Broad Peak
Encyclopedia
Broad Peak is the 12th highest mountain
on Earth
, with an elevation of 8,051 meters (26,414 ft). The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri (ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་) is not accepted among the Balti people
.
massif
on the border of Pakistan
and China
. It is located about 8 kilometres (5 mi) from K2
. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometre (0.93205910497471 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".
of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller
, Marcus Schmuck
, Kurt Diemberger
, and Hermann Buhl
of an Austria
n expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent
of Skil Brum
peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style
in 53 hours.
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa
peak (7,654 m) on June 27, 1957.
The summit of Broad Peak has been descended on skis.
In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak with the aim of retrieving the corpse of Markus Kronthaler
, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.
In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna
.
Mountain
Image:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|The Himalayan mountain range with Mount Everestrect 58 14 160 49 Chomo Lonzorect 200 28 335 52 Makalurect 378 24 566 45 Mount Everestrect 188 581 920 656 Tibetan Plateaurect 250 406 340 427 Rong River...
on Earth
Earth
Earth is the third planet from the Sun, and the densest and fifth-largest of the eight planets in the Solar System. It is also the largest of the Solar System's four terrestrial planets...
, with an elevation of 8,051 meters (26,414 ft). The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri (ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་) is not accepted among the Balti people
Balti people
The Balti are an ethnic group of Tibetan descent with some Dardic admixture located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Ladakh, a region in Jammu & Kashmir, India; as well as scattered in Pakistan's major urban centres of Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad/Rawalpindi. The Balti language belongs to the...
.
Geography
Broad Peak is part of the GasherbrumGasherbrum
Gasherbrum is a remote group of peaks located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya on the border of the Chinese Shaksgam Valley and the Gilgit-Baltistan territory of Pakistan. The massif contains three of the world's 8,000 metre peaks...
massif
Massif
In geology, a massif is a section of a planet's crust that is demarcated by faults or flexures. In the movement of the crust, a massif tends to retain its internal structure while being displaced as a whole...
on the border of Pakistan
Pakistan
Pakistan , officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan is a sovereign state in South Asia. It has a coastline along the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Oman in the south and is bordered by Afghanistan and Iran in the west, India in the east and China in the far northeast. In the north, Tajikistan...
and China
People's Republic of China
China , officially the People's Republic of China , is the most populous country in the world, with over 1.3 billion citizens. Located in East Asia, the country covers approximately 9.6 million square kilometres...
. It is located about 8 kilometres (5 mi) from K2
K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...
. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometre (0.93205910497471 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".
Climbing history
The first ascentFirst ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller
Fritz Wintersteller is an Austrian mountaineer who made the first ascent of Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck in 1957....
, Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck
Marcus Schmuck was an Austrian mountaineer. In 1957, together with Hermann Buhl he organized the expedition, firstly envisaged and initiated by Hermann Buhl, to climb the worlds 12th highest peak, the Broad Peak in the Karakoram in Pakistan. The other members of the expedition were: Fritz...
, Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger
Kurt Diemberger is an accomplished Austrian mountaineer and author of several books.-Career:As of 2008, Kurt Diemberger is the only remaining person alive that made the first ascents on two mountains over 8,000 metres. In 1957, he made the first ascent of Broad Peak and in 1960, the first ascent...
, and Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl
Hermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
of an Austria
Austria
Austria , officially the Republic of Austria , is a landlocked country of roughly 8.4 million people in Central Europe. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Slovakia and Hungary to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the...
n expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
of Skil Brum
Skil Brum
Skil Brum, or Skilbrum, is a mountain in the Karakoram range in Northern Areas of Pakistan, approximately 9 km west-southwest of K2. It lies on the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, roughly opposite Broad Peak....
peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style
Alpine style
Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure...
in 53 hours.
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Chogolisa is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face rises to...
peak (7,654 m) on June 27, 1957.
The summit of Broad Peak has been descended on skis.
In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak with the aim of retrieving the corpse of Markus Kronthaler
Markus Kronthaler
Markus Kronthaler was an Austrian mountaineer and climber.Kronthaler was born in Kufstein, Tyrol. He was an officer in the alpine section of Austria's Gendarmerie, which he left in 2003 to become a professional climber...
, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.
In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna
Cristina Castagna
Cristina "El Grio" Castagna was an Italian mountaineer and the first Italian woman on Makalu.Castagna was born in San Quirico di Valdagno...
.
Time line
- 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of GermanyGermanyGermany , officially the Federal Republic of Germany , is a federal parliamentary republic in Europe. The country consists of 16 states while the capital and largest city is Berlin. Germany covers an area of 357,021 km2 and has a largely temperate seasonal climate...
on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold. - 1957 First ascent
- 1994 On July 9, Carlos CarsolioCarlos CarsolioCarlos Carsolio Larrea is a Mexican mountain climber. Carsolio is known for being the fourth man and the second youngest to climb the world's 14 eight-thousander mountain peaks, all of them without supplementary oxygen .- Early years :Carsolio, the eldest of...
got the summit establishing a new solo route, now known as Route Carsolio. The summit of Broad Peak would be the ninth of his career-high of eight-thousanders.
See also
- List of mountains in Pakistan
- Highest Mountains of the World
- List of Austrian mountaineers
- Hassan sadparaHassan SadparaHassan Sadpara is a Pakistani adventurer from a small village, named Sadpara, 7 kilometres from Skardu. He is the first Pakistani to have climbed six eight-thousanders: K2 , Gasherbrum I , Gasherbrum II , Nanga Parbat , Broad Peak , and Mount Everest . He climbed five peaks without supplemental...
Further reading
- Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
- Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann BuhlHermann BuhlHermann Buhl is considered one of the best climbers of all time. He was particularly innovative in applying alpine style to Himalayan climbing...
, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart. - Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0898864089
- Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterward by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
- Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan JelinčičDušan JelinčičDušan Jelinčič is an Slovene writer, essayist and mountaineer from Trieste, Italy.He was born in an influential Slovene intellectual family in Trieste; his father, Zorko Jelinčič, was among the co-founders of the militant anti-fascist organization TIGR, and a close personal friend of prominent...
, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8 - Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5