Veikka Gustafsson
Encyclopedia
Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson, known as Veikka Gustafsson (born 14 January 1968) is a Finnish mountaineer
Mountaineer
-Sports:*Mountaineering, the sport, hobby or profession of walking, hiking, trekking and climbing up mountains, also known as alpinism-University athletic teams and mascots:*Appalachian State Mountaineers, the athletic teams of Appalachian State University...

. He was born in Espoo
Espoo
Espoo is the second largest city and municipality in Finland. The population of the city of Espoo is . It is part of the Helsinki Metropolitan Area along with the cities of Helsinki, Vantaa, and Kauniainen. Espoo shares its eastern border with Helsinki and Vantaa, while enclosing Kauniainen....

 and he has three siblings, Elina, Erkki and Esa. His family bought a cabin in Tuupovaara
Tuupovaara
Tuupovaara is a former municipality of Finland, located in the province of Eastern Finland. It was consolidated, together with Kiihtelysvaara, to municipality of Joensuu on January 1, 2005. The municipality had a population of 2,176 and covered an area of 661.34 km² of which 56.55 km² is water...

 and they moved there in 1976. In 1993 Veikka became the first Finnish person to have reached the top of Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

. In the spring of 1997, he also became the first Finn to have reached the summit without the use of bottled oxygen
Oxygen
Oxygen is the element with atomic number 8 and represented by the symbol O. Its name derives from the Greek roots ὀξύς and -γενής , because at the time of naming, it was mistakenly thought that all acids required oxygen in their composition...

. He is one of only 10 persons to have ascended all 14 eight-thousander
Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia....

s in the world without the use of supplemental oxygen.

8000 m+ mountains summited

He set his mind and body to conquer all the summits of the 14 mountains over 8000 metres
Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent mountains on Earth that are more than high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia....

, without the use of bottled oxygen. As of 2009-07-26 he reached his goal. The summits are as follow:
  • Mount Everest
    Mount Everest
    Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

     (8850 m), spring 1993, with bottled oxygen
  • Dhaulagiri
    Dhaulagiri
    Dhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....

     (8167 m), fall 1993
  • K2
    K2
    K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest...

     (8611 m), summer 1994
  • Lhotse
    Lhotse
    Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...

     (8501 m), spring 1995
  • Makalu
    Makalu
    Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...

     (8483 m), spring 1995
  • Mount Everest
    Mount Everest
    Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

     (8850 m), spring 1997, without bottled oxygen
  • Manaslu
    Manaslu
    Manaslu , also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world, and is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. Its name, which means "Mountain of the Spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul"...

     (8163 m), spring 1999
  • Dhaulagiri
    Dhaulagiri
    Dhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....

     (8167 m), spring 1999
  • Shishapangma
    Shishapangma
    Xixabangma, frequently spelled Shishapangma or Shisha Pangma , also called Gosainthān , is the fourteenth-highest mountain in the world and, at 8,013 m , the lowest of the eight-thousanders...

     (8046 m), spring 2001
  • Nanga Parbat
    Nanga Parbat
    Nanga Parbat is the ninth highest mountain on Earth, the second highest mountain in Pakistan and among the eight-thousanders with a summit elevation of 8,126 meters...

     (8125 m), summer 2001
  • Mount Everest
    Mount Everest
    Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

     (8850 m), spring 2004
  • Cho Oyu
    Cho Oyu
    Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...

     (8201 m), 2005-04-22
  • Annapurna
    Annapurna
    Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....

     (8091 m), 2005-05-12
  • Kanchenjunga (8586 m), 2006-05-14
  • Gasherbrum II
    Gasherbrum II
    Gasherbrum II , also known as K4, is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Gilgit-Baltistan province, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China...

     (8035 m), 2008-07-08
  • Broad Peak
    Broad Peak
    Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...

     (8047 m), 2008-07-31
  • Gasherbrum I
    Gasherbrum I
    Gasherbrum I , also known as Hidden Peak or K5, is the 11th highest peak on Earth, located on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan and Xinjiang region of China. Gasherbrum I is part of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram region of the Himalaya...

     (8080 m), 2009-07-26

Other notable ascents/attempts

In the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....

:
  • Frendo ridge
  • Bonatti pillar
  • Les Courtes, north wall (Swiss route)


In the Pamir
Pamir Mountains
The Pamir Mountains are a mountain range in Central Asia formed by the junction or knot of the Himalayas, Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kunlun, and Hindu Kush ranges. They are among the world’s highest mountains and since Victorian times they have been known as the "Roof of the World" a probable...

:
  • Pik Kommunisma (7495 m) and Pik Korsenevskaja (7105 m), summer 1993
  • Pik Kommunisma (7495 m). Basecamp to basecamp in 36 h.


In the Himalayas
Himalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...

:
  • Mount Everest
    Mount Everest
    Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...

     (8850 m), spring 1996. Reached 7500 m.
  • Annapurna
    Annapurna
    Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....

     (8091 m), spring 2000. Failed to summit.
  • Annapurna
    Annapurna
    Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....

     (8091 m), spring 2002. Reached 7300 m.
  • Kangchenjunga
    Kangchenjunga
    Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...

     (8 586 m), spring 2003. Reached 7100 m.


Elsewhere:
  • Mount Vinson (5140m), winter 1996. The tallest mountain in Antarctica.
  • Four first ascents on the Antarctica, winter 1997. Summited Mount Gardner
    Mount Gardner
    Mount Gardner is a mountain standing 1.5 nautical miles west of Mount Tyree in the W-central part of the Sentinel Range, Ellsworth Mountains. Discovered by the Marie Byrd Land Traverse party, 1957–58, under C.R. Bentley. Named by Advisory Committee on Antarctic Names for Lieutenant Harvey L....

     (4587 m) and an unnamed peak, later unofficially named Mount Sisu
    Mount Sisu
    Mount Sisu is a mountain in the Antarctic. Finnish mountaineer Veikka Gustafsson and Patrick Degerman were the first people to ascend it, in 1997. It was named after the Finnish concept of sisu, meaning a sense of steadfast, rugged perseverance...

    (4300 m).
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