Eight-thousander
Encyclopedia
The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountain
s on Earth
that are more than 8000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level
. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram
mountain ranges in Asia
.
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery
, and J. Norman Collie
to Nanga Parbat
in the territory of Kashmir (in present day Pakistan Administered Kashmir) in 1895; this attempt failed as Mummery and two Gurkha
s, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.
The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog
and Louis Lachenal
, who reached the summit of Annapurna
on June 3, 1950.
The first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders was Reinhold Messner
. He completed this task on October 16, 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka
became the second climber to accomplish this feat. , a total of 26 people have summitted all 14 peaks undisputed. This is an extremely hazardous feat; at least four people have died while in pursuit of this goal. Phurba Tashi
of Nepal has completed the most climbs of the eight-thousanders, with 26 ascents between 1998 and 2011. Juanito Oiarzabal
has completed the second most, with a total of 25 times from 1985 to 2011.
The countries with the highest number of climbers that have climbed all fourteen eight-thousanders are Italy
and South Korea
, with 4 climbers each, and Kazakhstan
, Poland
and Spain
with 3 climbers each. The first woman who claimed to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders was Oh Eun-Sun
of South Korea, stating she completed the set by summiting Annapurna on April 27, 2010. Doubts about this claim have been raised by several parties and an inquiry by the Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) declared her summit claim for Kangchenjunga
2009 "unlikely". Their doubts add to those previously brought forward by rival Edurne Pasaban
, which moved Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley
in the spring of 2010 to tag the summit as “disputed.". Later in 2010, Edurne Pasaban
was declared the first woman to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders.
* As of September 2003, data from Chinese National Geography
, august 2006, page 77 (the column "first ascensionist(s) in winter" has different sources).
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
s on Earth
Earth
Earth is the third planet from the Sun, and the densest and fifth-largest of the eight planets in the Solar System. It is also the largest of the Solar System's four terrestrial planets...
that are more than 8000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level
Sea level
Mean sea level is a measure of the average height of the ocean's surface ; used as a standard in reckoning land elevation...
. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram
Karakoram
The Karakoram, or Karakorum , is a large mountain range spanning the borders between Pakistan, India and China, located in the regions of Gilgit-Baltistan , Ladakh , and Xinjiang region,...
mountain ranges in Asia
Asia
Asia is the world's largest and most populous continent, located primarily in the eastern and northern hemispheres. It covers 8.7% of the Earth's total surface area and with approximately 3.879 billion people, it hosts 60% of the world's current human population...
.
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery
Albert F. Mummery
Albert Frederick Mummery , was an English mountaineer and author. Although most notable for his many and varied first ascents put up in the Alps, Mummery, along with J...
, and J. Norman Collie
J. Norman Collie
John Norman Collie FRS , commonly referred to as J. Norman Collie, was a British scientist, mountaineer, and explorer.- Life and work :He was born in Alderley Edge, Cheshire, the second of four sons...
to Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan and among the eight-thousanders with a summit elevation of 8,126 meters...
in the territory of Kashmir (in present day Pakistan Administered Kashmir) in 1895; this attempt failed as Mummery and two Gurkha
Gurkha
Gurkha are people from Nepal who take their name from the Gorkha District. Gurkhas are best known for their history in the Indian Army's Gorkha regiments, the British Army's Brigade of Gurkhas and the Nepalese Army. Gurkha units are closely associated with the kukri, a forward-curving Nepalese knife...
s, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.
The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog
Maurice Herzog
Maurice Herzog is a French mountaineer and sports administrator who was born in Lyon, France. He led the expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m, Annapurna, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling book about the expedition...
and Louis Lachenal
Louis Lachenal
Louis Lachenal , a French climber born in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, was one of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters. On 3 June 1950, along with Maurice Herzog, he reached the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 8,091 m...
, who reached the summit of Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
on June 3, 1950.
The first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders was Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol "whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history." He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without...
