Simone Moro
Encyclopedia
Simone Moro is an Italian alpinist
. He has climbed several 8000m peaks without using supplementary oxygen
.
(Italy
) from a middle-class family, he grew up in the borough of Valtesse
, and was strongly supported by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a climber and biker at a high level and also created a lively and international environment around him [1]. He started climbing the Presolana
and other massifs of the Alpi Bergamasche at 13, however he continued his studies until graduating cum laude at the university.
. His father was his first Mentor followed by Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi [2]. In this period he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity that has never left. In 1992 he participated to his first Himalayan expedition to Mount Everest
. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua
, achieving the first winter summit of that peak. During his career he has attempted a number of mountains including Cerro Mirador and Makalu
in 1993; Shisha Pangma and summited Lhotse
in 1994, Kangchenjunga
in 1995; Fitz Roy, Dhaulagiri
and summited Shisha Pangma in 1996; summited again Lhotse in 1997 and tried Annapurna
in December 1997 (avalanche buried his guide from Kazakhstan Anatoli Boukreev
); tried Everest again in 1998; summited four peaks Pik Lenin (7134), Peak Korzhenevskaya
(7105), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7495, formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri
(7010) with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko
; then summited with him Everest in 2000 and Marble Wall in winter 2001; tried traverse Everest-Lhotse in 2001; summited three peaks: Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu
and Everest in 2002; summited three peaks: Broad Peak
, Elbrus and Kilimanjaro in 2003, summited Baruntse
along a new route and tried Shisha Pangma and Annapurna
in 2004; Batura and Batokshi peaks in 2005, Broad Peak
in winter 2006 and 2007. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shisha Pangma, with Piotr Morawski
. In 2006 he completed the solo, south-north traverse of Everest descending from the top in 4 hours .
Moro in 1996 climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3341m in Patagonia
) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. In 1996 he climbed Shisha Pangma South (8008m) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7100 meters. In Winter 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna
. During this attempt his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev
and Dimitri Sobolev were lost under an avalanche. In 2008 he achieved (with Herve Barmasse) the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6950 m Karakorum). The climbing was performed in pure alpine style
and in 43 hours.
In January 2009 Moro completed the first winter ascent of Makalu
with Denis Urubko
.http://www.alpinismonline.com/alp-notas.asp?id=10085
In February 2011 Moro completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II
with Denis Urubko
and Cory Richards.http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37883
In May 2001 during an attempt on the wall of Lhotse
at 8000 he abandoned the climb to search, rescue and save English alpinist Tom Moores.
Moro was recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO
, the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi
and the David A. Sowles Memorial Award
from the American Alpine Club
.
Alpinist
Alpinist is a quarterly American magazine focused on mountaineering ascents worldwide. It was originally published out of Jackson, Wyoming and was founded in 2002...
. He has climbed several 8000m peaks without using supplementary oxygen
Oxygen
Oxygen is the element with atomic number 8 and represented by the symbol O. Its name derives from the Greek roots ὀξύς and -γενής , because at the time of naming, it was mistakenly thought that all acids required oxygen in their composition...
.
Early life
Born in BergamoBergamo
Bergamo is a town and comune in Lombardy, Italy, about 40 km northeast of Milan. The comune is home to over 120,000 inhabitants. It is served by the Orio al Serio Airport, which also serves the Province of Bergamo, and to a lesser extent the metropolitan area of Milan...
(Italy
Italy
Italy , officially the Italian Republic languages]] under the European Charter for Regional or Minority Languages. In each of these, Italy's official name is as follows:;;;;;;;;), is a unitary parliamentary republic in South-Central Europe. To the north it borders France, Switzerland, Austria and...
) from a middle-class family, he grew up in the borough of Valtesse
Valtesse
Valtesse, located at is a borough of the city of Bergamo in the north part of the city between the hill of Città Alta and Maresana Hill. The population is approximately 10,000.-Overview:...
, and was strongly supported by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a climber and biker at a high level and also created a lively and international environment around him [1]. He started climbing the Presolana
Presolana
Presolana is a mountain located in Lombardy, northern Italy, about 35 km north of Bergamo. Part of the Bergamo Alps, it is included in the province of Bergamo, and divides the Val Seriana and Valle di Scalve....
and other massifs of the Alpi Bergamasche at 13, however he continued his studies until graduating cum laude at the university.
Mountain climbing career
Simone Moro began his climbing activity in the Grigne, near his home city, and in the DolomitesDolomites
The Dolomites are a mountain range located in north-eastern Italy. It is a part of Southern Limestone Alps and extends from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Valley in the east. The northern and southern borders are defined by the Puster Valley and the Sugana Valley...
. His father was his first Mentor followed by Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi [2]. In this period he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity that has never left. In 1992 he participated to his first Himalayan expedition to Mount Everest
Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at above sea level. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. The international boundary runs across the precise summit point...
. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua
Aconcagua
Aconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas at . It is located in the Andes mountain range, in the Argentine province of Mendoza and it lies west by north of its capital, the city of Mendoza. The summit is also located about 5 kilometres from San Juan Province and 15 kilometres from the...
