Sol Duc River
Encyclopedia
The Sol Duc River is a river
in the U.S. state
of Washington. About 78 miles (125.5 km) long, it flows west through the northwest part of the Olympic Peninsula
, from the Olympic Mountains
of Olympic National Park
and Olympic National Forest
, then through the broad Sol Duc Valley. Near the Pacific Ocean
the Sol Duc River joins the Bogachiel River
, forming the Quillayute River
, which flows about 4 miles (6.4 km) to the Pacific Ocean
at La Push
. Although the Quillayute River is short, its large tributary rivers—the Sol Duc, Bogachiel, Calawah
, and Dickey River
s—drain the largest watershed
of the northern Olympic Peninsula, 629 square miles (1,629.1 km²). The Sol Duc's watershed is the largest of the Quillayute's tributaries, at 219 square miles (567.2 km²).
The Sol Duc River's main tributaries are its two forks, the North Fork Sol Duc River and the South Fork Sol Duc River. Other notable tributaries include Bear Creek, Beaver Creek, and Lake Creek.
Much of the Sol Duc River's watershed is valuable timber land. Most of the forests have been logged at least once. The forests within Olympic National Park are protected.
U.S. Route 101
follows the Sol Duc River for many miles through Olympic National Forest and the Sol Duc Valley to the vicinity of Forks
. The city of Forks is so named due to the close convergence of the Sol Duc, Bogachiel, and Calawah River
s.
, or streamflow
of the Sol Duc River has considerable seasonal variation. According to George Wuerthner, the river's average winter flow is 104.75 m3/s but its average summer flow is only 12.74 m3/s. Wuerthner cites slightly different annual streamflow figures than the Washington Department of Ecology. Also, Wuerthner uses metric units while Ecology uses imperial units. Wuerthner says the mean annual flow is 37 m3/s, Ecology says it is 1270 cuft/s. The maximum and minimum recorded discharges were, according to Wuerthner, 588.85 m3/s and 4.39 m3/s. According to Ecology they were 19200 cuft/s and 214 cuft/s.
watersheds. Bogachiel Peak
is part of the High Divide. The Bogachiel River
rises near Bogachiel Peak and flows south of the Sol Duc River. The confluence of the two forms the Quillayute River.
The Sol Duc flows generally west and northwest, collecting numerous headwater tributaries. Bridge Creek, which flows from Heart Lake in the high alpine Soleduck Park, joins the Sol Duc in Soleduck Flats. Rocky Creek flows from Mount Appleton near Appleton Pass, joining the Sol Duc from the north. Seven Lakes Creek flows from Seven Lakes Basin through several lakes including Soleduck Lake, to join the Sol Duc River from the south.
The river plunges over Sol Duc Falls, after which Canyon Creek joins from the south. The Sol Duc turns more directly northwest and its valley broadens. It passes Sol Duc Hot Springs
, a resort spa built in 1912 and refurbished in the 1980s by the National Park Service. Nearby is the Sol Duc Campground, and the Soleduck Ranger Station, after which its valley becomes considerably wider. The Sol Duc River continues northwest, paralleled by the Sol Duc Road leading to the campground. For a short distance the boundary of Olympic National Park runs approximately along the river. Just before the river exits the national park it is joined by its two main tributaries. First the North Fork Sol Duc River then the South Fork Sol Duc River. Goodman Creek joins about a mile below the South Fork confluence.
After leaving Olympic National Park the Sol Duc River flows west through part of Olympic National Forest
. Its valley, here called the Sol Duc Valley, widens to about a mile across. The valley, about 35 miles (56.3 km) long, continues to widen as the river flows west and southwest. U.S. Route 101
runs through most of the valley. Numerous tributaries flow from the high mountain ridges to the north and south. Kugel Creek joins the river near the Forest Service's
Klahowya Campground. A few miles west of the campground the river exits Olympic National Forest. Bear Creek joins from the north near Bear Creek Campground. Beaver Creek joins from the north near Sappho
, after which the Sol Duc River begins to turn more to the southwest and south. The Soleduck Salmon Hatchery is located along the river near Lake Pleasant
and the community of Beaver
. Lake Creek, flowing from Lake Pleasant, joins the Sol Duc near Shuwah.
