Silver age of alpinism
Encyclopedia
The silver age of alpinism is the name given to the era in mountaineering
that began after Edward Whymper
and party's ascent of the Matterhorn
in 1865 and ended with W. W. Graham
and party's ascent of the Dent du Géant
in 1882.
Whilst the Golden age of alpinism
(1854–1865) was characterised by the first ascent
s of many of the Alps
's most dominant mountains, the subsequent silver age may be seen as consisting of the first ascents of the many worthwhile peaks left unclimbed, although these peaks were – and remained – largely unknown to the wider public in Great Britain.
Once these peaks had been climbed, many ambitious alpinists turned their attention to more distant and often loftier ranges, such as the Caucasus
, the Andes
, the Rockies
and, latterly, the Himalayas
.
Prominent alpinists and guides of the period include Christian Almer
, Melchior Anderegg
, Hermann von Barth
, Alexander Burgener, W. A. B. Coolidge
, Clinton Thomas Dent
, James Eccles
, D. W. Freshfield
, Paul Grohmann
, Paul Güssfeldt
, A. W. Moore, Albert F. Mummery
, Julius Payer and William Penhall
.
Mountaineering
Mountaineering or mountain climbing is the sport, hobby or profession of hiking, skiing, and climbing mountains. While mountaineering began as attempts to reach the highest point of unclimbed mountains it has branched into specialisations that address different aspects of the mountain and consists...
that began after Edward Whymper
Edward Whymper
Edward Whymper , was an English illustrator, climber and explorer best known for the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865. On the descent four members of the party were killed.-Early life:...
and party's ascent of the Matterhorn
Matterhorn
The Matterhorn , Monte Cervino or Mont Cervin , is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Its summit is 4,478 metres high, making it one of the highest peaks in the Alps. The four steep faces, rising above the surrounding glaciers, face the four compass points...
in 1865 and ended with W. W. Graham
William Woodman Graham
William Woodman Graham was a British mountaineer who led the first pure mountaineering expedition to the Himalayas and may have set a world altitude record on Kabru....
and party's ascent of the Dent du Géant
Dent du Géant
The Dent du Géant is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in France and Italy.The mountain has two summits, eighty-eight feet apart and separated by a small col :*Pointe Graham , first ascent by W. W...
in 1882.
Whilst the Golden age of alpinism
Golden age of alpinism
The golden age of alpinism was the period between Alfred Wills's ascent of the Wetterhorn in 1854 and Edward Whymper's ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865, during which many major peaks in the Alps saw their first ascents....
(1854–1865) was characterised by the first ascent
First ascent
In climbing, a first ascent is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain, or the first to follow a particular climbing route...
s of many of the Alps
Alps
The Alps is one of the great mountain range systems of Europe, stretching from Austria and Slovenia in the east through Italy, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Germany to France in the west....
's most dominant mountains, the subsequent silver age may be seen as consisting of the first ascents of the many worthwhile peaks left unclimbed, although these peaks were – and remained – largely unknown to the wider public in Great Britain.
Once these peaks had been climbed, many ambitious alpinists turned their attention to more distant and often loftier ranges, such as the Caucasus
Caucasus
The Caucasus, also Caucas or Caucasia , is a geopolitical region at the border of Europe and Asia, and situated between the Black and the Caspian sea...
, the Andes
Andes
The Andes is the world's longest continental mountain range. It is a continual range of highlands along the western coast of South America. This range is about long, about to wide , and of an average height of about .Along its length, the Andes is split into several ranges, which are separated...
, the Rockies
Rocky Mountains
The Rocky Mountains are a major mountain range in western North America. The Rocky Mountains stretch more than from the northernmost part of British Columbia, in western Canada, to New Mexico, in the southwestern United States...
and, latterly, the Himalayas
Himalayas
The Himalaya Range or Himalaya Mountains Sanskrit: Devanagari: हिमालय, literally "abode of snow"), usually called the Himalayas or Himalaya for short, is a mountain range in Asia, separating the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau...
.
Prominent alpinists and guides of the period include Christian Almer
Christian Almer
thumb|220px|Christian AlmerChristian Almer was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism....
, Melchior Anderegg
Melchior Anderegg
Melchior Anderegg , from Zaun, Meiringen, was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascensionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism...
