The Bluff (Atlanta)
Encyclopedia
The Bluff is an approximately 1.5-mile-square neighborhood northwest of Downtown Atlanta
. The Bluff is bounded by Donald L. Hollowell Parkway (formerly Bankhead Highway
) to the north, Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. (formerly Hunter St.) and the Atlanta University Center
to the south, Northside Dr. and Downtown Atlanta
to the east and Joseph E. Lowery Blvd. (formerly Ashby St.) to the west. Joseph E. Boone
Blvd. (until 2008 Simpson St.) divides the Bluff into the officially recognized neighborhoods of English Avenue
to the north of and Vine City to the south. The Bluff is nearly contiguous with NPU L.
The Bluff is infamous throughout metro Atlanta for the availability of drugs, heroin in particular. The neighborhood has some of the highest poverty and crime rates in the city, with the Carter St. area surrounding the Vine City MARTA station
ranking in 2010 as the #1 most dangerous neighborhood in Atlanta and #5 in the United States.
. It was developed as a white working-class neighborhood. Simpson Road was long a residential race barrier with whites to the north and blacks to the south. This area was known at different times as Bellwood and as Western Heights. In 1910 the Western Heights school (later renamed Kingbery after a principal of the school, then renamed English Avenue Elementary School) was built at the northeast corner of English Ave. and Pelham St.
Overcrowding in the neighborhood's school is documented as a serious issue from at least 1910 through 1946 (photo), notwithstanding multiple expansions of the facility.
The area south of Simpson Road was settled at the end of the 1800s by large land owners, and a predominantly African-American residential area was established, though there were also white subdivisions, schools, and churches. A mix of social classes were present. In 1910 Alonzo F. Herndon, founder of the Atlanta Life Insurance Company, built his home at 587 University Place.
contributed to the already great need for housing for African Americans and by the 1920s-1940s, despite violence and bombings trying to prevent it, blacks started to move north across Simpson Road.
In 1941, the Eagan Homes and Herndon Homes public housing projects opened and as a result, the black population in the area increased. On Hunter Street (now Martin Luther King Jr. Drive), white business owners once lived behind their stores, but in the 1940's, black owners started taking over these businesses. In 1947 Paschal's
Restaurant, an Atlanta soul food
landmark and meeting place for civil rights leaders, opened in its original location on West Hunter Street. In 1951, the English Avenue Elementary School's designation was changed from white to black in response to most whites having moved out of the area.
, and was in its splendor in the 1960s. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. moved to the area in 1967, and his widow Coretta Scott King
continued to live here until her death.
In 1960, the English Avenue elementary school was dynamited, likely in retaliation for civil rights demonstrations by blacks. Mayor William B. Hartsfield
condemned the dynamiting as the work of those from outside Atlanta, "the outhouse set". The area experienced notable pro- and anti-Black Power
riots in 1966 and 1967.
started draining the area's vitality starting in the 1970s. Over the following decades, it attracted buyers and sellers of heroin, and deteriorated into a corner of poverty in the city, characterized by large numbers of abandoned, boarded-up houses.
In 1995 the English Avenue Elementary School closed.
In 2006, a "no-knock raid" in search of a drug dealer, burst into the home of Kathryn Johnston. Ms. Johnston, in her 80s, opened fire on the officers and wounded three and was killed by return fire from the officers. The incident resulted in much anger in the neighborhood and in close scrutiny of police use of "no-knock warrants" in drug raids.
's systematic replacement of public housing projects by mixed-income communities (MIC), Eagan Homes was demolished and the Magnolia Park MIC replaced it. Herndon Homes was demolished in 2011.
first announced plans for the "Historic Westside Village", a $130 million commercial, residential and retail project at the area's southern end near Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. at Ashby St. A Publix
supermarket opened in May 2002 but the overall project stalled by 2003 as further anchor tenants did not materialize. This, along with disappointing sales, caused the Publix - the only full-sized supermarket for miles around - to close in December 2009. Creative Loafing called the project the most notorious "municipal boondoggle...to have tarred Atlanta" during mayor Bill Campbell's era; the project "fell victim to...cronyism, bureaucratic incompetence and a flagrant disregard for federal lending guidelines". In December 2010 things looked up as the Atlanta Development Authority announced plans for Wal-Mart
to open a store on the site, which Mayor Kasim Reed
called "an end to the food desert in the area".
bought the English Avenue Elementary School with the intention to convert it into a "state of the art green technology global community center".