For several miles the Sol Duc River flows very close to the Calawah River
, a tributary of the Bogachiel River. U.S. Route 101 leaves the Sol Duc Valley in this area, turning south toward Forks
. Washington State Route 110
, called La Push Road, continues down the Sol Duc Valley. After making a number of large meanders the Sol Duc River ends at its confluence with the Bogachiel River. The combined rivers are known as the Quillayute River, which flows west several miles and empties into the Pacific Ocean near La Push
.
, about 4 miles (6.4 km) southeast of Mount Muller. It is approximately 13.5 miles (21.7 km) long.
The North Fork is entirely within Olympic National Park.
. At least 1,700 trees were toppled in the Sol Duc Valley along the road between Sappho and Lake Crescent. Many settlers who had claimed timberland in order to sell to timber companies found their land worthless. Many simply moved away.
Large wildfire
s burned through the forests of the upper Sol Duc Valley in 1907 and in the 1951 Forks Fire. Wildfires in this area tend to spread quickly east to west while remaining narrow north to south. This is due to the wind patterns near Lake Crescent
, where east winds accelerate as they are funneled through a narrow valley corridor west of Lake Crescent and into the Sol Duc Valley.
The 1951 fire started on September 20 after 108 days without rain. Driven by high winds the fire spread west down the Sol Duc Valley at a rate of about 18 miles (29 km) in 6 hours. Over 30000 acres (121.4 km²) of timber was destroyed. Smoke in the city of Forks was so dense that drivers evacuating in the middle of the day could barely see the road. The fire reached the edge of Forks, destroying 28 houses and a number of other buildings before a light rain began to fall, halting and eventually putting out the fire.
in the Pacific Northwest
, with as many as 19,000 steelhead returning to spawn in some years. There are also large runs of chinook
and coho
salmon. The lack of glaciers at stream headwaters keeps the consistency of river fish habitats. Of the Quillayute's tributaries, the Sol Duc River is remarkable in its migratory fish diversity and health. It is the only Quillayute tributary that supports spring chinook salmon. It contains sockeye
salmon in June and July and so-called summer coho salmon in August and September. Cutthroat trout
also spawn in the Sol Duc River.
The Sol Duc River is one of the only rivers of the Olympic Peninsula that supports all five major species of salmon. The upper Sol Duc is a prime coho spawning stream.
River
A river is a natural watercourse, usually freshwater, flowing towards an ocean, a lake, a sea, or another river. In a few cases, a river simply flows into the ground or dries up completely before reaching another body of water. Small rivers may also be called by several other names, including...
in the U.S. state
U.S. state
A U.S. state is any one of the 50 federated states of the United States of America that share sovereignty with the federal government. Because of this shared sovereignty, an American is a citizen both of the federal entity and of his or her state of domicile. Four states use the official title of...
of Washington. About 78 miles (125.5 km) long, it flows west through the northwest part of the Olympic Peninsula
Olympic Peninsula
The Olympic Peninsula is the large arm of land in western Washington state of the USA, that lies across Puget Sound from Seattle. It is bounded on the west by the Pacific Ocean, the north by the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and the east by Puget Sound. Cape Alava, the westernmost point in the contiguous...
, from the Olympic Mountains
Olympic Mountains
The Olympic Mountains is a mountain range on the Olympic Peninsula of western Washington in the United States. The mountains, part of the Pacific Coast Ranges, are not especially high - Mount Olympus is the highest at - but the western slopes of the Olympics rise directly out of the Pacific...
of Olympic National Park
Olympic National Park
Olympic National Park is located in the U.S. state of Washington, in the Olympic Peninsula. The park can be divided into four basic regions: the Pacific coastline, alpine areas, the west side temperate rainforest and the forests of the drier east side. U.S...
and Olympic National Forest
Olympic National Forest
Olympic National Forest is a U.S. National Forest located in Washington, USA. With an area of 633,677 acres , it nearly surrounds Olympic National Park and the Olympic Mountain range. Olympic National Forest contains parts of Clallam, Grays Harbor, Jefferson, and Mason counties...
, then through the broad Sol Duc Valley. Near the Pacific Ocean
Pacific Ocean
The Pacific Ocean is the largest of the Earth's oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic in the north to the Southern Ocean in the south, bounded by Asia and Australia in the west, and the Americas in the east.At 165.2 million square kilometres in area, this largest division of the World...
the Sol Duc River joins the Bogachiel River
Bogachiel River
The Bogachiel River is a river of the Olympic Peninsula in the U.S. state of Washington. It originates near Bogachiel Peak, flows west through the mountains of Olympic National Park...