. He completed this task on October 16, 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka
Jerzy Kukuczka
Jerzy Kukuczka , born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On 18 September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world....
became the second climber to accomplish this feat. , a total of 26 people have summitted all 14 peaks undisputed. This is an extremely hazardous feat; at least four people have died while in pursuit of this goal. Phurba Tashi
Phurba Tashi
Phurba Tashi Sherpa Mendewa is a famous Everest climber. Together with Juanito Oiarzabal, he is the person with most total ascents to eight-thousanders, with 28. http://www.alpenglowexpeditions.com/about-us/phurba-tashi These include 19 ascents on Mt. Everest, 5 on Cho Oyo, 2 over Manasulu, and one...
of Nepal has completed the most climbs of the eight-thousanders, with 26 ascents between 1998 and 2011. Juanito Oiarzabal
Juanito Oiarzabal
Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer and has written four books on the subject. He was the sixth man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits, and the fourth in reaching them without supplementary oxygen...
has completed the second most, with a total of 25 times from 1985 to 2011.
The countries with the highest number of climbers that have climbed all fourteen eight-thousanders are Italy
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...
and South Korea
South Korea
The Republic of Korea , , is a sovereign state in East Asia, located on the southern portion of the Korean Peninsula. It is neighbored by the People's Republic of China to the west, Japan to the east, North Korea to the north, and the East China Sea and Republic of China to the south...
, with 4 climbers each, and Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan , officially the Republic of Kazakhstan, is a transcontinental country in Central Asia and Eastern Europe. Ranked as the ninth largest country in the world, it is also the world's largest landlocked country; its territory of is greater than Western Europe...
, Poland
Poland
Poland , officially the Republic of Poland , is a country in Central Europe bordered by Germany to the west; the Czech Republic and Slovakia to the south; Ukraine, Belarus and Lithuania to the east; and the Baltic Sea and Kaliningrad Oblast, a Russian exclave, to the north...
and Spain
Spain
Spain , officially the Kingdom of Spain languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Spain's official name is as follows:;;;;;;), is a country and member state of the European Union located in southwestern Europe on the Iberian Peninsula...
with 3 climbers each. The first woman who claimed to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders was Oh Eun-Sun
Oh Eun-Sun
Oh Eun-Sun is a South Korean female mountaineer. She is the first Korean woman to climb the Seven Summits...
of South Korea, stating she completed the set by summiting Annapurna on April 27, 2010. Doubts about this claim have been raised by several parties and an inquiry by the Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) declared her summit claim for Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
2009 "unlikely". Their doubts add to those previously brought forward by rival Edurne Pasaban
Edurne Pasaban
Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque Spanish mountaineer, from the province of Gipuzkoa in the Basque Country. On May 17, 2010, she became the 21st person and the first woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World...
, which moved Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley
Elizabeth Hawley
"Miss Hawley" redirects here. For other people of the same name see Hawley.Elizabeth Hawley is an American former journalist and chronicler of Himalayan expeditions. She traveled to Nepal in September 1960 and never left.She was educated at the University of Michigan...
in the spring of 2010 to tag the summit as “disputed.". Later in 2010, Edurne Pasaban
Edurne Pasaban
Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque Spanish mountaineer, from the province of Gipuzkoa in the Basque Country. On May 17, 2010, she became the 21st person and the first woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World...
was declared the first woman to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders.
