Old Delhi
Encyclopedia
Delhi
Delhi , officially National Capital Territory of Delhi , is the largest metropolis by area and the second-largest by population in India, next to Mumbai. It is the eighth largest metropolis in the world by population with 16,753,265 inhabitants in the Territory at the 2011 Census...
, India
India
India , officially the Republic of India , is a country in South Asia. It is the seventh-largest country by geographical area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world...
, was founded as Shahjahanabad (Hindi: शाहजहानाबाद, Urdu: شاہجہان آباد) by Mughal Emperor Shahjahan in 1639. It remained the capital of the Mughals
Mughal Empire
The Mughal Empire , or Mogul Empire in traditional English usage, was an imperial power from the Indian Subcontinent. The Mughal emperors were descendants of the Timurids...
until the end of the Mughal dynasty.
It was once filled with mansions of nobles and members of the royal court, along with elegant mosques and gardens. Today, despite having become extremely crowded and dilapidated, it still serves as the symbolic heart of metropolitan Delhi.
History
The site of Shahjahanabad is north of earlier settlements of Delhi, its southern part overlaps some of the area settled during the Tughlaqs in 14th century, when it was the seat of Delhi SultanateDelhi Sultanate
The Delhi Sultanate is a term used to cover five short-lived, Delhi based kingdoms or sultanates, of Turkic origin in medieval India. The sultanates ruled from Delhi between 1206 and 1526, when the last was replaced by the Mughal dynasty...
. The sultanates ruled from Delhi
Delhi
Delhi , officially National Capital Territory of Delhi , is the largest metropolis by area and the second-largest by population in India, next to Mumbai. It is the eighth largest metropolis in the world by population with 16,753,265 inhabitants in the Territory at the 2011 Census...
between 1206 and 1526, when the last was replaced by the Mughal dynasty. The five dynasties were the Mamluk dynasty (1206–90); the Khilji dynasty
Khilji dynasty
The Khilji Sultanate was a dynasty of Turko-Afghan Khalaj origin who ruled large parts of South Asia from 1290 - 1320. They were the second dynasty to rule the Delhi Sultanate of India...
(1290–1320); the Tughlaq dynasty
Tughlaq dynasty
The Tughlaq dynasty of north India started in 1321 in Delhi when Ghazi Malik assumed the throne under the title of Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq. The Tughluqs were a Muslim family of Turkic origin...
(1320–1414); the Sayyid dynasty
Sayyid dynasty
The Sayyid dynasty ruled Delhi sultanate in India from 1414 to 1451. They succeeded the Tughlaq dynasty and ruled that sultanate until they were displaced by the Lodi dynasty.This family claimed to be Sayyids, or descendants of Prophet Muhammad...
(1414–51); and the Lodi dynasty (1451–1526).
Delhi remained the an important place for the Mughals, they built palaces and forts here. Most importantly, it was Shah Jahan
Shah Jahan
Shah Jahan Shah Jahan (also spelled Shah Jehan, Shahjehan, , Persian: شاه جهان) (January 5, 1592 – January 22, 1666) Shah Jahan (also spelled Shah Jehan, Shahjehan, , Persian: شاه جهان) (January 5, 1592 – January 22, 1666) (Full title: His Imperial Majesty Al-Sultan al-'Azam wal Khaqan...
, who built the walled city built from 1638 to 1649, containing the Lal Qila
Lal Qila
Lal Qila known in English as Red Fort, refers to the Mughal residences in either Delhi or Agra. The name Lal Qila or Red Fort is shared by:* Delhi Fort* Agra Fort...
and the Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk , originally meaning moonlit square or market, is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, now in central north Delhi, India...
