Ayam (cap)
Encyclopedia
An ayam is a Korea
n traditional winter cap
mostly worn by women in the Joseon period (1392 – 1910) for protection against the cold. It is also called aegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" in Korean
. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class called iseo (이서) wore ayam in the early Joseon period, so it was a unisex cap. However, it is not clear whether the shape at that time was identical to that of the later period. During the late Joseon period, an ayam was usually worn by female commoners. Especially in the western part of Korea, kisaeng
(female Korean entertainers) commonly wore an ayam, and they were also worn as a simple formal headgear
.
ed, the vertical line of the front shorter than the back's. On the bottom edge, the front part is more curved than the back. In addition, the vertical lines of the front and back are a little curvy, so that, when wearing an ayam, it fits well to one's head. Black or purple silk is used for the upper quilted part of the outer fabric, while black or dark brown fur is used for the rest of the mobu. The fabric for the inner is red cotton flannel
.
The tassel
attached to the upper center of both front and back is mostly red in color and the strings connected from both sides are all flat braid
s. However, some ayam worn by kisaeng were very luxuriously adorned with big and sumptuous jewels, such as jade
, amber
, or orpiment
, on the tassels of both sides.
There are two types of deurim hung on the back of ayam. One is made with two sheets of fabric in a 9–10 cm width which are linked together lightly. The other is made of one sheet of fabric in an 18–20 cm width, with the center folded. On the center line of the deurim are decorations of jade, amber, and others gems, and the length is usually over 100 cm. The ayam worn for spring and autumn has the same shape as the one for winter, but it is made of a lighter silk.
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...
n traditional winter cap
Cap
A cap is a form of headgear. Caps have crowns that fit very close to the head and have no brim or only a visor. They are typically designed for warmth and, when including a visor, blocking sunlight from the eyes...
mostly worn by women in the Joseon period (1392 – 1910) for protection against the cold. It is also called aegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" in Korean
Korean language
Korean is the official language of the country Korea, in both South and North. It is also one of the two official languages in the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture in People's Republic of China. There are about 78 million Korean speakers worldwide. In the 15th century, a national writing...
. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class called iseo (이서) wore ayam in the early Joseon period, so it was a unisex cap. However, it is not clear whether the shape at that time was identical to that of the later period. During the late Joseon period, an ayam was usually worn by female commoners. Especially in the western part of Korea, kisaeng
Kisaeng
Kisaeng , sometimes called ginyeo , were female Korean official prostitute or entertainers. Kisaeng are artists who work to entertain others, such as the yangbans and kings....
(female Korean entertainers) commonly wore an ayam, and they were also worn as a simple formal headgear
Headgear
Headgear, headwear or headdress is the name given to any element of clothing which is worn on one's head.Headgear serve a variety of purposes:...
.
Composition
The ayam generally consists of mobu (모부, a crown) and deurim (드림) which are shaped like daenggi (댕기) or a big ribbon. The upper 4–5 cm part of the mobu is finely quiltQuilt
A quilt is a type of bed cover, traditionally composed of three layers of fiber: a woven cloth top, a layer of batting or wadding and a woven back, combined using the technique of quilting. “Quilting” refers to the technique of joining at least two fabric layers by stitches or ties...
ed, the vertical line of the front shorter than the back's. On the bottom edge, the front part is more curved than the back. In addition, the vertical lines of the front and back are a little curvy, so that, when wearing an ayam, it fits well to one's head. Black or purple silk is used for the upper quilted part of the outer fabric, while black or dark brown fur is used for the rest of the mobu. The fabric for the inner is red cotton flannel
Flannel
Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fibre. Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. The brushing process is a mechanical process...
.
The tassel
Tassel
A tassel is a finishing feature in fabric decoration. It is a universal ornament that is seen in varying versions in many cultures around the globe.-Etymology:...
attached to the upper center of both front and back is mostly red in color and the strings connected from both sides are all flat braid
Braid
A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by intertwining three or more strands of flexible material such as textile fibres, wire, or human hair...
s. However, some ayam worn by kisaeng were very luxuriously adorned with big and sumptuous jewels, such as jade
Jade
Jade is an ornamental stone.The term jade is applied to two different metamorphic rocks that are made up of different silicate minerals:...
, amber
Amber
Amber is fossilized tree resin , which has been appreciated for its color and natural beauty since Neolithic times. Amber is used as an ingredient in perfumes, as a healing agent in folk medicine, and as jewelry. There are five classes of amber, defined on the basis of their chemical constituents...
, or orpiment
Orpiment
Orpiment, As2S3, is a common monoclinic arsenic sulfide mineral. It has a Mohs hardness of 1.5 to 2 and a specific gravity of 3.46. It melts at 300 °C to 325 °C...
, on the tassels of both sides.
There are two types of deurim hung on the back of ayam. One is made with two sheets of fabric in a 9–10 cm width which are linked together lightly. The other is made of one sheet of fabric in an 18–20 cm width, with the center folded. On the center line of the deurim are decorations of jade, amber, and others gems, and the length is usually over 100 cm. The ayam worn for spring and autumn has the same shape as the one for winter, but it is made of a lighter silk.
See also
- JokduriJokduriA jokduri is a type of Korean traditional coronet worn by women for special occasions such as weddings. It consists of an outer crown which is covered with black silk, and the inner which is filled with cotton and hard paper. Its top is decorated with cloisonné ornaments. The crown is also called...
- JobawiJobawiA jobawi is a type of traditional Korean winter cap with earflaps which was worn by women and was made of silk. Since its first appearance in the late Joseon period, it has been widely worn as a substitute for the ayam...
- HwagwanHwagwanHwagwan is a type of Korean coronet worn by women, traditionally for ceremonial occasions such as weddings. It is similar to thejokduri in shape and function, but the hwagan is more elaborate....
- Mob capMob capA mob cap or mob-cap is a round, gathered or pleated cloth bonnet consisting of a caul to cover the hair, a frilled or ruffled brim, and a ribbon band, worn by married women in the Georgian period, when it was called a "bonnet"...
- TubeteikaTubeteikaA tubeteika or tübätäy is a Central Asian cap, today worn in Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan, as well as in Muslim-populated regions of Russia . The tubeteika is worn typically by the Turkic ethnic groups of the region. It bears some superficial resemblance to the yurt, another...
- HanbokHanbokHanbok or Chosŏn-ot is the traditional Korean dress. It is often characterized by vibrant colors and simple lines without pockets. Although the term literally means "Korean clothing", hanbok today often refers specifically to hanbok of Joseon Dynasty and is worn as semi-formal or formal wear...
- List of Korean clothing