, forming the Quillayute River
Quillayute River
The Quillayute River is a river situated on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington. It empties to the Pacific Ocean at La Push, Washington. The Quillayute River is formed by the confluence of the Bogachiel River and the Sol Duc River...
, which flows about 4 miles (6.4 km) to the Pacific Ocean
Pacific Ocean
The Pacific Ocean is the largest of the Earth's oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic in the north to the Southern Ocean in the south, bounded by Asia and Australia in the west, and the Americas in the east.At 165.2 million square kilometres in area, this largest division of the World...
at La Push
La Push, Washington
La Push is a small unincorporated community in Clallam County, Washington, United States. It is home to the Quileute tribe and is located along the Quileute River. La Push is known for its whale-watching and natural beauty.- Geography :...
. Although the Quillayute River is short, its large tributary rivers—the Sol Duc, Bogachiel, Calawah
Calawah River
The Calawah River is a tributary of the Bogachiel River in Clallam County in the U.S. state of Washington, on its Olympic Peninsula. Its two major tributaries are the South and North Forks Calawah River. The river drains an unpopulated portion of the low foothills of the Olympic Mountains; its...
, and Dickey River
Dickey River
The Dickey River is a stream on the Olympic Peninsula in the U.S. state of Washington. It has three main forks, the East Fork, West Fork, and Middle Fork Dickey Rivers. The main stem is formed by the confluence of the East and West Forks...
s—drain the largest watershed
Drainage basin
A drainage basin is an extent or an area of land where surface water from rain and melting snow or ice converges to a single point, usually the exit of the basin, where the waters join another waterbody, such as a river, lake, reservoir, estuary, wetland, sea, or ocean...
of the northern Olympic Peninsula, 629 square miles (1,629.1 km²). The Sol Duc's watershed is the largest of the Quillayute's tributaries, at 219 square miles (567.2 km²).
The Sol Duc River's main tributaries are its two forks, the North Fork Sol Duc River and the South Fork Sol Duc River. Other notable tributaries include Bear Creek, Beaver Creek, and Lake Creek.
Much of the Sol Duc River's watershed is valuable timber land. Most of the forests have been logged at least once. The forests within Olympic National Park are protected.
U.S. Route 101
U.S. Route 101
U.S. Route 101, or U.S. Highway 101, is an important north–south U.S. highway that runs through the states of California, Oregon, and Washington, on the West Coast of the United States...
follows the Sol Duc River for many miles through Olympic National Forest and the Sol Duc Valley to the vicinity of Forks
Forks, Washington
-Government:The City is organized under Washington State law as a Non-charter Code City. Its structure is that of an elected Mayor and a five member elected City Council...
. The city of Forks is so named due to the close convergence of the Sol Duc, Bogachiel, and Calawah River
Calawah River
The Calawah River is a tributary of the Bogachiel River in Clallam County in the U.S. state of Washington, on its Olympic Peninsula. Its two major tributaries are the South and North Forks Calawah River. The river drains an unpopulated portion of the low foothills of the Olympic Mountains; its...
s.
Name
There are two common spellings of the river's name, Sol Duc and Soleduck. Before 1992 the accepted spelling was "Soleduck". In 1992 the spelling was officially changed to "Sol Duc" by the State of Washington Board on Geographic Names. The name comes from its Quileute name, /só:liɬt'aqʷ/, meaning "sparkling waters".Streamflow
The dischargeDischarge (hydrology)
In hydrology, discharge is the volume rate of water flow, including any suspended solids , dissolved chemical species and/or biologic material , which is transported through a given cross-sectional area...
, or streamflow
Streamflow
Streamflow, or channel runoff, is the flow of water in streams, rivers, and other channels, and is a major element of the water cycle. It is one component of the runoff of water from the land to waterbodies, the other component being surface runoff...
of the Sol Duc River has considerable seasonal variation. According to George Wuerthner, the river's average winter flow is 104.75 m3/s but its average summer flow is only 12.74 m3/s. Wuerthner cites slightly different annual streamflow figures than the Washington Department of Ecology. Also, Wuerthner uses metric units while Ecology uses imperial units. Wuerthner says the mean annual flow is 37 m3/s, Ecology says it is 1270 cuft/s. The maximum and minimum recorded discharges were, according to Wuerthner, 588.85 m3/s and 4.39 m3/s. According to Ecology they were 19200 cuft/s and 214 cuft/s.
