Jobawi
Encyclopedia
A jobawi is a type of traditional Korea
n winter cap
with earflaps which was worn by women and was made of silk
. Since its first appearance in the late Joseon period, it has been widely worn as a substitute for the ayam
(a cap with a big ribbon
on the back). Although the jobawi was worn by the upper class as well as by commoners, it was mostly used by the yangban
aristocracy of that time as a decorative headgear
when they went out. In addition, the jobawi was worn not only as formal headgear
, but also for special occasions. Even though a wearer was not in formal attire, if she wore a jobawi, the overall outfit could be considered as simple formal clothing.
The jobawi does not cover the top of the head just like other unisex winter caps such as the ayam, nambawi
and the pungcha
. But it fully covers the forehead and the ears on the sides with round earflaps to protect against the cold. The outer surface is generally made of several varieties of silk called sa (사) or dan (단) while its inner surface is made of dan, myeongju (명주, more lustrous silk), or cotton
.
Tassel
s are attached to both front and back side of the jobawi; they can also be adorned with jewelry. Some jobawi were decorated with accessories made from silver
, jade
, agate
or other gem
s on the left and right side of the forehead as well as on the bottom part of the back side. The front and back of the jobawis top are loosely linked by a string which either consists of coral
beads or is made of silver strings in a floral or simple braid
.
There were jobawi embroidered with bead
s or adorned with geumbak
(gold leaf
decoration) which were usually worn by children or young females. The patterns of the geumbak were usually flowers or letters in hanja
reading bugwi (부귀, , wealth and honors), danam (다남, , many sons), subok (수복, , long life and happiness), or gangnyeong (강녕 , happiness and peace). This decoration was on the edge of the jobawi. At present, baby girls wear such jobawi on the occasion of their doljanchi
, which celebrates their first birthday.
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...
n winter cap
Cap
A cap is a form of headgear. Caps have crowns that fit very close to the head and have no brim or only a visor. They are typically designed for warmth and, when including a visor, blocking sunlight from the eyes...
with earflaps which was worn by women and was made of silk
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity...
. Since its first appearance in the late Joseon period, it has been widely worn as a substitute for the ayam
Ayam (cap)
An ayam is a Korean traditional winter cap mostly worn by women in the Joseon period for protection against the cold. It is also called aegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" in Korean. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class called iseo wore ayam in...
(a cap with a big ribbon
Ribbon
A ribbon or riband is a thin band of material, typically cloth but also plastic or sometimes metal, used primarily for binding and tying. Cloth ribbons, most commonly silk, are often used in connection with clothing, but are also applied for innumerable useful, ornamental and symbolic purposes...
on the back). Although the jobawi was worn by the upper class as well as by commoners, it was mostly used by the yangban
Yangban
The yangban were part of the traditional ruling class or nobles of dynastic Korea during the Joseon Dynasty. The yangban were either landed or unlanded aristocracy who comprised the Korean Confucian idea of a "scholarly official." In reality, they were basically administrators and bureaucrats who...
aristocracy of that time as a decorative headgear
Headgear
Headgear, headwear or headdress is the name given to any element of clothing which is worn on one's head.Headgear serve a variety of purposes:...
when they went out. In addition, the jobawi was worn not only as formal headgear
Headgear
Headgear, headwear or headdress is the name given to any element of clothing which is worn on one's head.Headgear serve a variety of purposes:...
, but also for special occasions. Even though a wearer was not in formal attire, if she wore a jobawi, the overall outfit could be considered as simple formal clothing.
The jobawi does not cover the top of the head just like other unisex winter caps such as the ayam, nambawi
Nambawi
A nambawi is a type of traditional Korean winter hat worn by both men and women during the Joseon period for protection against the cold. The other names for it are pungdengi and nani . The nambawi is also called ieom which was worn in the early Joseon period, although it was derived from the cap...
and the pungcha
Pungcha
A pungcha is a type of traditional Korean winter hat worn by both men and women during the Joseon period for protection against the cold. It is also called pungchae and jeongpungcha. Although its shape is very similar with nambawi, the pungcha has a bolkki attached on both sides of the ears...
. But it fully covers the forehead and the ears on the sides with round earflaps to protect against the cold. The outer surface is generally made of several varieties of silk called sa (사) or dan (단) while its inner surface is made of dan, myeongju (명주, more lustrous silk), or cotton
Cotton
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed dispersal....
.
Tassel
Tassel
A tassel is a finishing feature in fabric decoration. It is a universal ornament that is seen in varying versions in many cultures around the globe.-Etymology:...
s are attached to both front and back side of the jobawi; they can also be adorned with jewelry. Some jobawi were decorated with accessories made from silver
Silver
Silver is a metallic chemical element with the chemical symbol Ag and atomic number 47. A soft, white, lustrous transition metal, it has the highest electrical conductivity of any element and the highest thermal conductivity of any metal...
, jade
Jade
Jade is an ornamental stone.The term jade is applied to two different metamorphic rocks that are made up of different silicate minerals:...
, agate
Agate
Agate is a microcrystalline variety of silica, chiefly chalcedony, characterised by its fineness of grain and brightness of color. Although agates may be found in various kinds of rock, they are classically associated with volcanic rocks and can be common in certain metamorphic rocks.-Etymology...
or other gem
Gemstone
A gemstone or gem is a piece of mineral, which, in cut and polished form, is used to make jewelry or other adornments...
s on the left and right side of the forehead as well as on the bottom part of the back side. The front and back of the jobawis top are loosely linked by a string which either consists of coral
Coral
Corals are marine animals in class Anthozoa of phylum Cnidaria typically living in compact colonies of many identical individual "polyps". The group includes the important reef builders that inhabit tropical oceans and secrete calcium carbonate to form a hard skeleton.A coral "head" is a colony of...
beads or is made of silver strings in a floral or simple braid
Braid
A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by intertwining three or more strands of flexible material such as textile fibres, wire, or human hair...
.
There were jobawi embroidered with bead
Bead
A bead is a small, decorative object that is usually pierced for threading or stringing. Beads range in size from under to over in diameter. A pair of beads made from Nassarius sea snail shells, approximately 100,000 years old, are thought to be the earliest known examples of jewellery. Beadwork...
s or adorned with geumbak
Geumbak
Geumbak is a Korean traditional craft for applying extremely thin gold leaf on hanbok , or other fabrics for decoration. Artisans who specialize in the technique are called geumbakjang and among them, Kim Deokhwan has been designated as the title holder of the 119th Important Intangible Cultural...
(gold leaf
Gold leaf
right|thumb|250px|[[Burnishing]] gold leaf with an [[agate]] stone tool, during the water gilding processGold leaf is gold that has been hammered into extremely thin sheets and is often used for gilding. Gold leaf is available in a wide variety of karats and shades...
decoration) which were usually worn by children or young females. The patterns of the geumbak were usually flowers or letters in hanja
Hanja
Hanja is the Korean name for the Chinese characters hanzi. More specifically, it refers to those Chinese characters borrowed from Chinese and incorporated into the Korean language with Korean pronunciation...
reading bugwi (부귀, , wealth and honors), danam (다남, , many sons), subok (수복, , long life and happiness), or gangnyeong (강녕 , happiness and peace). This decoration was on the edge of the jobawi. At present, baby girls wear such jobawi on the occasion of their doljanchi
Doljanchi
Dol or doljanchi is a Korean tradition that celebrates the birthday of a one-year-old baby. This ceremony blesses the child with a prosperous future and has taken on great significance in Korea...
, which celebrates their first birthday.