Constantin Lacatusu
Encyclopedia
Constantin “Ticu” Lăcătuşu (born 21 February 1961) is a Romanian
mountain climber
, geologist
and camera operator
. He is the first Romanian to reach the summit of Everest (May 17, 1995), Broad Peak
and Cho Oyu
.
, Romania
, on February 21, 1961. After secondary studies at Petru Rareş High School
in Piatra Neamţ, he enrolled at the Faculty of Geology and Geophysics of the University of Bucharest
, graduating in 1986. He is married to Irina Păcurariu and has two daughters: Ana Carina (2000) and Iris Petra (April 19, 2008).
project. He completed (Messner
’s list (Carstensz list) in 8 years and 166 days.
In Asia:
Elsewhere:
TV awards:
Romanians
The Romanians are an ethnic group native to Romania, who speak Romanian; they are the majority inhabitants of Romania....
mountain climber
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
, geologist
Geologist
A geologist is a scientist who studies the solid and liquid matter that constitutes the Earth as well as the processes and history that has shaped it. Geologists usually engage in studying geology. Geologists, studying more of an applied science than a theoretical one, must approach Geology using...
and camera operator
Camera operator
A camera operator or cameraman is a professional operator of a film or video camera. In filmmaking, the leading cameraman is usually called a cinematographer, while a cameraman in a video production may be known as a television camera operator, video camera operator, or videographer, depending on...
. He is the first Romanian to reach the summit of Everest (May 17, 1995), Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Broad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
and Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
.
Biography
Constantin Lăcătuşu was born in Piatra NeamţPiatra Neamt
Piatra Neamț , , ; is the capital city of Neamţ County, in the historical region of Moldavia, eastern Romania. Because of its privileged location in the Eastern Carpathian mountains, it is considered one of the most picturesque cities in Romania...
, Romania
Romania
Romania is a country located at the crossroads of Central and Southeastern Europe, on the Lower Danube, within and outside the Carpathian arch, bordering on the Black Sea...
, on February 21, 1961. After secondary studies at Petru Rareş High School
Petru Rares National College (Piatra Neamt)
The Petru Rareș National College is the oldest high school in Piatra Neamț, Romania....
in Piatra Neamţ, he enrolled at the Faculty of Geology and Geophysics of the University of Bucharest
University of Bucharest
The University of Bucharest , in Romania, is a university founded in 1864 by decree of Prince Alexander John Cuza to convert the former Saint Sava Academy into the current University of Bucharest.-Presentation:...
, graduating in 1986. He is married to Irina Păcurariu and has two daughters: Ana Carina (2000) and Iris Petra (April 19, 2008).
The “Seven Summits” project
Constantin Lăcătuşu is the first and only Romanian to finish the Seven SummitsSeven Summits
The Seven Summits are the highest mountains of each of the seven continents. Summiting all of them is regarded as a mountaineering challenge, first postulated as such and achieved on April 30, 1985 by Richard Bass .-Definition:...
project. He completed (Messner
Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol "whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history." He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without...
’s list (Carstensz list) in 8 years and 166 days.
- June 1990: Elbrus (5642 m).
- February 4, 1995: Kilimanjaro (5895 m) - Marangu route
- May 17, 1995: Everest (8848 m) - first Romanian ascent, North Col-North ridge-NE ridge route.
- February 16, 1996: AconcaguaAconcaguaAconcagua is the highest mountain in the Americas at . It is located in the Andes mountain range, in the Argentine province of Mendoza and it lies west by north of its capital, the city of Mendoza. The summit is also located about 5 kilometres from San Juan Province and 15 kilometres from the...
(6962 m) - normal route. - June 4, 1997: Mount McKinley (Denali) (6194 m) - first Romanian team ascent, West Butress route (with Cornel Gălescu).
- April 25, 2000: Puncak JayaPuncak JayaPuncak Jaya or Carstensz Pyramid is the highest summit of Mount Carstensz in the Sudirman Range of the western central highlands of Papua province, Indonesia . Other summits are East Carstensz Peak and Ngga Pulu...
(Carstensz Pyramid) (4884 m) - first Romanian ascent, Messner route (East ridge). - December 10, 2001: Vinson MassifVinson MassifVinson Massif is the highest mountain of Antarctica, lying in the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains, which stand above the Ronne Ice Shelf near the base of the Antarctic Peninsula. The massif is located about from the South Pole and is about long and wide. At the highest point is Mount...