, Hermann von Barth
Hermann von Barth
Hermann von Barth was a famous German mountaineer.Hermann von Barth was born on 5 June 1845 at Eurasburg Castle. He initially studied law in Munich, where he was affiliated to the Corps Franconia. As a junior lawyer he began in 1868 in Berchtesgaden to explore the still largely unconquered...
, Alexander Burgener, W. A. B. Coolidge
W. A. B. Coolidge
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge was an American historian, theologian and mountaineer.Coolidge was born in New York as the son of Frederic William Skinner Coolidge, a Boston merchant, and Elisabeth Neville Brevoort of the Netherlands. He studied history and law at St...
, Clinton Thomas Dent
Clinton Thomas Dent
Clinton Thomas Dent FRCS was an English surgeon, author and mountaineer.-Early life:The fourth surviving son of Thomas Dent, he was educated at Eton College and Trinity College, Cambridge.-Alpinism:...
, James Eccles
James Eccles
James Eccles FGS was an English mountaineer and geologist who is noted for making a number of first ascents in the Alps during the silver age of alpinism.-Life:...
, D. W. Freshfield
Douglas Freshfield
Douglas William Freshfield was a British lawyer, mountaineer and author, who edited the Alpine Journal from 1872 to 1880...
, Paul Grohmann
Paul Grohmann
Paul Grohmann was an Austrian mountaineer and writer.-Biography:Gorhmann was born in Vienna.Grohmann was a pioneer in exploring technically challenging mountains and is thought to have made more first ascents of Eastern Alps summits than anyone else. Among these are the four highest summits in...
, Paul Güssfeldt
Paul Güssfeldt
Dr Paul Güssfeldt was a German geologist, mountaineer and explorer.-Biography:Güssfeldt was born in Berlin, where he also died almost 80 years later...
, A. W. Moore, Albert F. Mummery
Albert F. Mummery
Albert Frederick Mummery , was an English mountaineer and author. Although most notable for his many and varied first ascents put up in the Alps, Mummery, along with J...
, Julius Payer and William Penhall
William Penhall
William Penhall was an English mountaineer.-Life and family:The son of Dr John Penhall MRCS LSA , Penhall was educated at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he graduated BA in 1881...
.
First ascents in the silver age
- 1865 Aiguille du ChardonnetAiguille du ChardonnetThe Aiguille du Chardonnet is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France....
, BreithornBreithorn (Lauterbrunnen)The Lauterbrunnen Breithorn is a mountain in the Bernese Alps of Switzerland, situated at the western end of the Lauterbrunnen Wall.-External links:*...
, Cima TosaBrenta GroupThe Brenta Group is a mountain range of the Rhaetian Alps. It is located in the Italian province of Trentino.The Brenta Group is separated from the Ortler Alps in the north by the Noce valley; from the Adamello-Presanella group in the west by the Campo Carlo Magno Pass and the river Sarca; from...
, DammastockDammastockThe Dammastock is the highest mountain in the Urner Alps in Switzerland. Its summit ridge forms the border between the cantons of Uri and the Valais. It is the highest summit in the canton of Uri...
, GrünhornGrünhornThe Grünhorn is a mountain in the Bernese Alps range of the Swiss Alps. It is located on the ridge between the two largest glaciers of the Alps: the Aletsch Glacier to the west and the Fiescher Glacier to the east...
, HochfeilerHochfeilerThe Hochfeiler is a mountain in the Zillertal Alps on the border between Tyrol, Austria, and South Tyrol, Italy.- References :* Heinrich Klier, Walter Klier: Alpenvereinsführer Zillertaler Alpen, Rother Verlag München , ISBN 3-7633-1269-2...
, Monte Cristallo, NesthornNesthornThe Nesthorn is a mountain in the Bernese Alps. It is located in the Swiss canton of Valais north of Brig. The mountain lies between the Oberaletsch Glacier on the north and east side and the Gredetschtal on the south side. It is part of the subrange of the Bernese Alps that culminates at the...
, TschingelhornTschingelhornThe Tschingelhorn is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland.The first ascent was made by Heinrich Feuz, W. H. Hawker, and Ulrich and Christian Lauener on 6 September 1865.W. A. B. Coolidge's dog 'Tschingel' The Tschingelhorn (3,562 m) is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland.The...
