Third Wave Coffee
Encyclopedia
The Third Wave of Coffee refers to a current movement to produce high-quality coffee
, and consider coffee as an artisanal foodstuff, like wine
, rather than a commodity, like wheat
. This involves improvements at all stages of production, from improving coffee bean growing, harvesting, and processing, to stronger relationships between coffee growers and coffee traders and roasters, to higher quality and fresh roasting, at times called microroasting (by analogy with microbrew beer), to skilled brewing.
Third Wave Coffee aspires to the highest form of culinary appreciation of coffee, so that one may appreciate subtleties of flavor, bean varietal, and growing region – similar to other complex culinary products such as wine, tea, and chocolate. Distinctive features of Third Wave Coffee include direct trade
coffee, high-quality beans (see specialty coffee
for scale), single-origin coffee
(as opposed to blends), lighter roasts of the beans, and latte art
. It also sometimes includes naked portafilter
s, and revivals of alternative methods of coffee preparation
, such as vacuum coffee (sometimes called "siphon") and individual drip brew
.
The term "Third Wave" was coined in 2002, and refers narrowly to an American phenomenon, particularly from the 1990s and continuing today, but with some roots in the 1980s, 1970s, and 1960s. Similar movements exist in the United Kingdom, Australia
, New Zealand
, and Scandinavia
. More broadly, Third Wave Coffee can be seen as part of the specialty coffee
movement.
program. More recently, the third wave of coffee has been chronicled by publications such as The New York Times
, LA Weekly
, Los Angeles Times
, La Opinión
and The Guardian
.
In March 2008, Pulitzer Prize
winning food critic Jonathan Gold
of the LA Weekly defined the third wave of coffee by saying:
The earlier term "specialty coffee
" was coined in 1974, and refers narrowly to high-quality beans scoring 80 points or more on a 100-point scale.
of Third Wave Coffee" are commonly held to be Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea
of Chicago, Illinois; Stumptown Coffee Roasters
of Portland, Oregon; and Counter Culture Coffee of North Carolina, all of which engage in direct trade
sourcing. Intelligentsia has 6 bars – 3 in Chicago, 3 in Los Angeles, together with 1 "lab" in New York, while Stumptown has 8 bars – 5 bars in Portland, 2 in Seattle, and 1 in New York. By comparison, Starbucks
has well over 10,000 locations.
of Berkeley, California
, which in the late 1960s began artisanal sourcing, roasting, and blending, and the Seattle coffee scene of the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, which saw the birth of artisanal American espresso bars, and led to nationwide chains, notably Starbucks, which are retrospectively titled "Second Wave". (Peet's primarily retails beans for home brewing, features dark roasts, and did not serve espresso until 1984.) These in turn were predated by Italian American
espresso bars, primarily serving immigrant communities, and 19th century "First Wave" coffee importers.
Another important event was the 1982 foundation of the Specialty Coffee Association of America
. Other early importers include Dallis Coffee (founded 1980s) and The Coffee Connection of Boston (founded 1974, following influence by Peet's).
Coffee
Coffee is a brewed beverage with a dark,init brooo acidic flavor prepared from the roasted seeds of the coffee plant, colloquially called coffee beans. The beans are found in coffee cherries, which grow on trees cultivated in over 70 countries, primarily in equatorial Latin America, Southeast Asia,...
, and consider coffee as an artisanal foodstuff, like wine
Wine
Wine is an alcoholic beverage, made of fermented fruit juice, usually from grapes. The natural chemical balance of grapes lets them ferment without the addition of sugars, acids, enzymes, or other nutrients. Grape wine is produced by fermenting crushed grapes using various types of yeast. Yeast...
, rather than a commodity, like wheat
Wheat
Wheat is a cereal grain, originally from the Levant region of the Near East, but now cultivated worldwide. In 2007 world production of wheat was 607 million tons, making it the third most-produced cereal after maize and rice...
. This involves improvements at all stages of production, from improving coffee bean growing, harvesting, and processing, to stronger relationships between coffee growers and coffee traders and roasters, to higher quality and fresh roasting, at times called microroasting (by analogy with microbrew beer), to skilled brewing.
Third Wave Coffee aspires to the highest form of culinary appreciation of coffee, so that one may appreciate subtleties of flavor, bean varietal, and growing region – similar to other complex culinary products such as wine, tea, and chocolate. Distinctive features of Third Wave Coffee include direct trade
Direct trade
Direct trade is a form of sourcing practiced by some coffee roasters, referring to direct sourcing from farmers, with standards varying between producers...
coffee, high-quality beans (see specialty coffee
Specialty coffee
"Specialty coffee" was first used in 1974 by Erna Knutsen in an issue of Tea & Coffee Trade Journal. Knutsen used this term to describe beans of the best flavor which are produced in special microclimates....
for scale), single-origin coffee
Single-origin coffee
Single-origin is a descriptive term referring to a coffee or cacao varietal with a single known geographical origin. Sometimes this is a single farm, or a specific collection of beans from a single country. The name of the coffee is then usually the place it was grown to whatever degree available...