. Daryaganj
Daryaganj
Daryaganj, also called Darya Ganj , is a neighbourhood of Delhi inside the walled city of Shahjahanabad . The "darya" refers to the river Yamuna which was just outside the walled city...
had the original cantonment
Cantonment
A cantonment is a temporary or semi-permanent military or police quarters. The word cantonment is derived from the French word canton meaning corner or district, as is the name of the Cantons of Switzerland. In South Asia, the term cantonment also describes permanent military stations...
of Delhi, after 1803, where a native regiment of Delhi garrison
Garrison
Garrison is the collective term for a body of troops stationed in a particular location, originally to guard it, but now often simply using it as a home base....
was stationed, which was later shifted to Ridge area. East of Daryaganj was Raj ghat Gate of the walled city, opening at Raj Ghat on Yamuna River. First wholesale market of Old Delhi opened as the hardware market in Chawri Bazar in 1840, the next wholesale market was that of dry fruits, spices and herbs at Khari Baoli
Khari Baoli
Khari Baoli is a street in Old Delhi, India known for its wholesale grocery and Asia’s largest wholesale spice market selling all kinds of spices, nuts and herbs...
, opening in 1850. The Phool Mandi (Flower Market) of Daryaganj was established in 1869, and even today despite serving a small geographical area, it is of great importance, due to dense population.
After the fall of the Mughal Empire
Mughal Empire
The Mughal Empire , or Mogul Empire in traditional English usage, was an imperial power from the Indian Subcontinent. The Mughal emperors were descendants of the Timurids...
post 1857 revolt, the British Raj
British Raj
British Raj was the British rule in the Indian subcontinent between 1858 and 1947; The term can also refer to the period of dominion...
shifted the capital of India, to a less volatile, Calcutta, where it remained until, 1911. After the announcement of the shifting capital from Calcutta to Delhi, 1911, the British developed Lutyens' Delhi
Lutyens' Delhi
Lutyens' Delhi is an area in Delhi, specifically New Delhi, India, named after the leading British architect Edwin Lutyens , who was responsible for much of the architectural design and building when India was part of the British Empire in the 1920s and 1930s...
(in modern New Delhi
New Delhi
New Delhi is the capital city of India. It serves as the centre of the Government of India and the Government of the National Capital Territory of Delhi. New Delhi is situated within the metropolis of Delhi. It is one of the nine districts of Delhi Union Territory. The total area of the city is...
) just south-west of Shahjahanabad, once the new city started coming the older city started being called Old Delhi in coming decade onwards, as New Delhi became the seat of national government, formally inaugurated in 1931. In the following years, as the walled city got more and more congested, other areas around it were developed, as till 1930s few people ventured outside the walled city.
Walls and gates
It is approximately shaped like a quarter cìrcle, with the Red Fort as the focal point. The old city was surrounded by a wall enclosing about 1500 acres (6.1 km²), with 14 gates:- Nigambodh Gate: northeast, leading to historic Nigambodh GhatNigambodh GhatNigambodh Ghat is a moderate-sized area on the banks of the Yamuna river coast in New Delhi, situated on the Ring Road, Delhi at the back of the historic Red Fort. It consists of a series of bathing and ceremonial stepped piers leading to the waters of the river...
on the Yamuna River - Kashmiri GateKashmiri Gate (Delhi)The Kashmiri Gate is a gate located in Delhi, it is the northern gate to the historic walled city of Delhi...
: north - Mori Gate: north
- Kabuli gate: west
- Lahori gate: west
- Ajmeri Gate: southeast, leading to Ghaziuddin Khan's Madrassa and Connaught PlaceConnaught Place, New DelhiConnaught Place Connaught Place Connaught Place (Hindi: कनॉट प्लेस, (officially Rajiv Chowk) is one of the largest financial, commercial and business centers in Delhi. It is often abbreviated as CP and houses the headquarters of several Indian firms. Its surroundings occupy a place of pride...
, a focal point in New Delhi. - Turkman Gate: southeast, close to some pre-Shahjahan remains which got enclosed within the walls, including the tomb of Hazrt Shah Turkman Bayabani.
- Delhi GateDelhi GateThe Delhi Gate is located within Walled City of Lahore in Lahore, Punjab, Pakistan. Delhi Gate was built during the Mughal period and is one of thirteen gates of the Inner City. The area near the gate is a historical place, in which a number of old buildings, havelis and markets are located...