(4897 m) - normal route.
8000 m+ mountains summited
- 1992: Broad PeakBroad PeakBroad Peak , is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 meters . The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.- Geography :...
(8051 m) - first Romanian 8000 m ascent. - 1995: Everest (8848 m) - first Romanian ascent, North Col-North ridge-NE ridge route.
- 1998: Cho OyuCho OyuCho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
(8201 m) - the first Romanian successful self-supported 8000m expedition, solo ascent, without bottled oxygen .
Other notable ascents
In Europe:- 1990: Elbrus East (5621 m), UshbaUshbaUshba is one of the most notable peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. It is located in the Svaneti region of Georgia, just south of the border with the Kabardino-Balkaria region of Russia. Although it does not rank in the 10 highest peaks of the range, Ushba is known as the "Matterhorn of the...
North (4710 m), Pic Sciurovski (4259 m), Chatin-Tau W (4.200 m). - 1991: Donguzorun (4458 m) - first Romanian ascent, solo; Ullu Tau W (4203 m).
- 1993: Nakratau (4451 m) - first Romanian ascent; Keishi (3702 m) - first Romanian ascent; Nakratau-Donguzorun traverse - first Romanian ascent; Elbrus (5642 m); Pic Sciurovski (4259m) - the North wall, Herghiani route. All ascent were made with Lynx Piatra Neamţ team (V.Tofan, A.Vivirschi, L.Mihai, L.Constantinescu, S.Baciu).
- 1994: Monte RosaMonte RosaThe Monte Rosa Massif is a mountain massif located in the eastern part of the Pennine Alps. It is located between Switzerland and Italy...
- Vf. Dufourspitze (4634 m) - first Romanian team ascent; BreithornBreithornThe Breithorn is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, located close to the Matterhorn. It is considered the most easily climbed 4,000 m Alpine peak. This is due to the Klein Matterhorn cable car which takes climbers to over 3,820 m for a starting point. The standard route continues over a glacial...
(4164 m) – first Romanian ascent, NW wall, Welzenbach route; MatterhornMatterhornThe Matterhorn , Monte Cervino or Mont Cervin , is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its summit is 4,478 metres high, making it one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points...
(4478 m); RimpfischhornRimpfischhornThe Rimpfischhorn is a mountain in the Pennine Alps of Switzerland.The first ascent of the mountain was by Leslie Stephen and Robert Living with guides Melchior Anderegg and Johann Zumtaugwald on 9 September 1859. Their route of ascent was from Fluh Alp via the Rimpfischwänge.-External links:* *...
(4199 m) - first Romanian ascent. All ascent were made with A.Beleaua, V.Tofan and C.Vrabie. - 2004: CastorCastor (mountain)Castor is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Valais, Switzerland and the Aosta Valley in Italy. It is the higher of a pair of twin peaks , the other being Pollux, named after the Gemini twins of Roman mythology. Castor's peak is at an elevation of , and it lies between Breithorn...
(4228 m) - first Romanian ascent; PolluxPollux (mountain)Pollux is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Valais, Switzerland and the Aosta Valley in Italy. It is the lower of a pair of twin peaks , the other being Castor, named after the Gemini twins of Roman mythology...
(4.092 m) - first Romanian ascent; Liskamm (4527 m) - new route on North face. All ascent were made with Cezar Cordun, Simion Poiană and Robert Tutuianu. - 2005: WeisshornWeisshornThe Weisshorn is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, in Switzerland. With its summit, it is one of the major peaks in the Alps and overtops the nearby Matterhorn by some 30 metres. It was first climbed in 1861 from Randa by John Tyndall, accompanied by the guides J.J...
(4505 m) (with Lucian Mihai). - 2006: TeideTeideMount Teide , is a volcano on Tenerife, Canary Islands. Its summit is the highest point in Spain, the highest point above sea level in the islands of the Atlantic, and it is the third highest volcano in the world measured from its base on the ocean floor, after Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea located in...
(3718 m), Mont BlancMont BlancMont Blanc or Monte Bianco , meaning "White Mountain", is the highest mountain in the Alps, Western Europe and the European Union. It rises above sea level and is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence...