The 2008 tornado
caused major damage in areas of Vine City (photos).
In March 2011, NPU
L voted in favor of a Sunset Avenue Historic District
from Joseph E. Boone Blvd. southward to Magnolia Street.
rail Blue Line
and Green Line
at the Vine City
and Ashby
stations. Bus lines serving the neighborhood are the 3 along Martin Luther King, Jr. Drive, the 51 along Joseph E. Boone Blvd., and the 26 along Cameron M. Alexander Blvd. (known as Kennedy St. until 2010), English Avenue and Donald L. Hollowell Pkwy.
Downtown Atlanta
Downtown Atlanta is the first and largest of the three financial districts in the city of Atlanta. Downtown Atlanta is the location of many corporate or regional headquarters, city, county, state and federal government facilities, sporting facilities, and is the central tourist attraction of the city...
. The Bluff is bounded by Donald L. Hollowell Parkway (formerly Bankhead Highway
Bankhead Highway
The Bankhead Highway was a United States cross-country automobile highway connecting Washington, D.C. and San Diego. It was part of the National Auto Trail system. The road was named for Alabama politician John Hollis Bankhead, a leader in the early national road building movement. In later years,...
) to the north, Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. (formerly Hunter St.) and the Atlanta University Center
Atlanta University Center
The Atlanta University Center Consortium is the largest contiguous consortium of African Americans in higher education in the United States. The center consists of four historically black colleges and universities in southwest Atlanta, Georgia...
to the south, Northside Dr. and Downtown Atlanta
Downtown Atlanta
Downtown Atlanta is the first and largest of the three financial districts in the city of Atlanta. Downtown Atlanta is the location of many corporate or regional headquarters, city, county, state and federal government facilities, sporting facilities, and is the central tourist attraction of the city...
to the east and Joseph E. Lowery Blvd. (formerly Ashby St.) to the west. Joseph E. Boone
Joseph E. Boone
Rev. Joseph Everhart Boone was a civil rights activist and organizer who marched together with Martin Luther King Jr....
Blvd. (until 2008 Simpson St.) divides the Bluff into the officially recognized neighborhoods of English Avenue
English Avenue (Atlanta)
The English Avenue is a neighborhood of Atlanta just west of the Georgia Dome and Downtown Atlanta. It is bordered:* on the east by Gray St., the Southern Railway North Avenue Yards Historic District and Downtown Atlanta...
to the north of and Vine City to the south. The Bluff is nearly contiguous with NPU L.
The Bluff is infamous throughout metro Atlanta for the availability of drugs, heroin in particular. The neighborhood has some of the highest poverty and crime rates in the city, with the Carter St. area surrounding the Vine City MARTA station
Vine City (MARTA station)
Vine City is an at-grade train station on the Blue and part-time terminus station of Green lines of the Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority rail system. It is one of only 2 stations served by the Green, and Blue lines at all times...
ranking in 2010 as the #1 most dangerous neighborhood in Atlanta and #5 in the United States.
Development
The area of the Bluff north of Simpson Road was purchased in 1891 by James W. English, Jr., son of Atlanta mayor James W. EnglishJames W. English
James Warren English was an American politician, bank president, and a staff officer during the American Civil War. He was a postbellum mayor of Atlanta, Georgia, from 1881 until 1883....
. It was developed as a white working-class neighborhood. Simpson Road was long a residential race barrier with whites to the north and blacks to the south. This area was known at different times as Bellwood and as Western Heights. In 1910 the Western Heights school (later renamed Kingbery after a principal of the school, then renamed English Avenue Elementary School) was built at the northeast corner of English Ave. and Pelham St.
Overcrowding in the neighborhood's school is documented as a serious issue from at least 1910 through 1946 (photo), notwithstanding multiple expansions of the facility.
The area south of Simpson Road was settled at the end of the 1800s by large land owners, and a predominantly African-American residential area was established, though there were also white subdivisions, schools, and churches. A mix of social classes were present. In 1910 Alonzo F. Herndon, founder of the Atlanta Life Insurance Company, built his home at 587 University Place.
Racial tension and transition
The Great Atlanta fire of 1917Great Atlanta fire of 1917
The Great Atlanta Fire of 1917 began just after noon on Monday, May 21 and was finally extinguished by 10 PM. Destroyed were 300 acres , including nearly 2,000 homes, businesses and churches, and 10,000 people were displaced. There was only one fatality, a woman who suffered a heart attack after...
contributed to the already great need for housing for African Americans and by the 1920s-1940s, despite violence and bombings trying to prevent it, blacks started to move north across Simpson Road.