: south leading to Feroz Shah KotlaFeroz Shah KotlaThe Feroz Shah Kotla or Kotla was originally a fortress built by Sultan Ferozshah Tughlaq to house his version of Delhi city called Ferozabad. A pristine polished sandstone pillar from the 3rd century B.C...
and what was then older habitation of Delhi.
The surrounding walls, 12 feet (3.7 m) wide and 26 feet (7.9 m) tall, originally of mud, were replaced by red stone in 1657. In the Mughal period, the gates were kept locked at night.
The walls have now largely disappeared, but most of the gates are still present. The township of old Delhi is still identifiable in a satellite image because of density of houses.
The famous Khooni Darwaza
Khooni Darwaza
Khooni Darwaza , also referred to as Lal Darwaza , is located near Delhi Gate, on the Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg in Delhi, India. It is one of the 13 surviving gates in Delhi...
south of Delhi Gate, was just outside the walled city, it was originally constructed by Sher Shah Suri
Sher Shah Suri
Sher Shah Suri , birth name Farid Khan, also known as Sher Khan , was the founder of the short-lived Sur Empire in northern India, with its capital at Delhi, before its demise in the hands of the resurgent Mughal Empire...
.
Streets and neighbourhoods
The main street, now termed Chandni ChowkChandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk , originally meaning moonlit square or market, is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, now in central north Delhi, India...
, runs from the Red Fort to Fatehpuri Masjid
Fatehpuri Masjid
Fatehpuri Masjid is a 17th-century mosque located at the western end of the oldest street of Delhi, Chandni Chowk. It thus counterbalances the Red Fort on the opposite end of Chandni Chowk...
. Originally a canal ran through the middle of the street.
North of the street, there is the mansion of Begum Samru, now called Bhagirath Palace.
South is the street is Dariba
Dariba
After crossing the Esplanade Road, a left turn just before Gurdwara Sisganj on the Chandni Chowk road will take to the 'Street of the Incomparable Pearl', Dariba Kalan...
, a dense residential area, beyond which is Jama Masjid
Jama Masjid, Delhi
The Masjid-i Jahān-Numā , commonly known as the Jama Masjid of Delhi, is the principal mosque of Old Delhi in India. Commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal,in the year 1644 CE and completed in the year 1658 AD, it is the largest and best-known mosque in India...
. Daryaganj
Daryaganj
Daryaganj, also called Darya Ganj , is a neighbourhood of Delhi inside the walled city of Shahjahanabad . The "darya" refers to the river Yamuna which was just outside the walled city...
is a section that used to border the river at Rajghat
Raj Ghat and associated memorials
Raj Ghat is a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi. Originally it was the name of a historic ghat of Old Delhi on the banks of Yamuna river. Close to it, and east of Daryaganj was “Raj Ghat Gate” of the walled city, opening at Raj Ghat on Yamuna River. Later the memorial area was also called Raj ghat...
and Zeenat-ul-Masajid.
The language Urdu
Urdu
Urdu is a register of the Hindustani language that is identified with Muslims in South Asia. It belongs to the Indo-European family. Urdu is the national language and lingua franca of Pakistan. It is also widely spoken in some regions of India, where it is one of the 22 scheduled languages and an...
emerged from the Urdu Bazar
Urdu Bazar
The Urdu Bazar was a major market in the walled city of Delhi, India that connected the canal in the middle of Chandni Chowk to Jama Masjid. The original market was destroyed in the aftermath of Indian Rebellion of 1857, but its name survives as a location near the Jama Masjid. The Urdu language...
section of Old Delhi. The Din Dunia magazine and various other Urdu publications are the reason of this language staying alive.
Its main arteries are
- Netaji Subhash Marg/Bahadur Shah Zafar Marg leading to India GateIndia GateThe India Gate is the national monument of India. Situated in the heart of New Delhi, India Gate was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, inspired by the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. It was built in 1931...
(north and south) - Chandni ChowkChandni ChowkChandni Chowk , originally meaning moonlit square or market, is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, now in central north Delhi, India...