(as opposed to blends), lighter roasts of the beans, and latte art
Latte Art
Latte art is a method of preparing coffee created by pouring steamed milk into a shot of espresso and resulting in a pattern or design on the surface of the resulting latte. It can also be created or embellished by simply "drawing" in the top layer of foam...
. It also sometimes includes naked portafilter
Portafilter
A portafilter attaches to the group head of semi-automatic and piston-driven espresso machines, and carries a tamped puck of coffee grounds within its basket. It is usually made of brass, and is attached by a plastic or wooden handle...
s, and revivals of alternative methods of coffee preparation
Coffee preparation
Coffee preparation is the process of turning coffee beans into a beverage. While the particular steps needed vary with the type of coffee desired and with the raw material being utilized, the process is composed of four basic steps; raw coffee beans must be roasted, the roasted coffee beans must...
, such as vacuum coffee (sometimes called "siphon") and individual drip brew
Drip brew
Drip brewing, or filtered coffee, is a method for brewing coffee which involves pouring water over roasted, ground coffee beans contained in a filter. Water seeps through the coffee, absorbing its oils and essences, solely under gravity, then passes through the bottom of the filter...
.
The term "Third Wave" was coined in 2002, and refers narrowly to an American phenomenon, particularly from the 1990s and continuing today, but with some roots in the 1980s, 1970s, and 1960s. Similar movements exist in the United Kingdom, Australia
Australia
Australia , officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country in the Southern Hemisphere comprising the mainland of the Australian continent, the island of Tasmania, and numerous smaller islands in the Indian and Pacific Oceans. It is the world's sixth-largest country by total area...
, New Zealand
New Zealand
New Zealand is an island country in the south-western Pacific Ocean comprising two main landmasses and numerous smaller islands. The country is situated some east of Australia across the Tasman Sea, and roughly south of the Pacific island nations of New Caledonia, Fiji, and Tonga...
, and Scandinavia
Scandinavia
Scandinavia is a cultural, historical and ethno-linguistic region in northern Europe that includes the three kingdoms of Denmark, Norway and Sweden, characterized by their common ethno-cultural heritage and language. Modern Norway and Sweden proper are situated on the Scandinavian Peninsula,...
. More broadly, Third Wave Coffee can be seen as part of the specialty coffee
Specialty coffee
"Specialty coffee" was first used in 1974 by Erna Knutsen in an issue of Tea & Coffee Trade Journal. Knutsen used this term to describe beans of the best flavor which are produced in special microclimates....
movement.
History of term
Trish Rothgeb (formerly Skeie) of Wrecking Ball Coffee Roasters first wrote about the Third Wave of Coffee in a November 2002 article of The Flamekeeper, a newsletter of the Roaster's Guild, a trade guild of the Specialty Coffee Association of America. Nicholas Cho of Murky Coffee further defined the Third Wave of Coffee in an often-referenced online article and earlier in his interview in March 2005 on National Public Radio's All Things ConsideredAll Things Considered
All Things Considered is the flagship news program on the American network National Public Radio. It was the first news program on NPR, and is broadcast live worldwide through several outlets...
program. More recently, the third wave of coffee has been chronicled by publications such as The New York Times
The New York Times
The New York Times is an American daily newspaper founded and continuously published in New York City since 1851. The New York Times has won 106 Pulitzer Prizes, the most of any news organization...
, LA Weekly
LA Weekly
LA Weekly is a free weekly tabloid-sized "alternative weekly" in Los Angeles, California. It was founded in 1978 by Editor/Publisher Jay Levin and a board of directors that included actor-producer Michael Douglas...
, Los Angeles Times
Los Angeles Times
The Los Angeles Times is a daily newspaper published in Los Angeles, California, since 1881. It was the second-largest metropolitan newspaper in circulation in the United States in 2008 and the fourth most widely distributed newspaper in the country....
, La Opinión
La Opinión
La Opinión is a Spanish-language daily newspaper published in Los Angeles, California, USA and distributed throughout the six counties of Southern California. It is the largest Spanish-language newspaper in the United States and second-most read newspaper in Los Angeles . It is published by...
and The Guardian
The Guardian
The Guardian, formerly known as The Manchester Guardian , is a British national daily newspaper in the Berliner format...