, VertainspitzeVertainspitze- References :* Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen, 9. Auflage, München 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1313-3* Julius Payer: Die Südlichen Ortler-Alpen, Justus Perthes, Gotha 1865, Ergänzungsheft 18, Seite 7, zu Dr. August Petermanns Geographischen Mittheilungen* Eduard Richter : Die Erschließung der... - 1866 DreiherrnspitzeDreiherrnspitzeThe Dreiherrnspitze is a mountain on the border between Salzburg, Tyrol, both Austria, and South Tyrol, Italy.- References :*Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe, München 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1242-0...
, Großlitzner, Monte ZebrùMonte ZebrùMonte Zebrù is a mountain of Lombardy, Italy....
, Piz CengaloPiz CengaloPiz Cengalo is a mountain in the Bregaglia range of the Alps on the border between the Swiss canton of Graubünden and Italy.The first ascent of the mountain was by D. W. Freshfield and C. Comyns Tucker with guide F...
, Piz PlattaPiz PlattaPiz Platta is the highest peak in the Oberhalbstein Range, located in Graubünden, Switzerland. It is 3392 metres high , and is notable for its similarity in shape to the Matterhorn.-External links:*...
, Piz PalüPiz PalüPiz Palü is a mountain in the Bernina Range in Switzerland and Italy. There are three summits on its main ridge, which runs from east to west...
(1868?) - 1867 Cima PiazziCima PiazziCima Piazzi, Cima de' Piazzi, del Piazzi or di Piazzi is the highest mountain of the Livigno Range in Lombardy, Italy....
, Civetta, GletscherhornGletscherhornThe Gletscherhorn is a mountain to the south of the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps. It forms the eastern edge of the Lauterbrunnen Wall....
, OlpererOlpererThe Olperer is a 3,476 metre high mountain in the Zillertal Alps in the Austrian federal state of Tyrol. It is the main summit on the Tux Crest and is often crossed in the summer as climbers transit from the Olperer Hut to the Geraer Hut. It was first climbed on 10 September 1867 along the...
, Piz BadilePiz BadilePiz Badile is a mountain in the Bregaglia range in the Swiss canton of Graubünden and Italy, the border between the two countries running along the summit ridge. Its northeast face is considered one of the six great north faces of the Alps....
, Pizzo Campo Tencia - 1868 BellavistaBellavista (mountain)Bellavista is a mountain in the Bernina Range in Switzerland and Italy. The mountain is bounded on the east by the Fuorcla Bellavista and on the west by the Pass dal Zupò...
, EbnefluhEbnefluhThe Ebnefluh is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland. It lies towards the eastern end of the Lauterbrunnen Wall.-External links:*...
, Grandes JorassesGrandes JorassesThe Grandes Jorasses is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif.The first ascent of the highest peak of the mountain was by Horace Walker with guides Melchior Anderegg, Johann Jaun and Julien Grange on 30 June 1868...
, HochgallHochgall- References :* Werner Beikircher: Rieserfernergruppe Bergverlag Rother, 1983. ISBN 3-7633-1227-7... - 1869 Dreischusterspitze, Ellmauer HaltEllmauer HaltThe Ellmauer Halt is the highest peak in the mountain massif of the Wilder Kaiser in the Kaisergebirge range in the Austrian state of Tyrol. To the east is the summit of the Kapuzenturm, a striking and isolated rock pinnacle...
, GspaltenhornGspaltenhornThe Gspaltenhorn is a mountain in the Bernese Alps....
, Große Zinne, Großes Seehorn, HochfrottspitzeHochfrottspitzeThe Hochfrottspitze is a 2,649 metre high mountain, made of dolomite, in the Allgäu Alps near Oberstdorf in Germany and the highest German mountain in the Allgäu Alps. The border with Austria runs along its ridge....
, HohberghornHohberghornThe Hohberghorn is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. It lies towards the northern end of the Nadelgrat, a high-level ridge running roughly north–south, north of the Dom, above the resort of Saas-Fee to the east, and the Mattertal to the west.It was first climbed by R. B...
, LangkofelLangkofelThe Langkofel is a mountain in the Dolomites in South Tyrol, Italy....