/Khari Bawli Road (east and west)
Old Delhi is approximately bounded by these modern roads (Google map)
- Gokhle Marg (south)
- Mahatma Gandhi Marg road (east)
- Shraddhananda Rd (west)
- Jawaharlal Nehru Marg (south)
The New Delhi originally referred to the newer sections of Delhï (sometimes termed Lutyens' Delhi
Lutyens' Delhi
Lutyens' Delhi is an area in Delhi, specifically New Delhi, India, named after the leading British architect Edwin Lutyens , who was responsible for much of the architectural design and building when India was part of the British Empire in the 1920s and 1930s...
) developed during the British administration by Edward Lutyens in 1929 and officially inaugurated in 1931.
Old Delhi in 1876
Of the two streets described by Bernier, the longer extended from the Lahore Gate of the city to the Lahore Gate of the citadel, and the other from the Delhi Gate of the city to the Lahore Gate of the fort. Both these streets were divided into several sections, each of which was known by a different name.
The section between the Lahore Gate of the fort and the entrance of the street called the Dariba
Dariba
After crossing the Esplanade Road, a left turn just before Gurdwara Sisganj on the Chandni Chowk road will take to the 'Street of the Incomparable Pearl', Dariba Kalan...
, known as the Khuni Darwazah, was called the Urdu or the Military Bazaar; owing, very probably, to the circumstances of a portion of the local garrison having been once quartered about the place. Between the Khuni Darwazah and the present Kotwali, or the Head Police Station of the city, the street has the name of Phul ka Mandi or the flower market. The houses in front of the Kotwali were built at a short distance from the line of the rest of the houses in the street, so as to form a square.
Between the Kotwali and the gate known as the Taraiah, was the Jauhari or the Jewellers' Bazaar; between the Taraiah and the neighbourhood known as Asharfi ka Katra, was, par excellence, the Chandni Chauk. There was a tank in the centre of the Chauk the site of which is now occupied by the Municipal Clock Tower, and beyond this to the Fatehpuri Masjid
Fatehpuri Masjid
Fatehpuri Masjid is a 17th-century mosque located at the western end of the oldest street of Delhi, Chandni Chowk. It thus counterbalances the Red Fort on the opposite end of Chandni Chowk...
was the Fatehpuri Bazaar. The houses round Chandni Chauk were of the same height, and were ornamented with arched doors and painted verandahs. To the north and south of the square there were two gate-ways, the former leading to the Sarai of Jahanara Begam, and the latter to one of the most thickly populated quarters of the city. Round the tank the ground was literally covered with vegetable, fruit, and sweetmeat stalls. In the course of time the whole of this long street came to be known as the Chandni Chauk.
This grand street was laid out by Jahanara Begam, daughter of Shah Jahan. From the Lahore Gate of the fort to the end of the Chandni Chauk the street was about 40 yards wide and 1,520 yards long. Through the centre of this street ran the canal of 'Ali Mardan, shaded on both sides by trees. On the eastern end of the Chandni Chauk stands the Lahore Gate of the Fort, and on the opposite end the handsome mosque of Fatehpuri Begam).
The clock tower no longer exists. The Sarai of Jehan Ara Begum
Jehan Ara Begum
Begum Sahib was the daughter of the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, and his third, and most favorite, wife, Mumtaz Mahal.Emperor Shahjahan’s fondness for his daughter was reflected in the multiple titles he bestowed upon her, which include Sahibat al-Zamani , and Padshah Begum...
has been replaced by the city hall. The kotwali is now adjacent to Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib
Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib
Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, is one of the nine historical gurdwaras in Delhi. First established in 1783 by Baghel Singh to commemorate the martyrdom site the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur...
.
Historical spots
Many of the historical attractions are in the Chandni ChowkChandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk , originally meaning moonlit square or market, is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, now in central north Delhi, India...
area and the Red Fort. In addition, Old Delhi also has:
- Ghalib Ki Haveli that is in Ballimaran is famous for Mirza Asadullah Khan Ghalib, the renowned urdu and persian poet.