List of eight-thousanders
Peak | Height | Location | First ascent | First ascensionist(s) | First ascent in winter | First ascensionist(s) in winter | Ascents | Deaths | Death rate | Death rate before 1990* |
Death rate since 1990* |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Everest Mount Everest Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point... |
8848 m (29,029 ft) | China China Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture... / Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
29 May 1953 | Edmund Hillary Edmund Hillary Sir Edmund Percival Hillary, KG, ONZ, KBE , was a New Zealand mountaineer, explorer and philanthropist. On 29 May 1953 at the age of 33, he and Sherpa mountaineer Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers known to have reached the summit of Mount Everest – see Timeline of climbing Mount Everest... Tenzing Norgay Tenzing Norgay Padma Bhushan, Supradipta-Manyabara-Nepal-Tara Tenzing Norgay, GM born Namgyal Wangdi and often referred to as Sherpa Tenzing, was a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer... |
17 Feb 1980 |
Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki is a Polish retired alpine and high-altitude climber. He is the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse in the winter. He is a member of The Explorers Club... Leszek Cichy Leszek Cichy Leszek Cichy is a Polish mountaineer, geodesist, financier, and entrepreneur. He was born in Pruszków, Poland on November 14, 1951. He is best known for making the first winter ascent of Mount Everest together with Krzysztof Wielicki in 1980 which established the winter ascent record of 8,848 meters... |
3684 | 210 | 5.70% | 37% | 4.4% |
K2 K2 K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest... |
8611 m (28,251 ft) | China China Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture... / Pakistan Pakistan Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan... |
31 Jul 1954 | Achille Compagnoni Achille Compagnoni Achille Compagnoni was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Lino Lacedelli, on 31 July 1954 he was the first man to reach the summit of K2.-Biography:... Lino Lacedelli Lino Lacedelli Lino Lacedelli was an Italian mountaineer.-Early life:Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo .... |
284 | 66 | 23.24% | 41% | 19.7% | ||
Kangchenjunga Kangchenjunga Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over... |
8586 m (28,169 ft) | Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... / India India India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world... |
25 May 1955 | George Band George Band George Christopher Band OBE ) was an English mountaineer.Band was born in Taiwan and educated at Eltham College... Joe Brown Joe Brown (climber) Joseph Brown, CBE is an English climber, born the seventh and last child of a family in the Manchester suburb of Ardwick. He became famous for climbing during the 1950s, and was a member of the Valkyrie climbing club and founding member of the Rock and Ice climbing club. An early climbing partner... |
11 Jan 1986 | Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki is a Polish retired alpine and high-altitude climber. He is the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse in the winter. He is a member of The Explorers Club... Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka , born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On 18 September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world.... |
209 | 40 | 21.4% | 21% | 22% |
Lhotse Lhotse Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is... |
8516 m (27,940 ft) | China China Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture... / Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
18 May 1956 | Fritz Luchsinger Fritz Luchsinger Fritz Luchsinger was a Swiss mountaineer. Together with Ernst Reiss he made the first ascent of Lhotse , the fourth highest mountain in the world, on 18 May 1956... Ernst Reiss Ernst Reiss Ernst Reiss was a Swiss mountaineer, who together with Fritz Luchsinger was the first to climb the fourth highest mountain on earth in 1956.... |
31 Dec 1988 | Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki is a Polish retired alpine and high-altitude climber. He is the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse in the winter. He is a member of The Explorers Club... |
221 | 11 | 3.43% | 14% | 2% |
Makalu Makalu Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China... |
8485 m (27,838 ft) | China China Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture... / Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