In 1941, the Eagan Homes and Herndon Homes public housing projects opened and as a result, the black population in the area increased. On Hunter Street (now Martin Luther King Jr. Drive), white business owners once lived behind their stores, but in the 1940's, black owners started taking over these businesses. In 1947 Paschal's
Paschal's
Paschal's is an American company based in Atlanta, Georgia.It originated in 1947 with brothers Robert and James Paschal opening Paschal's Restaurant at 837 West Hunter Street. In 1959 it moved across the street to its current location, where many of the leaders of the American civil rights...
Restaurant, an Atlanta soul food
Soul food
Soul food cuisine consists of a selection of foods traditional in the cuisine of African Americans. It is closely related to the cuisine of the Southern United States...
landmark and meeting place for civil rights leaders, opened in its original location on West Hunter Street. In 1951, the English Avenue Elementary School's designation was changed from white to black in response to most whites having moved out of the area.
Heyday and Civil Rights
During the mid-20th century, the area was a middle-class African-American neighborhood. Commercial areas included English Avenue; Simpson Street/Road, in its heyday in the 1950s and 1960s; and Bankhead Highway, which was part of the US Highway systemUnited States Numbered Highways
The system of United States Numbered Highways is an integrated system of roads and highways in the United States numbered within a nationwide grid...
, and was in its splendor in the 1960s. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. moved to the area in 1967, and his widow Coretta Scott King
Coretta Scott King
Coretta Scott King was an American author, activist, and civil rights leader. The widow of Martin Luther King, Jr., Coretta Scott King helped lead the African-American Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s.Mrs...
continued to live here until her death.
In 1960, the English Avenue elementary school was dynamited, likely in retaliation for civil rights demonstrations by blacks. Mayor William B. Hartsfield
William B. Hartsfield
William Berry Hartsfield was an American politician. He was born in Atlanta, Georgia, and served as its 49th and 51st Mayor from 1937 to 1941 and again from 1942 to 1962, making him the longest-serving mayor in Atlanta history....
condemned the dynamiting as the work of those from outside Atlanta, "the outhouse set". The area experienced notable pro- and anti-Black Power
Black Power
Black Power is a political slogan and a name for various associated ideologies. It is used in the movement among people of Black African descent throughout the world, though primarily by African Americans in the United States...
riots in 1966 and 1967.
Decline and crime
SuburbanizationSuburbanization
Suburbanization a term used to describe the growth of areas on the fringes of major cities. It is one of the many causes of the increase in urban sprawl. Many residents of metropolitan regions work within the central urban area, choosing instead to live in satellite communities called suburbs...
started draining the area's vitality starting in the 1970s. Over the following decades, it attracted buyers and sellers of heroin, and deteriorated into a corner of poverty in the city, characterized by large numbers of abandoned, boarded-up houses.
In 1995 the English Avenue Elementary School closed.
In 2006, a "no-knock raid" in search of a drug dealer, burst into the home of Kathryn Johnston. Ms. Johnston, in her 80s, opened fire on the officers and wounded three and was killed by return fire from the officers. The incident resulted in much anger in the neighborhood and in close scrutiny of police use of "no-knock warrants" in drug raids.
Failure of empowerment zone
In November 1994, the Atlanta Empowerment Zone was established, a 10-year, $250 million federal program to revitalize Atlanta's 34 poorest neighborhoods including the Bluff. Scathing reports from both the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development and the Georgia Department of Community Affairs revealed corruption, waste, bureaucratic incompetence, and interference by mayor Bill Campbell.Replacement of public housing projects
As part of the Atlanta Housing AuthorityAtlanta Housing Authority
Atlanta Housing Authority is organized under Georgia law to develop, acquire, lease and operate affordable housing for low-income families. Today, AHA is the largest housing agency in Georgia and one of the largest in the nation, serving approximately 50,000 people.-AHA model:In 1996, AHA created...
's systematic replacement of public housing projects by mixed-income communities (MIC), Eagan Homes was demolished and the Magnolia Park MIC replaced it. Herndon Homes was demolished in 2011.