- Gali Qasim JanQasim JanNawab Qasim Jan was a courtier in the royal courts of Mughal Delhi . He first lived in Lahore, attached to the court of the Governor, Moin-ul-Mulk, in the 1750s, thereafter he moved to Delhi, and joined the court of Delhi, in reign of Mughal Emperor, Shah Alam II Nawab Qasim Jan was a courtier in...
that is in Ballimaran is famous for Mirza GhalibMirza GhalibDabir-ul-Mulk, Najm-ud-Daula Mirza Asadullah Baig Khan , pen-name Ghalib and Asad , was a classical Urdu and Persian poet from India during British colonial rule...
's haveliHaveliHaveli is the term used for a private mansion in India and Pakistan. The word haveli is derived from the Persian word hawli, meaning "an enclosed place"...
, and that of Hakim Ajmal KhanHakim Ajmal KhanAjmal Khan was an Indian physician specialising in the field of South Asian traditional Unani medicine as well as a Muslim nationalist politician and freedom fighter. Through his founding of the Tibbia College in Delhi, he is credited with the revival of Unani medicine in early 20th century... - Razia SultanaRazia SultanaRazia al-Din , throne name Jalâlat ud-Dîn Raziyâ , usually referred to in history as Razia Sultan, was the Sultan of Delhi in India from 1236 to May 1240. She was of Seljuq slave ancestry and like some other Muslim princesses of the time, she was trained to lead armies and administer kingdoms if...
's (Delhi's only female ruler before Indira GandhiIndira GandhiIndira Priyadarshini Gandhara was an Indian politician who served as the third Prime Minister of India for three consecutive terms and a fourth term . She was assassinated by Sikh extremists...
) tomb near Kalan Masjid - Jama MasjidJama Masjid, DelhiThe Masjid-i Jahān-Numā , commonly known as the Jama Masjid of Delhi, is the principal mosque of Old Delhi in India. Commissioned by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal,in the year 1644 CE and completed in the year 1658 AD, it is the largest and best-known mosque in India...
, India's largest mosque - Fatehpuri MasjidFatehpuri MasjidFatehpuri Masjid is a 17th-century mosque located at the western end of the oldest street of Delhi, Chandni Chowk. It thus counterbalances the Red Fort on the opposite end of Chandni Chowk...
- Khari BaoliKhari BaoliKhari Baoli is a street in Old Delhi, India known for its wholesale grocery and Asia’s largest wholesale spice market selling all kinds of spices, nuts and herbs...
, Asia's biggest spice market - Zinat-ul Masjid, Daryaganj built in 1710 by one of Aurangzeb's daughters
- RajghatRaj Ghat and associated memorialsRaj Ghat is a memorial to Mahatma Gandhi. Originally it was the name of a historic ghat of Old Delhi on the banks of Yamuna river. Close to it, and east of Daryaganj was “Raj Ghat Gate” of the walled city, opening at Raj Ghat on Yamuna River. Later the memorial area was also called Raj ghat...
, Mahatma GandhiMahatma GandhiMohandas Karamchand Gandhi , pronounced . 2 October 1869 – 30 January 1948) was the pre-eminent political and ideological leader of India during the Indian independence movement...
's cremation site memorial - St. James ChurchSt. James' Church, DelhiSt. James' is an Anglican church in Delhi, India, built in 1836 by Colonel James Skinner. It is one of the oldest churches in the city, and part of the Church of North India Diocese of Delhi ....
(near Kashmiri GateKashmiri Gate (Delhi)The Kashmiri Gate is a gate located in Delhi, it is the northern gate to the historic walled city of Delhi...
) built in 1836, Delhi's oldest church, built by Col. James SkinnerJames Skinner (soldier)James Skinner CB was an Anglo-Indian military adventurer in India, who became known as Sikandar Sahib later in life, and most known for two cavalry regiments he raised for the British, later known as 1st Skinner's Horse and 3rd Skinner's Horse at Hansi in 1803, which still are a part of the...
.
Some of the historical mansions include:
- Begum Samru's Palace of 1806 (see http://www.collectbritain.co.uk/personalisation/object.cfm?uid=019ADDOR0005475U00047VRB&largeimage=1#largeimage)now called Bhagirath Palace.