(4810 m), Grossglockner (3798 m), ZugspitzeZugspitzeThe Zugspitze, at 2,962 metres above sea level, is the highest peak of the Wetterstein Mountains as well as the highest mountain in Germany. It lies south of the town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and the border between Germany and Austria runs over its western summit. South of the mountain is...
(2962 m) (all ascents with Simion Poiană).
In Asia:
- 1994: Everest (8848 m) - reached 8100m on a new route, N-NE Face, TibetTibetTibet is a plateau region in Asia, north-east of the Himalayas. It is the traditional homeland of the Tibetan people as well as some other ethnic groups such as Monpas, Qiang, and Lhobas, and is now also inhabited by considerable numbers of Han and Hui people...
. - 1996: DhaulagiriDhaulagiriDhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....
(8167 m) - stopped at approximately 7800 m due the bad weather. - 1998: Cho OyuCho OyuCho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu lies in the Himalayas and is 20 km west of Mount Everest, at the border between China and Nepal...
(8201 m) - on a new route he reached 7500 m in bad, deteriorating weather. - 1999: DhaulagiriDhaulagiriDhaulagiri is Earth's seventh highest mountain at ; one of fourteen over eight thousand metres. Dhaulagiri was first climbed May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian expedition....
NE peak of the summit ridge (8.140 m) - solo ascent. - 2003: Machermo (6237 m) - virgin peak in Gokio zone ( KhumbuKhumbuKhumbu is located in northeastern Nepal on the Nepalese side of Mount Everest. It is part of the Solukhumbu District, which in turn is part of the Sagarmatha Zone. Khumbu is one of three subregions of the main Khambu and Sherpa settlement of the Himalaya, the other two being Solu and Pharak...
region), first team to ascent (with Viorel Amzaroiu and Vladimir Condratov). - 2004: Rifil Peak (6200 m) - virgin peak on Broken Glacier (KangchenjungaKangchenjungaKangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
region), first team to ascent; Tsisima Peak (6250 m) - virgin peak on Tsisima Glacier (regiunea KangchenjungaKangchenjungaKangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
), first team to ascent; Janak Peak (7090 m) - virgin peak in KangchenjungaKangchenjungaKangchenjunga is the third highest mountain of the world with an elevation of and located along the India-Nepal border in the Himalayas.Kangchenjunga is also the name of the section of the Himalayas and means "The Five Treasures of Snows", as it contains five peaks, four of them over...
region; reached 6.500 m on West face (all ascents made with Ioan Torok). - 2006: Europa Peak (6403 m) - virgin peak in Tsartse massif (Mukut Himal region), first person to ascent.
- 2008: LhotseLhotseLhotse is the fourth highest mountain on Earth and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle is and Lhotse Shar is...
(8516 m) - solo ascent, without bottled oxygen, stopped at 8300 m.
Elsewhere:
- 1996: Cerro Cuerno (5462 m) - first Romanian ascent, SW face..
- 2009: Gunnbjørn Fjeld (3694 m) - first Romanian ascent; Peak Capuccino (3256 m); Petra Peak (3307 m) - first person to ascent, solo; Cone (3669 m) - first Romanian ascent; Dome (3683 m) - first Romanian ascent.
Documentary films
He made several documentary films based on his mountain expedition:- 1996: “Alison Hargreaves - Regina Everestului” (“Alison Hargreaves - Queen of the Everest”)
- 1997: “Alaska - Ultima Frontiera” (“Alaska - The last frontier”)
- 2003: “Ţara Şerpaşilor - Lumea de dincolo de nori” (“Sherpa Land - The world behind the clouds”) (made with Irina Păcurariu)
Awards
Sports awards:- 1994: “Fair-Play” award by Romanian Olympic and Sports Committee for his role in a rescue attempt in Everest.
- 1999: „Sportsman of the year” (with Gabriela SzaboGabriela SzaboGabriela Szabo is a Romanian track and field athlete, winner of the gold medal in the 2000 Summer Olympics in 5000 m and winner of bronze and silver medals in 1996 Summer Olympics and 2000 Summer Olympics in 1500 m, respectively....
)
TV awards:
- 1996: best documentary film at A.P.T.R. awards for “Alison Hargreaves - Regina Everestului”.
- 1998: Grand Prize for “Alaska - Ultima Frontiera” documentary at A.P.T.R. awards.
- 2004: best ethnographic documentary for “Ţara Şerpaşilor - Lumea de dincolo de nori” at A.P.T.R. awards.