Historic Westside Village mixed-use project
In 1999, the Atlanta Housing AuthorityAtlanta Housing Authority
Atlanta Housing Authority is organized under Georgia law to develop, acquire, lease and operate affordable housing for low-income families. Today, AHA is the largest housing agency in Georgia and one of the largest in the nation, serving approximately 50,000 people.-AHA model:In 1996, AHA created...
first announced plans for the "Historic Westside Village", a $130 million commercial, residential and retail project at the area's southern end near Martin Luther King, Jr. Dr. at Ashby St. A Publix
Publix
Publix Super Markets, Inc. is an American supermarket chain based in Lakeland, Florida.Founded in 1930 by George W. Jenkins, it is an employee-owned, privately held corporation. Publix is currently ranked No. 86 on Fortune magazine's list of 100 Best Companies to Work For 2010 and was ranked No...
supermarket opened in May 2002 but the overall project stalled by 2003 as further anchor tenants did not materialize. This, along with disappointing sales, caused the Publix - the only full-sized supermarket for miles around - to close in December 2009. Creative Loafing called the project the most notorious "municipal boondoggle...to have tarred Atlanta" during mayor Bill Campbell's era; the project "fell victim to...cronyism, bureaucratic incompetence and a flagrant disregard for federal lending guidelines". In December 2010 things looked up as the Atlanta Development Authority announced plans for Wal-Mart
Wal-Mart
Wal-Mart Stores, Inc. , branded as Walmart since 2008 and Wal-Mart before then, is an American public multinational corporation that runs chains of large discount department stores and warehouse stores. The company is the world's 18th largest public corporation, according to the Forbes Global 2000...
to open a store on the site, which Mayor Kasim Reed
Kasim Reed
Mohammed Kasim Reed, known as Kasim Reed, is a Democratic politician and the 59th Mayor of Atlanta, who previously represented the 35th District of the Georgia State Senate. He was a member of the Georgia House of Representatives from 1998 to 2002...
called "an end to the food desert in the area".
Black-white coalition
The Christian Science Monitor reported that by 2008, businessman John Gordon and Rev. Anthony Motley, a 20-year resident of The Bluff, "Atlanta's roughest 'hood", had "formed a black-white coalition seeking angel investors" and brought together "local businesses, neighboring Georgia Tech, and church leaders to inspire not just city and private investment, but also to light a spark of hope among law-abiding residents – many of them older people fearful of the streets outside their front doors. Their unusual friendship" had "helped inspire two massive clean-up efforts, a small but significant drop in crime, and glimmers of fresh paint and clean-swept front walks."Proposed community center on site of English Avenue school
In May 2010 the non-profit Greater Vine City Opportunities Program, founded and directed by "Able" Mable ThomasMable Thomas
"Able" Mable Thomas was a member of the Georgia House of Representatives representing Georgia House district 55, areas immediately west and southwest of Downtown Atlanta and areas west and northwest of Midtown Atlanta.-Political career:...
bought the English Avenue Elementary School with the intention to convert it into a "state of the art green technology global community center".
The 2008 tornado
2008 Atlanta tornado outbreak
The 2008 Atlanta tornado outbreak was a tornado outbreak that affected the Southeastern United States on March 14–15, 2008.A tornado caused widespread damage across downtown Atlanta, including to the CNN Center and to the Georgia Dome, where the 2008 SEC Men's Basketball Tournament was postponed...
caused major damage in areas of Vine City (photos).
In March 2011, NPU
Neighborhood planning unit
The Neighborhood Planning Unit is a neighborhood-scale governmental structure used in the city of Atlanta, Georgia.The system was established in 1974 by Atlanta's first black mayor, Maynard Holbrook Jackson...
L voted in favor of a Sunset Avenue Historic District
Sunset Avenue Historic District
Sunset Avenue is a proposed 35-acre historic district in the Vine City neighborhood just west of Downtown Atlanta. The proposed district contains representative wood houses from the late 19th-mid 20th century, in the Folk Victorian, Queen Anne, Crafstman, , Ranch, and styles. Most are smaller...
from Joseph E. Boone Blvd. southward to Magnolia Street.