- Naughara mansions in Kinari Bazaar, 18th century Jain mansions.
- Khazanchi haveli
- Haveli of Mirza GhalibMirza GhalibDabir-ul-Mulk, Najm-ud-Daula Mirza Asadullah Baig Khan , pen-name Ghalib and Asad , was a classical Urdu and Persian poet from India during British colonial rule...
, Gali Qasim JanQasim JanNawab Qasim Jan was a courtier in the royal courts of Mughal Delhi . He first lived in Lahore, attached to the court of the Governor, Moin-ul-Mulk, in the 1750s, thereafter he moved to Delhi, and joined the court of Delhi, in reign of Mughal Emperor, Shah Alam II Nawab Qasim Jan was a courtier in...
that is in Ballimaran - Chunnamal haveliChunnamal haveliRai Lala Chunnamal ki Haveli is the only well-preserved haveli in the walled city of old Delhi in the Chandni Chowk area.Lala Chunnamal and his family were Khatri merchants of brocade and textiles during the Mughal period...
, Katra Neel - Haveli of Zinat Mahal, Lal Kuan Bazar
- Haksar Haveli, Bazar Sitaram, where Jawaharlal NehruJawaharlal NehruJawaharlal Nehru , often referred to with the epithet of Panditji, was an Indian statesman who became the first Prime Minister of independent India and became noted for his “neutralist” policies in foreign affairs. He was also one of the principal leaders of India’s independence movement in the...
was married in 1916 to Kamla Nehru. - Haveli Naharwali, Kucha Sadullah Khan, where Pervez MusharrafPervez MusharrafPervez Musharraf , is a retired four-star general who served as the 13th Chief of Army Staff and tenth President of Pakistan as well as tenth Chairman of the Joint Chiefs of Staff Committee. Musharraf headed and led an administrative military government from October 1999 till August 2007. He ruled...
, former president of Pakistan was born
Old Delhi Cuisine
Old Delhi is well known for its cuisine, both vegetarian and Mughlai cuisineMughlai cuisine
Mughlai cuisine is a style of cookery developed in the Indian Subcontinent by the imperial kitchens of the Mughal Empire. It represents the cooking style used in Uttar Pradesh, Delhi, Pakistan and in parts of Dhaka in Bangladesh and Hyderabad in Andhra Pradesh...
. Chandni Chowk is home to the famous Gali Paranthe Wali and Ghantewala
Ghantewala
The Ghantewala Halwai in Chandni Chowk in Delhi, established in 1790 CE is one of the oldest halwais in India It has catered to Mughal Emperors, Presidents and Prime Ministers of India.-History:...
halwai
Halwai
The Halwai are a ethnic group found in India and Pakistan. The Arabic word Halwa means sweet and Halvai or Halwai means sweet-maker. In Pakistan they are considered a community while in India they are considered a caste. They are also known as Mithaya in Madhya Pradesh, Gudia in Orissa, Mayara in...
.
Old Delhi is the home to legendary Mughlai restaurants such as Karim's (located in Jama Masjid area) and the Moti Mahal (located in Darya Ganj). There are a plenty of other restaurants in Muslim areas of Old Delhi such as Jama Masjid, Balli Maran, and Chitli Qabar that sell mouth-watering, spicy Mughlai delicacies such as Tandoori Chicken, Butter Chicken, Nahari, Korma, Biryani, Seekh Kebabs, etc.
Old Delhi is also famous for its street food. Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk
Chandni Chowk , originally meaning moonlit square or market, is one of the oldest and busiest markets in Old Delhi, now in central north Delhi, India...
and Chawri Bazaar
Chawri Bazaar
Chawri Bazar is a specialized wholesale market of brass, copper and paper products. Established in 1840, with a hardware market, it was the first wholesale market of Old Delhi it lies to the west of Jama Masjid in Delhi, lies....
areas have many street joints that sell spicy chaat (tangy and spicy snacks).
Further reading
- Delhi, the emperor's city: rediscovering Chandni Chowk and its environs, by Vijay Goel. Lustre Press, 2003. ISBN 8174362401.