.
In March 2008, Pulitzer Prize
Pulitzer Prize for Criticism
The Pulitzer Prize for Criticism has been presented since 1970 to a newspaper writer who has demonstrated 'distinguished criticism'. Recipients of the award are chosen by an independent board and officially administered by Columbia University...
winning food critic Jonathan Gold
Jonathan Gold
Jonathan Gold is a food critic who currently writes for LA Weekly and used to write for Gourmet magazine. In 2007 he became the first such critic to win the Pulitzer Prize. He is also a regular on KCRW's Good Food radio program....
of the LA Weekly defined the third wave of coffee by saying:
The earlier term "specialty coffee
Specialty coffee
"Specialty coffee" was first used in 1974 by Erna Knutsen in an issue of Tea & Coffee Trade Journal. Knutsen used this term to describe beans of the best flavor which are produced in special microclimates....
" was coined in 1974, and refers narrowly to high-quality beans scoring 80 points or more on a 100-point scale.
United States
In the US, the market is very diverse. Most Third Wave Coffee is served in independently owned and operated coffee shops, with few chains, none large. There are a large number of roasters, often available via mail order, and some stand-alone coffee shops or small chains roast their own coffee; compare brewpub. There are a few larger businesses, more prominent in roasting than in operating – the "Big ThreeBig three
Big Three is a term used colloquially to refer to the three most prominent entities in any given grouping or subject.It may refer to:- People :* The leaders of the three major Allies of World War I: David Lloyd George, Georges Clemenceau, and Woodrow Wilson...
of Third Wave Coffee" are commonly held to be Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea
Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea
Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, colloquially known as Intelligentsia, is a coffee roasting company and retailer with its headquarters at 1850 W. Fulton Street in Chicago, Illinois. Intelligentsia has several cafe retail locations throughout the Chicago area. The company was founded in 1995 by Doug...
of Chicago, Illinois; Stumptown Coffee Roasters
Stumptown Coffee Roasters
Stumptown Coffee Roasters is a coffee roaster and retailer based in Portland, Oregon, United States. The chain's flagship cafe and roastery on SE 45th and Division opened in 1999...
of Portland, Oregon; and Counter Culture Coffee of North Carolina, all of which engage in direct trade
Direct trade
Direct trade is a form of sourcing practiced by some coffee roasters, referring to direct sourcing from farmers, with standards varying between producers...
sourcing. Intelligentsia has 6 bars – 3 in Chicago, 3 in Los Angeles, together with 1 "lab" in New York, while Stumptown has 8 bars – 5 bars in Portland, 2 in Seattle, and 1 in New York. By comparison, Starbucks
Starbucks
Starbucks Corporation is an international coffee and coffeehouse chain based in Seattle, Washington. Starbucks is the largest coffeehouse company in the world, with 17,009 stores in 55 countries, including over 11,000 in the United States, over 1,000 in Canada, over 700 in the United Kingdom, and...
has well over 10,000 locations.
Earlier history
Important earlier influences are Peet's Coffee & TeaPeet's Coffee & Tea
Peet's Coffee & Tea is a specialty coffee roaster and retailer. Founded in 1966 by Alfred Peet in Berkeley, California as "Peet's Coffee, Tea & Spices", Peet's is especially known for its strong, dark roasted coffee, including its Major Dickason blend.- Company history :Alfred Peet started Peet's...
of Berkeley, California
Berkeley, California
Berkeley is a city on the east shore of the San Francisco Bay in Northern California, United States. Its neighbors to the south are the cities of Oakland and Emeryville. To the north is the city of Albany and the unincorporated community of Kensington...
, which in the late 1960s began artisanal sourcing, roasting, and blending, and the Seattle coffee scene of the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, which saw the birth of artisanal American espresso bars, and led to nationwide chains, notably Starbucks, which are retrospectively titled "Second Wave". (Peet's primarily retails beans for home brewing, features dark roasts, and did not serve espresso until 1984.) These in turn were predated by Italian American
Italian American
An Italian American , is an American of Italian ancestry. The designation may also refer to someone possessing Italian and American dual citizenship...
espresso bars, primarily serving immigrant communities, and 19th century "First Wave" coffee importers.
Another important event was the 1982 foundation of the Specialty Coffee Association of America
Specialty Coffee Association of America
The Specialty Coffee Association of America is a civilian trade organization for the specialty coffees industry, founded in 1982. The SCAA seeks to set standards for growing, roasting, and brewing premium coffees. Members of the SCAA include coffee retailers, roasters, producers, exporters and...
. Other early importers include Dallis Coffee (founded 1980s) and The Coffee Connection of Boston (founded 1974, following influence by Peet's).