Public Transportation
The Bluff is served by the MARTAMarta
Marta may refer to:* Marta or Marta Vieira da Silva , a Brazilian women's football forward* Marta Estrella, a recurring fictional character from Arrested Development...
rail Blue Line
Blue Line (MARTA)
The Blue Line is a rapid transit line in the MARTA rail system. It operates between Hamilton E. Holmes and Indian Creek stations, running through Atlanta, Decatur and portions of unincorporated DeKalb County....
and Green Line
Green Line (MARTA)
The Green Line is a rapid transit line in the MARTA rail system. It operates between Bankhead and Edgewood/Candler Park stations, running exclusively inside the Atlanta city limits....
at the Vine City
Vine City (MARTA station)
Vine City is an at-grade train station on the Blue and part-time terminus station of Green lines of the Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority rail system. It is one of only 2 stations served by the Green, and Blue lines at all times...
and Ashby
Ashby (MARTA station)
Ashby is an underground metro station on the Blue and Green lines of the Metropolitan Atlanta Rapid Transit Authority rail system.The area it serves was an important mini-downtown from the 1880s until the 1950s, centered on West Hunter St. and Ashby St....
stations. Bus lines serving the neighborhood are the 3 along Martin Luther King, Jr. Drive, the 51 along Joseph E. Boone Blvd., and the 26 along Cameron M. Alexander Blvd. (known as Kennedy St. until 2010), English Avenue and Donald L. Hollowell Pkwy.
The Bluff in films, music, and books
- The 2011 film "Snow on tha BluffSnow on tha BluffSnow on tha Bluff is a 2011 reality/drama film directed by Damon Russell. It is the story of Curtis Snow, a real Atlanta "robbery boy and crack dealer whose livelihood revolves around armed robbery and drug pushing" who "sought out [director] Damon Russell to make a film about his life." The film's...
" directed by Damon Russell "the story of an Atlanta robbery boy and crack dealer". The film stars Curtis Snow, "whose livelihood revolves around armed robbery and drug pushing" and "sought out Russell to make a film about his life". It premiered at the 2011 Slamdance Film FestivalSlamdance Film FestivalAs a year-round organization, Slamdance serves as a showcase for the discovery of new and emerging talent in the film industry; it is also the only major film festival fully programmed by filmmakers. Slamdance counts among its alumni many notable writers and directors who first gained notice at the...
, a showcase for the discovery of new and emerging talent in the film industry. - The 2006 independent docudrama, "The Bluff", focused on the crime, drugs and violence in the neighborhood.
- Many rap music lyrics include references to the Bluff, including Young JeezyYoung JeezyJay Wayne Jenkins , better known by his stage name Young Jeezy, is an American rapper. He is the member of the hip hop group United Streets Dopeboyz of America and a former member of BMF...
in his songs "Vacation"Vacation (Young Jeezy song)"Vacation" is the second official single off rapper Young Jeezy's album, The Recession.-Background:The song was released on August 12, 2008 on USDA2DAY.com as a countdown to The Recession. Originally "Crazy World" was rumored to be the second single, but it was confirmed that "Vacation" would be...
("I'm goin' to da Bluff where it's rough") and "Paper Chasin'" - The Bluff is a key location in Tom WolfeTom WolfeThomas Kennerly "Tom" Wolfe, Jr. is a best-selling American author and journalist. He is one of the founders of the New Journalism movement of the 1960s and 1970s.-Early life and education:...
's novel A Man in FullA Man in FullA Man in Full is a novel by Tom Wolfe, published in 1998 by Farrar, Straus & Giroux. It is set primarily in Atlanta.-Summary:As with Wolfe's other novels, A Man In Full features a number of point-of-view characters...
Famous residents
- Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. and Coretta Scott King
- 2012 Republican presidential candidate Herman CainHerman CainHerman Cain is a candidate for the 2012 U.S. Republican Party presidential nomination.Cain has a background as a business executive, syndicated columnist, and radio host from Georgia. He served as chairman and CEO of Godfather's Pizza from 1986 to 1996...
spent his early youth here, attending English Avenue School and the age of 10 joining Rev. Cameron L. Alexander's Baptist mega-church. - Singer Gladys KnightGladys KnightGladys Maria Knight , known as the "Empress of Soul", is an American singer-songwriter, actress, businesswoman, humanitarian, and author...
and two of the Pips attended English Avenue Elementary School - Judge Marvin S. Arrington, Sr.Marvin S. Arrington, Sr.Marvin Stephens Arrington, Sr. is an American judge in the Superior Court of Fulton County, Georgia and a former politician in the city of Atlanta. Elected to the Atlanta Board of Aldermen in 1969 , he served as President of the Atlanta City Council for 17 years until his unsuccessful bid for...
- Mayor Maynard H. Jackson, Jr.
- Comedian Bruce BruceBruce BruceBruce Bruce is an American actor and stand-up comedian from Atlanta, Georgia. He grew up in The Bluff, one of the city's roughest ghettos....
grew up in the Bluff