Mixed climbing
Encyclopedia
Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing
and rock climbing
generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons
and ice tool
s. Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoe
s but feature built in crampons
. Dry-tooling
is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" onto itself.
Ice climbing
Ice climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending inclined ice formations. Usually, ice climbing refers to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with ice refrozen from flows of water. For the purposes of...
and rock climbing
Rock climbing
Rock climbing also lightly called 'The Gravity Game', is a sport in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling...
generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons
Crampons
Crampons are traction devices used to improve mobility on snow and ice. There are three main attachment systems for footwear: step-in, hybrid, and strap bindings. The first two require boots with welts, the last adapt to any type....
and ice tool
Ice tool
An ice tool is a specialized elaboration of the modern ice axe , used in ice climbing, mostly for the more difficult configurations...
s. Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoe
Climbing shoe
A climbing shoe is a specialized type of footwear designed for rock climbing. Typical climbing shoes have a close fit, little if any padding, and a smooth, sticky rubber sole with an extended rubber rand...
s but feature built in crampons
Crampons
Crampons are traction devices used to improve mobility on snow and ice. There are three main attachment systems for footwear: step-in, hybrid, and strap bindings. The first two require boots with welts, the last adapt to any type....
. Dry-tooling
Dry-tooling
Dry-tooling involves climbing rock with ice axes and crampons. It has its origins in mixed climbing, ice climbing and more recently sport climbing. Dry tooling is controversial among many climbers...
is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" onto itself.
Grading
Roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. Typically starts at M4. Subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are typically very subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the WI system and the Yosemite Decimal System. Comparing these is rough, and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is because it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.- M4 - 5.8 - WI4 - slabby to vertical, some technical drytooling
- M5 - 5.9 - WI5 - some sections of sustained drytooling
- M6 - 5.10 - WI6 - vertical to overhanging with some difficult drytooling
- M7 - 5.11 - WI7 - overhanging, powerful and technical drytooling, <10 m of "hard" climbing
- M8 - 5.11+ - bouldery or longer cruxes than M7, some horizontal overhangs
- M9 - 5.12- - vertical or steeper with sustained marginal or highly technical drytooling; or horizontal and juggy for up to a few body lengths.
- M10 - 5.12
- M11 - 5.12+
- M12 - 5.13-