Course
The Sol Duc River originates in the northern Olympic Mountains, in Olympic National Park, on the north side of High Divide, which separates the Sol Duc and Hoh RiverHoh River
The Hoh River is a river in the U.S. state of Washington, located on the Olympic Peninsula. About long, the Hoh River originates at the Hoh Glacier on Mount Olympus and flows west through the Olympic Mountains of Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest, then through the foothills in a...
watersheds. Bogachiel Peak
Bogachiel Peak
Bogachiel Peak is a peak in the Olympic Mountains of Washington, USA. It is located in Olympic National Park....
is part of the High Divide. The Bogachiel River
Bogachiel River
The Bogachiel River is a river of the Olympic Peninsula in the U.S. state of Washington. It originates near Bogachiel Peak, flows west through the mountains of Olympic National Park...
rises near Bogachiel Peak and flows south of the Sol Duc River. The confluence of the two forms the Quillayute River.
The Sol Duc flows generally west and northwest, collecting numerous headwater tributaries. Bridge Creek, which flows from Heart Lake in the high alpine Soleduck Park, joins the Sol Duc in Soleduck Flats. Rocky Creek flows from Mount Appleton near Appleton Pass, joining the Sol Duc from the north. Seven Lakes Creek flows from Seven Lakes Basin through several lakes including Soleduck Lake, to join the Sol Duc River from the south.
The river plunges over Sol Duc Falls, after which Canyon Creek joins from the south. The Sol Duc turns more directly northwest and its valley broadens. It passes Sol Duc Hot Springs
Sol Duc Hot Springs
Sol Duc Hot Springs is a resort located in Olympic National Park that is best known for its soaking pools, hot tubs, and a swimming pool that are heated with the nearby hot springs. The resort is situated in a valley carved by the Sol Duc River....
, a resort spa built in 1912 and refurbished in the 1980s by the National Park Service. Nearby is the Sol Duc Campground, and the Soleduck Ranger Station, after which its valley becomes considerably wider. The Sol Duc River continues northwest, paralleled by the Sol Duc Road leading to the campground. For a short distance the boundary of Olympic National Park runs approximately along the river. Just before the river exits the national park it is joined by its two main tributaries. First the North Fork Sol Duc River then the South Fork Sol Duc River. Goodman Creek joins about a mile below the South Fork confluence.
After leaving Olympic National Park the Sol Duc River flows west through part of Olympic National Forest
Olympic National Forest
Olympic National Forest is a U.S. National Forest located in Washington, USA. With an area of 633,677 acres , it nearly surrounds Olympic National Park and the Olympic Mountain range. Olympic National Forest contains parts of Clallam, Grays Harbor, Jefferson, and Mason counties...
. Its valley, here called the Sol Duc Valley, widens to about a mile across. The valley, about 35 miles (56.3 km) long, continues to widen as the river flows west and southwest. U.S. Route 101
U.S. Route 101
U.S. Route 101, or U.S. Highway 101, is an important north–south U.S. highway that runs through the states of California, Oregon, and Washington, on the West Coast of the United States...
runs through most of the valley. Numerous tributaries flow from the high mountain ridges to the north and south. Kugel Creek joins the river near the Forest Service's
United States Forest Service
The United States Forest Service is an agency of the United States Department of Agriculture that administers the nation's 155 national forests and 20 national grasslands, which encompass...
Klahowya Campground. A few miles west of the campground the river exits Olympic National Forest. Bear Creek joins from the north near Bear Creek Campground. Beaver Creek joins from the north near Sappho
Sappho, Washington
Sappho is an unincorporated community in Clallam County, Washington, United States. The town is located at the intersection of U.S. Route 101 and Washington Route 113, in a largely forested area, and features parks and recreational facilities....