15 May 1955 | Jean Couzy Jean Couzy Jean Couzy was a French mountaineer. He studied aeronautical engineering at the École Polytechnique. At age 27, he was a member of Maurice Herzog's 1950 expedition to Annapurna. Prior to this, his usual climbing partner was Marcel Schatz, another member of the expedition... Lionel Terray Lionel Terray Lionel Terray was a French climber who made many first ascents, including Makalu in the Himalaya and Cerro Fitzroy in the Patagonian Andes .... |
09 Feb 2009 | Simone Moro Simone Moro Simone Moro is an Italian alpinist. He has climbed several 8000m peaks without using supplementary oxygen. - Early life :... Denis Urubko Denis Urubko Denis Urubko is a mountaineer from Kazakhstan with Russian descent. In 2009, he became the 15th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.... |
234 | 26 | 11.11% | 16% | 8.5% |
Cho Oyu Cho Oyu Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal... |
8201 m (26,906 ft) | China China Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture... / Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
19 Oct 1954 | Joseph Joechler Pasang Dawa Lama Herbert Tichy Herbert Tichy Herbert Tichy was an Austrian author, geologist, journalist and climber.-Biography:In 1933 Tichy travelled with a motorcycle from Austria to India... |
12 Feb 1985 | Maciej Berbeka Maciej Berbeka Maciej Berbeka is a Polish mountaineer.On January 14, 1984, together with Ryszard Gajewski he made the first winter ascent of Manaslu.On February 12, 1985, together with Maciej Pawlikowski he made the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu.... Maciej Pawlikowski Maciej Pawlikowski Maciej Pawlikowski is a Polish mountaineer. He is best known for the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu together with Maciej Berbeka on February 12, 1985. He is also the current president of the Zakopane Mountaineering Club.-External links:**... |
2668 | 39 | 1.46% | ||
Dhaulagiri I Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition.... |
8167 m (26,795 ft) | Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
13 May 1960 | Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent... Peter Diener Nawang Dorje Nima Dorje Ernst Forrer Albin Schelbert |
21 Jan 1985 | Andrzej Czok Andrzej Czok Andrzej Czok was a Polish mountaineer best known for the first winter ascent of Dhaulagiri on January 21, 1985 with Jerzy Kukuczka and for the first ascent of Mount Everest through North Pillar in 1980 . He died while making a winter attempt on Kangchenjunga.-References:*... Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka , born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On 18 September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world.... |
358 | 58 | 16.20% | 31% | 11% |
Manaslu Manaslu Manaslu , also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, and is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. Its name, which means "Mountain of the Spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul"... |
8163 m (26,781 ft) | Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
9 May 1956 | Toshio Imanishi Gyalzen Norbu |
14 Jan 1984 | Maciej Berbeka Maciej Berbeka Maciej Berbeka is a Polish mountaineer.On January 14, 1984, together with Ryszard Gajewski he made the first winter ascent of Manaslu.On February 12, 1985, together with Maciej Pawlikowski he made the first winter ascent of Cho Oyu.... Ryszard Gajewski Ryszard Gajewski Ryszard Gajewski is a Polish mountaineer best known for the first winter ascent of Manaslu on January 12, 1984 together with Maciej Berbeka.- Eight-thousanders :* Manaslu with Maciej Berbeka... |
297 | 53 | 17.85% | 35.16% | 13.42% |
Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan and among the eight-thousanders with a summit elevation of 8,126 meters... |
8126 m (26,660 ft) | Pakistan Pakistan Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan... |
03 Jul 1953 | Hermann Buhl Hermann Buhl Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing... |
287 | 64 | 22.30% | 77% | 5.5% | ||
Annapurna I | 8091 m (26,545 ft) | Nepal Nepal Nepal , officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked sovereign state located in South Asia. It is located in the Himalayas and bordered to the north by the People's Republic of China, and to the south, east, and west by the Republic of India... |
03 Jun 1950 | Maurice Herzog Maurice Herzog Maurice Herzog is a French mountaineer and sports administrator who was born in Lyon, France. He led the expedition that first climbed a peak over 8000m, Annapurna, in 1950, and reached the summit with Louis Lachenal. Upon his return, he wrote a best-selling book about the expedition... Louis Lachenal Louis Lachenal Louis Lachenal , a French climber born in Annecy, Haute-Savoie, was one of the first two mountaineers to climb a summit of more than 8,000 meters. On 3 June 1950, along with Maurice Herzog, he reached the summit of Annapurna I in Nepal at a height of 8,091 m... |