, ParseierspitzeParseierspitzeParseierspitze is, at 3,036 metres tall, the highest mountain of the Northern Limestone Alps and the only one that exceeds the 3,000 m mark. The peak consists of Radiolarite rocks preventing it from erosion....
, ThurwieserspitzeThurwieserspitzeThe Thurwieserspitze is a mountain in the Ortler Alps on the border between South Tyrol and the Province of Sondrio, Italy.- References :* Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen, 9...
, WatzespitzeWatzespitzeThe Watzespitze or Waze is the highest mountain in the Kaunergrat group of the Ötztal Alps. It is located in Austria.... - 1870 AilefroideAilefroideThe Ailefroide is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins in the French Alps, and is the third highest peak in the Dauphiné Alps after the Barre des Écrins and La Meije. It lies at the south-western end of the Mont Pelvoux–Pic Sans Nom–Ailefroide ridge....
, Cimon della PalaCimon della PalaCimon della Pala, sometimes called Cimone and The Matterhorn of the Dolomites , is the best-known peak of the Pale di San Martino group, in the Dolomites, northern Italy...
, LenzspitzeLenzspitzeThe Lenzspitze is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. It is the southernmost peak on the Nadelgrat, a high-level ridge running roughly north–south, north of Dom in the Mischabel range, above the resort of Saas Fee to the east, and the Mattertal to the west.It was first climbed in August... - 1871 Aiguille du PlanAiguille du PlanThe Aiguille du Plan is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps. Its needle-like summit lies in the centre of the Chamonix Aiguilles when viewed from Chamonix.- External links :*...
, DreitorspitzeDreitorspitzeDreitorspitze is a large and very prominent, multi-peak mountain massif in the eastern part of the Wetterstein Mountains in southern Germany. It is divided into Partenkirchen Dreitorspitze at and Leutasch Dreitorspitze at ; each of which has several peaks...
, PortjengratPortjengratPortjengrat is a mountain in the Pennine Alps on the Swiss-Italian border. It is the highest peak in the Val d'Ossola-External links:*...
, WaxensteinWaxensteinWaxenstein is a mountain of Bavaria, Germany.... - 1872 GlocknerwandGlocknerwandThe Glocknerwand is a mountain in the Glockner Group in the Austrian Central Alps in the central region of the High Tauern. According to the literature it is 3,721 metres high, but the Austria Federal Office for Metrology and Survey gives its height as 3,722 metres...
, Trafoier EiswandTrafoier EiswandThe Trafoier Eiswand is a mountain in the Ortler Alps on the border between South Tyrol and the Province of Sondrio, Italy.- References :* Peter Holl: Alpenvereinsführer Ortleralpen, 9...
, VezzanaVezzanaThe Vezzana is the highest peak in the Pale di San Martino, a mountain group in the Dolomites, northern Italy. It is located in the northern part of the Dolomites, between the Agordino and Primiero . It has an altitude of 3,192 metres.The peak is flanked by that of the Cimon della Pala... - 1873 Aiguille de RochefortAiguille de RochefortThe Aiguille de Rochefort is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in France and Italy. The peak lies on the Rochefort arête between the Dent du Géant and the Grandes Jorasses and is usually climbed during a traverse of the ridge....
, Hinterer Brunnenkogel, Le RâteauLe RâteauLe Râteau is a mountain in the French Alps. Located in the Massif des Écrins, the mountain is tall.The mountain overlooks the valley of the Romanche river and the village of La Grave to the north... - 1874 Aiguille de TrioletAiguille de TrioletThe Aiguille de Triolet is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in France and Italy.-External links:*...
, Pflerscher Tribulaun, RosengartenspitzeRosengartenspitze- External links :*...
, ZwölferkofelZwölferkofelThe Zwölferkofel or Zwölfer is a peak of the Sexten Dolomites on the border between the provinces South Tyrol and Belluno, in Italy.... - 1875 Roche de la MuzelleRoche de la Muzelle- Guides :* Le massif des ecrins - les 100 plus belles courses et randonnées, by Gaston Rebuffat...
, Sass Maor - 1876 Aiguille du Plat de la SelleAiguille du Plat de la SelleThe Aiguille du Plat de la Selle, 3,596 m, is a mountain in the Soreiller group of the Dauphiné Alps in south-eastern France. Ascents of the mountain are via Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans or the Soreiller hut.-External links:*...