, after which the Sol Duc River begins to turn more to the southwest and south. The Soleduck Salmon Hatchery is located along the river near Lake Pleasant
Lake Pleasant (Washington)
Lake Pleasant is a lake located in Clallam County, Washington, United States. The lake is one of the few that is surrounded by private property and is open to fishing all year around. Types of fish at Lake Pleasant are rainbow trout, kokanee, catfish. Salmon spawn in the lake each year. Water...
and the community of Beaver
Beaver, Washington
Beaver is an unincorporated community in Clallam County, Washington, United States on the Olympic Peninsula.-Geography:Beaver is located at , on US Highway 101 to the north of Forks, Washington. It is located on just to the west of the boundary of the Olympic National Forest, on Lake Pleasant....
. Lake Creek, flowing from Lake Pleasant, joins the Sol Duc near Shuwah.
For several miles the Sol Duc River flows very close to the Calawah River
Calawah River
The Calawah River is a tributary of the Bogachiel River in Clallam County in the U.S. state of Washington, on its Olympic Peninsula. Its two major tributaries are the South and North Forks Calawah River. The river drains an unpopulated portion of the low foothills of the Olympic Mountains; its...
, a tributary of the Bogachiel River. U.S. Route 101 leaves the Sol Duc Valley in this area, turning south toward Forks
Forks, Washington
-Government:The City is organized under Washington State law as a Non-charter Code City. Its structure is that of an elected Mayor and a five member elected City Council...
. Washington State Route 110
Washington State Route 110
State Route 110 is a state highway in the U.S. state of Washington, running from Forks to La Push. The road is also known as La Push Road.A spur route, designated SR 110 Spur extends from SR 110 in Mora to the Olympic National Park boundary near the Mora Ranger Station.-History:What is now State...
, called La Push Road, continues down the Sol Duc Valley. After making a number of large meanders the Sol Duc River ends at its confluence with the Bogachiel River. The combined rivers are known as the Quillayute River, which flows west several miles and empties into the Pacific Ocean near La Push
La Push, Washington
La Push is a small unincorporated community in Clallam County, Washington, United States. It is home to the Quileute tribe and is located along the Quileute River. La Push is known for its whale-watching and natural beauty.- Geography :...
.
North Fork Sol Duc River
The North Fork Sol Duc River originates at 47°56′52"N 123°45′2"W, on the west slope of Mount Appleton. It flows generally northwest, joining the Sol Duc River near FairholmFairholm, Washington
Fairholm is an unincorporated community in Clallam County, Washington, United States. The community is located at the west end of Lake Crescent in the Olympic National Park. Fairholm also features a general store, cafe, and other park-related buildings.Fairhom was settled just prior to 1891 by...
, about 4 miles (6.4 km) southeast of Mount Muller. It is approximately 13.5 miles (21.7 km) long.
The North Fork is entirely within Olympic National Park.
South Fork Sol Duc River
The South Fork Sol Duc River originates at 47°57′5"N 123°58′11"W, on the west slope of Pine Mountain. It flows north, joining the Sol Duc River 2.8 miles (4.5 km) southwest of Fairholm and 4 miles (6.4 km) south of Mount Muller. It is approximately 7.7 miles (12.4 km) long. Tom Creek joins less than a mile from the South Fork's confluence with the main stem Sol Duc River. The South Fork is entirely within Olympic National Forest.History
In the early 20th century the logging potential of the northwest Olympic Peninsula drew increasing numbers of settlers. Tracts of timberland were purchased throughout the Sol Duc watershed, especially in the relatively accessible Sol Duc Valley. In January 1921 a massive "blowdow" toppled trees over a wide region between the Sol Duc and Hoh RiverHoh River
The Hoh River is a river in the U.S. state of Washington, located on the Olympic Peninsula. About long, the Hoh River originates at the Hoh Glacier on Mount Olympus and flows west through the Olympic Mountains of Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest, then through the foothills in a...
. At least 1,700 trees were toppled in the Sol Duc Valley along the road between Sappho and Lake Crescent. Many settlers who had claimed timberland in order to sell to timber companies found their land worthless. Many simply moved away.