03 Feb 1987 | Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka , born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On 18 September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world.... Artur Hajzer Artur Hajzer Artur Hajzer is a Polish mountaineer best known for the first winter ascent of Annapurna on February 3, 1987 together with Jerzy Kukuczka.... |
153 | 58 | 38% | 66% | 19.7% |
Gasherbrum I Gasherbrum I Gasherbrum I , also known as Hidden Peak or K5, is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya... (also known as Hidden Peak) |
8080 m (26,444 ft) | China/ Pakistan Pakistan Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan... |
05 Jul 1958 | Andrew Kauffman Pete Schoening Pete Schoening Peter K. Schoening was an American mountaineer. Schoening was one of two Americans to first successfully climb the Pakistani peak Gasherbrum I in 1958, and was one of the first to summit Mount Vinson in Antarctica in 1966. He was born July 30, 1927, in Seattle, Washington, and grew up in... |
265 | 25 | 9.43% | 15.5% | 8.75% | ||
Broad Peak Broad Peak Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :... |
8051 m (26,414 ft) | China/ Pakistan Pakistan Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan... |
09 Jun 1957 | Fritz Wintersteller Fritz Wintersteller Fritz Wintersteller is an Austrian mountaineer who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck in 1957.... Marcus Schmuck Marcus Schmuck Marcus Schmuck was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz... Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent... Hermann Buhl Hermann Buhl Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing... |
359 | 19 | 5.29% | 5% | 8.6% | ||
Gasherbrum II Gasherbrum II Gasherbrum II , also known as K4, is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Gilgit-Baltistan province, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China... |
8034 m (26,358 ft) | China/ Pakistan Pakistan Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan... |
07 Jul 1956 | Fritz Moravec Fritz Moravec Fritz Moravec was an Austrian mountaineer, author and famous alpinist.- Life :... Josef Larch Hans Willenpart |
02 Feb 2011 | Simone Moro Simone Moro Simone Moro is an Italian alpinist. He has climbed several 8000m peaks without using supplementary oxygen. - Early life :... Denis Urubko Denis Urubko Denis Urubko is a mountaineer from Kazakhstan with Russian descent. In 2009, he became the 15th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.... Cory Richards |
836 | 19 | 2.27% | 7.8% | 0.44% |
Shishapangma Shishapangma Xixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders... |
8027 m (26,335 ft) | China China Chinese civilization may refer to:* China for more general discussion of the country.* Chinese culture* Greater China, the transnational community of ethnic Chinese.* History of China* Sinosphere, the area historically affected by Chinese culture... |
2 May 1964 | Hsu Ching Chang Chun-yen Wang Fuzhou Wang Fuzhou Wang Fuzhou is a Chinese mountain climber.Fuzhou graduated from the Beijing Institute of Geology in 1958. He was elected to the Chinese Mountaineering Team... Chen San Cheng Tien-liang Wu Tsung-yue Sodnam Doji Migmar Trashi Doji Doji The doji is a commonly found pattern in a candlestick chart of financially traded assets . It is characterized by being small in length—meaning a small trading range—with an opening and closing price that are virtually equal.... Yonten |
14 Jan 2005 | Piotr Morawski Piotr Morawski Piotr Morawski was a Polish mountaineer. He was best known for making the first successful winter ascent together with Simone Moro of Shisha Pangma on January 14, 2005. Morawski died aged 32 during an international Dhaulagiri/Manaslu expedition in Nepal... Simone Moro Simone Moro Simone Moro is an Italian alpinist. He has climbed several 8000m peaks without using supplementary oxygen. - Early life :... |
274 | 23 | 8.39% | 2% | 16.8% |
* As of September 2003, data from Chinese National Geography
Chinese National Geography
Chinese National Geography is a Chinese monthly magazine similar to the National Geographic Magazine. Founded in 1949 in China, the magazine has revamped itself several times, and is now a popular magazine in mainland China...
, august 2006, page 77 (the column "first ascensionist(s) in winter" has different sources).
Verified climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders
Field 02 lists people who have peaked all 14 without bottled oxygen. Order accomplished |
All without O2 (order) |
Name | Period | born | at age | Nationality |
|