, achieving the first winter summit of that peak. During his career he has attempted a number of mountains including Cerro Mirador and Makalu
Makalu
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...
in 1993; Shisha Pangma and summited Lhotse
Lhotse
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...
in 1994, Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
in 1995; Fitz Roy, Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....
and summited Shisha Pangma in 1996; summited again Lhotse in 1997 and tried Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
in December 1997 (avalanche buried his guide from Kazakhstan Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev, , was a Kazakhstani climber who made ascents of seven of the 8,000 metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. In total he made 18 successful ascents on peaks above 8000 m . Boukreev was lost under an avalanche on Annapurna...
); tried Everest again in 1998; summited four peaks Pik Lenin (7134), Peak Korzhenevskaya
Peak Korzhenevskaya
Peak Korzhenevskaya is the third highest peak in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan. It is one of the five "Snow Leopard Peaks" in the territory of theformer Soviet Union. It is named after Evgenia Korzhenevskaya, the wife of Russiangeographer Nikolai L...
(7105), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7495, formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri
Khan Tengri
Khan Tengri is a mountain of the Tian Shan mountain range. It is located on the China—Kyrgyzstan—Kazakhstan border, east of lake Issyk Kul. Its geologic elevation is , but its glacial cap rises to...
(7010) with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko is a mountaineer from Kazakhstan with Russian descent. In 2009, he became the 15th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders....
; then summited with him Everest in 2000 and Marble Wall in winter 2001; tried traverse Everest-Lhotse in 2001; summited three peaks: Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
and Everest in 2002; summited three peaks: Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
, Elbrus and Kilimanjaro in 2003, summited Baruntse
Baruntse
Baruntse is a mountain in the Khumbu region of eastern Nepal, crowned by four peaks and bounded on the south by the Hunku Glacier, on the east by the Barun Glacier, and on the northwest by the Imja Glacier...
along a new route and tried Shisha Pangma and Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
in 2004; Batura and Batokshi peaks in 2005, Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
in winter 2006 and 2007. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shisha Pangma, with Piotr Morawski
Piotr Morawski
Piotr Morawski was a Polish mountaineer. He was best known for making the first successful winter ascent together with Simone Moro of Shisha Pangma on January 14, 2005. Morawski died aged 32 during an international Dhaulagiri/Manaslu expedition in Nepal...
. In 2006 he completed the solo, south-north traverse of Everest descending from the top in 4 hours .
Moro in 1996 climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3341m in Patagonia
Patagonia
Patagonia is a region located in Argentina and Chile, integrating the southernmost section of the Andes mountains to the southwest towards the Pacific ocean and from the east of the cordillera to the valleys it follows south through Colorado River towards Carmen de Patagones in the Atlantic Ocean...
) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. In 1996 he climbed Shisha Pangma South (8008m) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7100 meters. In Winter 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna
Annapurna
Annapurna is a section of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes Annapurna I, thirteen additional peaks over and 16 more over ....
. During this attempt his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Boukreev
Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev, , was a Kazakhstani climber who made ascents of seven of the 8,000 metre peaks without supplemental oxygen. In total he made 18 successful ascents on peaks above 8000 m . Boukreev was lost under an avalanche on Annapurna...
and Dimitri Sobolev were lost under an avalanche. In 2008 he achieved (with Herve Barmasse) the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6950 m Karakorum). The climbing was performed in pure alpine style
Alpine style
Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure...
and in 43 hours.
In January 2009 Moro completed the first winter ascent of Makalu
Makalu
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at and is located southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and China...
with Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko is a mountaineer from Kazakhstan with Russian descent. In 2009, he became the 15th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders....
.http://www.alpinismonline.com/alp-notas.asp?id=10085
In February 2011 Moro completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II , also known as K4, is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located on the border of Gilgit-Baltistan province, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China...
with Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko
Denis Urubko is a mountaineer from Kazakhstan with Russian descent. In 2009, he became the 15th person to climb the 14 eight-thousanders....
and Cory Richards.http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37883
In May 2001 during an attempt on the wall of Lhotse
Lhotse
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...
at 8000 he abandoned the climb to search, rescue and save English alpinist Tom Moores.
Moro was recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO
UNESCO
The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization is a specialized agency of the United Nations...
, the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi
Carlo Azeglio Ciampi
dr. Carlo Azeglio Ciampi is an Italian politician and banker. He was the 73rd Prime Minister of Italy from 1993 to 1994 and was the tenth President of the Italian Republic from 1999 to 2006...
and the David A. Sowles Memorial Award
David A. Sowles Memorial Award
The David A. Sowles Memorial Award is the American Alpine Club's highest award for valour, bestowed at irregular intervals on mountaineers who have "distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers...
from the American Alpine Club
American Alpine Club
The American Alpine Club, or AAC, was founded in 1902 by Charles Ernest Fay, and is the leading national organization in the United States devoted to mountaineering, climbing, and the multitude of issues facing climbers...
.