Large wildfire
Wildfire
A wildfire is any uncontrolled fire in combustible vegetation that occurs in the countryside or a wilderness area. Other names such as brush fire, bushfire, forest fire, desert fire, grass fire, hill fire, squirrel fire, vegetation fire, veldfire, and wilkjjofire may be used to describe the same...
s burned through the forests of the upper Sol Duc Valley in 1907 and in the 1951 Forks Fire. Wildfires in this area tend to spread quickly east to west while remaining narrow north to south. This is due to the wind patterns near Lake Crescent
Lake Crescent
Lake Crescent is a deep lake located entirely within Olympic National Park in Clallam County, Washington, United States, approximately west of Port Angeles, Washington on U.S. Route 101 and nearby to the small community of Piedmont...
, where east winds accelerate as they are funneled through a narrow valley corridor west of Lake Crescent and into the Sol Duc Valley.
The 1951 fire started on September 20 after 108 days without rain. Driven by high winds the fire spread west down the Sol Duc Valley at a rate of about 18 miles (29 km) in 6 hours. Over 30000 acres (121.4 km²) of timber was destroyed. Smoke in the city of Forks was so dense that drivers evacuating in the middle of the day could barely see the road. The fire reached the edge of Forks, destroying 28 houses and a number of other buildings before a light rain began to fall, halting and eventually putting out the fire.
Natural history
The Sol Duc and the other tributaries of the Quillayute River support some of the healthiest stocks of wild winter steelhead troutRainbow trout
The rainbow trout is a species of salmonid native to tributaries of the Pacific Ocean in Asia and North America. The steelhead is a sea run rainbow trout usually returning to freshwater to spawn after 2 to 3 years at sea. In other words, rainbow trout and steelhead trout are the same species....
in the Pacific Northwest
Pacific Northwest
The Pacific Northwest is a region in northwestern North America, bounded by the Pacific Ocean to the west and, loosely, by the Rocky Mountains on the east. Definitions of the region vary and there is no commonly agreed upon boundary, even among Pacific Northwesterners. A common concept of the...
, with as many as 19,000 steelhead returning to spawn in some years. There are also large runs of chinook
Chinook salmon
The Chinook salmon, Oncorhynchus tshawytscha, is the largest species in the pacific salmon family. Other commonly used names for the species include King salmon, Quinnat salmon, Spring salmon and Tyee salmon...
and coho
Coho salmon
The Coho salmon, Oncorhynchus kisutch, is a species of anadromous fish in the salmon family. Coho salmon are also known as silver salmon or "silvers". It is the state animal of Chiba, Japan.-Description:...
salmon. The lack of glaciers at stream headwaters keeps the consistency of river fish habitats. Of the Quillayute's tributaries, the Sol Duc River is remarkable in its migratory fish diversity and health. It is the only Quillayute tributary that supports spring chinook salmon. It contains sockeye
Sockeye salmon
Sockeye salmon , also called red salmon or blueback salmon in the USA, is an anadromous species of salmon found in the Northern Pacific Ocean and rivers discharging into it...
salmon in June and July and so-called summer coho salmon in August and September. Cutthroat trout
Cutthroat trout
The cutthroat trout is a species of freshwater fish in the salmon family of order Salmoniformes. It is one of the many fish species colloquially known as trout...
also spawn in the Sol Duc River.
The Sol Duc River is one of the only rivers of the Olympic Peninsula that supports all five major species of salmon. The upper Sol Duc is a prime coho spawning stream.
Tributaries
Selected tributaries are listed from the source to the mouth of the Sol Duc River. "East" and "west" notes indicate the direction from which the tributary enters the Sol Duc from a downriver perspective. Multiple bullet points indicate tributaries of tributaries.- Blackwood Creek (left)
- Munden Creek (left)
- Alkee Creek (left)
- South Fork Sol Duc River (left)
- Tom Creek (left)
- North Fork Sol Duc River (right)
- Goodman Creek (left)
- Camp Creek (left)
- Kugel Creek (left)
- Bear Creek (right)
- Beaver Creek (right)
- Bockman Creek (left)
- Lake Creek (right)
- Shuwah Creek (left)
- Maxfield Creek (left)
- Tassel Creek (left)
- Sanderson Creek (right)
External links
- Visiting the Sol Duc Valley, U.S. National Park Service
- River & Stream Water Quality Monitoring, Station 20A090 Soleduck River near Forks; Department of Ecology, State of Washington
- Sol Duc Watershed Analysis, Water Quality, Washington Department of Natural Resources
- Wild beauty of the Sol Duc valley is therapeutic any time of year