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 1 | Reinhold Messner Reinhold Messner Reinhold Messner is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol "whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history." He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without... |
1970–1986 | 1944 | 42 | Italian | |
2 | Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka Jerzy Kukuczka , born in Katowice, Poland, was a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. On 18 September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world.... |
1979–1987 | 1948 | 39 | Polish | ||
3 | 2 | Erhard Loretan Erhard Loretan Erhard Loretan was a Swiss mountain climber.Loretan was born in Bulle in the canton of Fribourg. He trained as a cabinet-maker and mountain guide and began his climbing career at the age of 11... |
1982–1995 | 1959 | 36 | Swiss | |
4 | Carlos Carsolio Carlos Carsolio Carlos Carsolio Larrea is a Mexican mountain climber. Carsolio is known for being the fourth man and the second youngest to climb the world's 14 eight-thousander mountain peaks, all of them without supplementary oxygen .- Early years :Carsolio, the eldest of... |
1985–1996 | 1962 | 33 | Mexican | ||
5 | Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki Krzysztof Wielicki is a Polish retired alpine and high-altitude climber. He is the fifth man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders and the first ever to climb Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse in the winter. He is a member of The Explorers Club... |
1980–1996 | 1950 | 46 | Polish | ||
6 | 3 | Juanito Oiarzabal Juanito Oiarzabal Juan Eusebio Oiarzabal Urteaga commonly known as Juanito Oiarzabal is a noted Spanish Basque mountaineer and has written four books on the subject. He was the sixth man to reach all 14 eight-thousander summits, and the fourth in reaching them without supplementary oxygen... |
1985–1999 | 1956 | 43 | Spanish | |
7 | Sergio Martini Sergio Martini Sergio Martini is an Italian mountaineer. In the year 2000, he became the 7th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. He did so during the period 1983-2000. He was 51 years of age when he reached the final of the fourteen summits.-References:... |
1983–2000 | 1949 | 51 | Italian | ||
8 | Park Young-Seok Park Young Seok Park Young-Seok is a South Korean mountaineer. He is the first person in the world who completed a true Adventure Grand Slam. He has climbed the world's 14 Eight-thousanders, the Seven Summits, and visited both poles... |
1993–2001 | 1963 | 38 | Korean | ||
9 | Um Hong-Gil Um Hong-Gil Um Hong-Gil is a South Korean climber.He has led many South Korean summer expeditions to Mt Aconcagua in Argentina, where he has successfully climbed South America's highest mountain many times.... |
1988–2001 | 1960 | 40 | Korean | ||
10 | 4 | Alberto Iñurrategi Alberto Iñurrategi Alberto Iñurrategi is an Spanish mountaineer born in Arechavaleta, Guipúzcoa, País Vasco , 3 November 1968. In the year 2002, he became the second Spaniard and 10th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.... |
1991-2002 | 1968 | 33 | Spanish | |
11 | Han Wang-Yong Han Wang-Yong Han Wang-Yong is an Korean mountaineer. In the year 2003, he became the 11th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. Since then he has led expeditions to clean rubbish left by other climbers from the slopes of K2 and Everest.-References:... |
1994–2003 | 1966 | 37 | Korean | ||
12 | 5 | Ed Viesturs Ed Viesturs Edmund Viesturs, known as Ed Viesturs is one of the world's premier high-altitude mountaineers. He is one of only 26 people and the only one from the United States to have climbed all eight-thousander peaks... |
1989–2005 | 1959 | 46 | American | |
13 | 6 | Silvio Mondinelli Silvio Mondinelli Silvio Mondinelli , is an Italian mountaineer. In the year 2007, he became the 13th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders. He is the 6th person to accomplish that feat without the use of supplementary oxygen... |
1993–2007 | 1958 | 49 | Italian | |
14 | 7 | Ivan Vallejo Ivan Vallejo Iván Vallejo Ricaurte is a mountaineer from Ecuador. On May 1, 2008, he finished his "Desafio 14" – a personal quest for reaching the summit of all 14 mountains above 8,000 m , without the use of supplemental oxygen.... |
1997–2008 | 1959 | 49 | Ecuador | |
15 | 8 | Denis Urubko Denis Urubko Denis Urubko is a mountaineer from Kazakhstan with Russian descent. In 2009, he became the 15th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders.... |
2000–2009 | 1973 | 35 | Kazakhstan | |
16 | Ralf Dujmovits Ralf Dujmovits Ralf Dujmovits is a German mountaineer. On 20 May 2009 he reached the summit of Lhotse, becoming the 16th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders... |
1990–2009 | 1961 | 47 | German | ||
