Nambawi
Encyclopedia
A nambawi is a type of traditional Korea
n winter hat
worn by both men and women during the Joseon period for protection against the cold. The other names for it are pungdengi and nani (literally warming ears). The nambawi is also called ieom (literally "covering ears") which was worn in the early Joseon period, although it was derived from the cap. It was originally worn by the upper class as a daily hat, but spread to commoners and women in the later period. It was usually worn by middle-aged women and old people as well as by government officers who put it under the samo (사모, official hat).
The nambawi is open on the top so that it does not cover the top of the head just like other winter caps such as the ayam
and the jobawi
, both of which were actually adapted from it, whereas it fully covers the forehead, back and ears on the sides to provide warmth against the cold. The overall shape of the side is curved in three phases. The edge of the nambawi is bordered with 4 to 7 cm of fur, which was usually marten
leather. It has a long back flap for the back of the neck and earflaps on both sides which cover the ears. Sashes made of silk are attached to the ear flaps so they can be tied under the chin to hold the hat tightly in place. The outer is generally made of a variety of silk called dan (단) but sometimes wool
and cotton
were used. The inner is made of flannel
and sometimes wool as well.
The common color for the outer fabric was black, while for the inner, black, green, or red were used. Sometimes dark blue, purple, maroon, light violet, light green were used for the outer and a yellow colored fabric was used for the inner. The bordered fur was usually black, dark brown or dark blue in color, and the tassels were pink or a bright pink color. The nambawi for females were colorfully and luxuriously adorned with geumbak
(gold leaf decoration) of crane
s, butterflies, chrysanthemum
s, and phoenix
or other auspicious patterns.
Korea
Korea ) is an East Asian geographic region that is currently divided into two separate sovereign states — North Korea and South Korea. Located on the Korean Peninsula, Korea is bordered by the People's Republic of China to the northwest, Russia to the northeast, and is separated from Japan to the...
n winter hat
Hat
A hat is a head covering. It can be worn for protection against the elements, for ceremonial or religious reasons, for safety, or as a fashion accessory. In the past, hats were an indicator of social status...
worn by both men and women during the Joseon period for protection against the cold. The other names for it are pungdengi and nani (literally warming ears). The nambawi is also called ieom (literally "covering ears") which was worn in the early Joseon period, although it was derived from the cap. It was originally worn by the upper class as a daily hat, but spread to commoners and women in the later period. It was usually worn by middle-aged women and old people as well as by government officers who put it under the samo (사모, official hat).
The nambawi is open on the top so that it does not cover the top of the head just like other winter caps such as the ayam
Ayam (cap)
An ayam is a Korean traditional winter cap mostly worn by women in the Joseon period for protection against the cold. It is also called aegeom which literally means "covering a forehead" in Korean. There is a historical record which mentions that officials in a low class called iseo wore ayam in...
and the jobawi
Jobawi
A jobawi is a type of traditional Korean winter cap with earflaps which was worn by women and was made of silk. Since its first appearance in the late Joseon period, it has been widely worn as a substitute for the ayam...
, both of which were actually adapted from it, whereas it fully covers the forehead, back and ears on the sides to provide warmth against the cold. The overall shape of the side is curved in three phases. The edge of the nambawi is bordered with 4 to 7 cm of fur, which was usually marten
Marten
The martens constitute the genus Martes within the subfamily Mustelinae, in family Mustelidae.-Description:Martens are slender, agile animals, adapted to living in taigas, and are found in coniferous and northern deciduous forests across the northern hemisphere. They have bushy tails, and large...
leather. It has a long back flap for the back of the neck and earflaps on both sides which cover the ears. Sashes made of silk are attached to the ear flaps so they can be tied under the chin to hold the hat tightly in place. The outer is generally made of a variety of silk called dan (단) but sometimes wool
Wool
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, vicuña, alpaca, camel from animals in the camel family, and angora from rabbits....
and cotton
Cotton
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed dispersal....
were used. The inner is made of flannel
Flannel
Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fibre. Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. The brushing process is a mechanical process...
and sometimes wool as well.
The common color for the outer fabric was black, while for the inner, black, green, or red were used. Sometimes dark blue, purple, maroon, light violet, light green were used for the outer and a yellow colored fabric was used for the inner. The bordered fur was usually black, dark brown or dark blue in color, and the tassels were pink or a bright pink color. The nambawi for females were colorfully and luxuriously adorned with geumbak
Geumbak
Geumbak is a Korean traditional craft for applying extremely thin gold leaf on hanbok , or other fabrics for decoration. Artisans who specialize in the technique are called geumbakjang and among them, Kim Deokhwan has been designated as the title holder of the 119th Important Intangible Cultural...
(gold leaf decoration) of crane
Crane (bird)
Cranes are a family, Gruidae, of large, long-legged and long-necked birds in the order Gruiformes. There are fifteen species of crane in four genera. Unlike the similar-looking but unrelated herons, cranes fly with necks outstretched, not pulled back...
s, butterflies, chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemums, often called mums or chrysanths, are of the genus constituting approximately 30 species of perennial flowering plants in the family Asteraceae which is native to Asia and northeastern Europe.-Etymology:...
s, and phoenix
Phoenix (mythology)
The phoenix or phenix is a mythical sacred firebird that can be found in the mythologies of the Arabian, Persians, Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, Chinese, Indian and Phoenicians....
or other auspicious patterns.