, Les DroitesLes DroitesLes Droites is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps and is the lowest of the 4000-metre peaks in the Alps. The mountain has two summits:* West summit , first ascent by W. A. B...
, Mont CollonMont CollonMont Collon is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. Its glaciated north face dominates the view south from the village of Arolla.The first ascent was made by A. Cust and F. Gardiner with guides H. and P. Knubel on 3 August 1876.... - 1877 MeijeMeijeLa Meije is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins range, located at the border of the Hautes-Alpes and Isère départements. It overlooks the nearby village of La Grave, a mountaineering centre and ski resort, well-known for its off-piste and extreme skiing possibilities.La Meije is composed of three...
, Mont Blanc de CourmayeurMont Blanc de CourmayeurMont Blanc de Courmayeur , in the Italian part of the Mont Blanc massif, is the second-highest peak in the Alps....
, Pic Coolidge, Piz ScerscenPiz ScerscenPiz Scerscen is a mountain in the Bernina Range in Switzerland and Italy, joining the neighbouring Piz Bernina by its north-east ridge via a 3,895 m pass... - 1878 Aiguilles d'ArvesAiguilles d'ArvesThe Aiguilles d’Arves is a mountain in the Arves massif in the French Alps. The mountain, comprising three separate peaks , is the highest point of the massif, and is located in the department of Savoie.- Geography :...
, Aiguille du DruAiguille du DruThe Aiguille du Dru is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps, lying to the east of the village of Les Praz in the Chamonix valley.The mountain has two summits:...
, ElferkofelElferkofel- References :*Richard Goedeke: Sextener Dolomiten. Bergverlag Rother, 1988. ISBN 3-7633-1255-2...
, Les BansLes BansLes Bans is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins in the Dauphiné Alps, first climbed by W. A. B. Coolidge, Christian Almer and U. Almer on July 14, 1878.There are three main summits on the mountain:* South summit 3,669 m* North-west summit 3,630 m...
, Mont MauditMont MauditMont Maudit is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in France and Italy. Until the end of the 18th century, Mont Blanc and its satellite peaks were collectively known in French as the Montagne Maudite....
, Sextener RotwandSextener RotwandThe Sextener Rotwand or Zehner is a mountain in the Sexten Dolomites in South Tyrol, Italy.- References :* Richard Goedeke: Sextener Dolomiten. Bergverlag Rother, 1988. ISBN 3-7633-1255-2- External links :... - 1879 Cima Ovest, DürrenhornDürrenhornThe Dürrenhorn is a summit in the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. It lies towards the northern end of the Nadelgrat, a high-level ridge running roughly north–south above the resort of Saas-Fee to the east, and the Mattertal to the west. It is part of the Mischabel range, which culminates at the Dom...
, Monte ArgenteraMonte ArgenteraMonte Argentera is a mountain in the Maritime Alps, in the province of Cuneo, Piedmont, northern Italy. With an elevation of , it is the highest peak in the range.... - 1880 Aiguille des Grands CharmozAiguille des Grands CharmozThe Aiguille des Grands Charmoz is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France....
, Fußstein, Grohmannspitze, OlanOlan (mountain)The Olan is a mountain in the Massif des Écrins in the French Alps. It dominates the valleys of Valgaudemar, Valjouffrey, and Vénéon in the heart of Écrins National Park.- Climbing :... - 1881 Aiguille du GréponAiguille du GréponThe Aiguille du Grépon is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France....
, Dôme de RochefortDôme de RochefortThe Dôme de Rochefort is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, France and of Aosta Valley, Italy....
, Kleine Zinne, TotenkirchlTotenkirchlThe Totenkirchl is mountain, 2,190 m high, in the Wilder Kaiser range in the Northern Limestone Alps in Austria, east of Kufstein in Tyrol.... - 1882 Dent du GéantDent du GéantThe Dent du Géant is a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in France and Italy.The mountain has two summits, eighty-eight feet apart and separated by a small col :*Pointe Graham , first ascent by W. W...
, PaternkofelPaternkofelThe Paternkofel is a mountain in the Dolomites on the border between South Tyrol and the Province of Belluno, Italy.- References :* Richard Goedeke: Sextener Dolomiten. Bergverlag Rother, 1988. ISBN 3-7633-1255-2...