17 | 9 | Veikka Gustafsson Veikka Gustafsson Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson, known as Veikka Gustafsson is a Finnish mountaineer. He was born in Espoo and he has three siblings, Elina, Erkki and Esa. His family bought a cabin in Tuupovaara and they moved there in 1976. In 1993 Veikka became the first Finnish person to have reached the top of... |
1993–2009 | 1968 | 41 | Finnish | |
18 | Andrew Lock Andrew Lock Andrew James Lock OAM is Australia’s most accomplished high altitude mountaineer. He completed his personal mountaineering project to be the first Australian to climb all fourteen "eight-thousanders" in October 2009. In all he has climbed all 14 8000m peaks, with 18 personal 8000 metre summits,... |
1993–2009 | 1961 | 48 | Australian | ||
19 | 10 | João Garcia João Garcia João José Silva Abranches Garcia, is a leading mountaineer in Portugal. His main professional activities are as organizer and guide in mountaineering expeditions. On May 18, 1999, he became the first Portuguese man to reach the summit of Mount Everest, without the use of supplementary oxygen... |
1993–2010 | 1967 | 43 | Portuguese | |
20 | Piotr Pustelnik Piotr Pustelnik Piotr Pustelnik is a Polish alpine and high-altitude climber. He is the 20th man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders.- Major ascents :-External links:* * *... |
1990–2010 | 1951 | 58 | Polish | ||
21 | Edurne Pasaban Edurne Pasaban Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar is a Basque Spanish mountaineer, from the province of Gipuzkoa in the Basque Country. On May 17, 2010, she became the 21st person and the first woman to climb all of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the World... |
2001–2010 | 1973 | 36 | Spanish | ||
22 | Abele Blanc | 1992–2011 | 1954 | 56 | Italian | ||
23 | Mingma Sherpa | 2000–2011 | 1978 | 33 | Nepal | ||
24 | 11 | Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders, and the first woman to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen.... |
1998–2011 | 1970 | 40 | Austria | |
25 | Vassily Pivtsov | 2001–2011 | 1975 | 36 | Kazakhstan | ||
26 | 12 | Maxut Zhumayev | 2001–2011 | 1977 | 34 | Kazakhstan | |
27 | Kim Jae-Soo | 2000–2011 | 1951 | 50 | Korean | ||
Disputed
Disputes occur when not enough evidence was provided to claim the climb up to the highest peak.Name | Period | born | at age | Nationality |
---|---|---|---|---|
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997) | 1983–1998 | 1952 | 46 | Italy |
Alan Hinkes Alan Hinkes Alan Hinkes OBE is an English mountaineer from Northallerton in North Yorkshire. Hinkes is the first British mountaineer to have summited all 14 mountains with elevations greater than 8000 metres, the so-called Eight-thousanders; however, this claim is disputed.He was awarded an Honorary... (Cho Oyu 1990) |
1987–2005 | 1954 | 53 | British |
Vladislav Terzyul Vladislav Terzyul Vladyslav Terzyul , born in Artyom, Siberia, was one of the world's premier high-altitude climbers.He is said to be one of the few people to have climbed all eight-thousander peaks and the first Ukrainian ever, but this claim is disputed.Vladislav Terzyul died descending from the summit of Makalu... |
1993-2002 (deceased) | 1953 | 49 | Ukrainian |
Oh Eun-Sun Oh Eun-Sun Oh Eun-Sun is a South Korean female mountaineer. She is the first Korean woman to climb the Seven Summits... |
1997–2010 | 1966 | 44 | Korean |
See also
- List of highest mountains
- List of deaths on eight-thousanders
- Seven SummitsSeven SummitsThe Seven Summits are the highest mountains of each of the seven continents. Summiting all of them is regarded as a mountaineering challenge, first postulated as such and achieved on April 30, 1985 by Richard Bass .-Definition:...
- Seven Second SummitsSeven Second SummitsThe Seven Second Summits are the second highest mountains of each of the seven continents. All of these mountain peaks are separate peaks rather than a sub-peak of the continents' high point...
- Volcanic Seven SummitsVolcanic Seven SummitsThe Volcanic Seven Summits are the highest volcanoes on each of the seven continents, just as the Seven Summits are the highest peaks on each of the seven continents...
- Three Poles ChallengeThree Poles ChallengeThe Three Poles is an adventurer’s challenge to reach all three of the North Pole, the South Pole, and Mount Everest.The Norwegian explorer Erling Kagge was the first in recorded history to accomplish this challenge in 1994. Kagge reached the North Pole on May 8 1990 with Børge Ousland; the South...
- Explorers Grand SlamExplorers Grand SlamThe Explorers Grand Slam or Adventurers Grand Slam is an adventurers challenge to reach the North Pole, the South Pole and all of the Seven Summits....
, also known as The Adventurers Grand Slam