Textile preservation
Encyclopedia
Textile preservation refers to the processes by which textile
s are cared for and maintained to be preserved
from future damage. The field falls under the category of art conservation as well as library preservation
, depending on the type of collection. In this case, the concept of textile preservation applies to a wide range of artifacts, including tapestries
, carpet
s, quilt
s, clothing
, flag
s and curtain
s, as well as objects which ‘’contain’’ textiles, such as upholstered furniture
, dolls, and accessories such as fans, parasols
, glove
s and hat
s or bonnets
. Many of these artifacts require specialized care, often by a professional conservator. The goal of this article is to provide a general overview of the textile preservation process, and to serve as a jumping-off point for further research into more specialized care. Always contact a professional conservator if you are unsure of how to proceed in the preservation process.
s, historic societies/locations, and private collection
s. The needs of each of these locations will vary. A private collection, for instance, is less likely to have as high a traffic flow as a museum, and may thus be able to take preservation steps that a working museum cannot (such as keeping lights to a minimum for longer periods of time). The different venues may also have different problems that arise, such as the fact that many historic homes do not have climate control, and rely strongly on natural light to display their furnishings, both of which may contribute to textile decay.
The chief cause for decay in textiles is almost always the environment in which they are stored. Light, temperature, and humidity can all contribute to a textile’s health or deterioration, depending on their intensity. Additionally, pests, chemicals, and pollutants may also cause damage to an antique fabric. Airborne chemicals, such as smog or cigarette smoke are also harmful to the textiles, and should be avoided if at all possible: high-efficiency air filters should be installed throughout the building to reduce the presence of airborne chemicals that may stain, discolor, or weaken fabrics.
can have a variety of effects on textiles over time. In some cases, it may contribute to fading or discoloration, but of more concern is the damage which the fibers may suffer under prolonged exposure to non-visible light, such as ultraviolet
and infrared
lighting. Ideally, textiles should be stored or displayed in as little light as possible, and preferably in total darkness . However, as this is impractical for display and care of the piece, knowing the limits of lighting as well as the safest amounts of lighting, become important.
Natural light
is the most common source of ultraviolet light, and as such, care should be taken to avoid exposure to direct sunlight at all costs, and indirect sunlight whenever possible. This may mean storing or displaying textiles in an area without windows, or with blackout curtains, which can be pulled whenever the room is not in use. If a room relies on natural light, UV screens or coatings can be applied to the windows to block harmful rays while still allowing light to pass through. These filters should be checked periodically, however, as they have a limited lifespan and may need to be replaced every few years .
Fluorescent
and halogen-produced light can also produce large amounts of UV radiation, though filters which fit over the bulbs are available to limit the damaging light . These filters will need to be replaced when the bulbs are changed, so maintenance staff should be aware of them and their use.
One advantage of fluorescent lights is that they produce little heat
, which may also be harmful to textiles. Incandescent lights
produce a large amount of heat in addition to large quantities of infrared radiation, which is likewise damaging to the fibers in antique textiles. If incandescent lights must be used, they should be placed far enough away from display cases that their heat does not affect the contents .
In the case of particularly delicate textiles, display organizers might consider motion-activated
or timed lighting, or lighting controlled though a visitor-activated switch, which would allow the textiles to remain in darkness when they are not under view . All textiles should be displayed on a rotating schedule, allowing them a few months of display, then the rest of the year in dark storage, to prolong their life.
Heat and humidity
can both contribute and a textile’s deterioration. However, excessive dryness may also cause damage, especially to elastic fibers, such as wool
, which rely on some amount of moisture
to maintain their flexibility (Putnam and Finch). Additionally, temperature
and humidity should be kept as constant as possible; changes in either of these may cause the textile fibers to expand and contract, which, over time, can also cause damage and deterioration to the textile. For this reason, both storage and display areas should be fitted with monitoring equipment
to gauge the temperature and humidity of rooms, display cases, enclosed storage facilities, and work areas.
Ideally, temperature should be kept around 70 degrees Fahrenheit
, though some slight fluctuation in either direction is permissible, as long as it occurs gradually . For instance, temperature may be slightly lower in winter to save energy costs, but the change should be effected slowly, so as not to place the fibers under undue stress.
As for humidity, the preservationist or conservator should aim for a relative humidity of 50%, though, as with temperature, some small fluctuation is allowable, as long as it occurs gradually (Mailand). In enclosed display or storage cases, humidity can be somewhat maintained through the use of silica gel
crystals. These crystals should not be placed in contact with the textiles, but may be placed in breathable muslin bags and hung inside the case to maintain a constant humidity ; they should be monitored periodically, however, to be sure that they are working.
In areas where climate control
is unavailable (such as in historic buildings), the conservator can still moderate the temperature and relative humidity through use of fans, humidifiers and dehumidifiers, and portable heating or cooling units .
In addition to temperature and humidity, air flow is also a concern for textile preservation. Textiles should never be sealed in plastic or other air-tight casing unless it is part of a treatment or cleaning process. Proper circulation, combined with the suggested humidity, will help to prevent the growth of mold
and mildew
, which may stain
or weaken antique textiles .
, carpet beetles, silverfish
, firebrat
s and rodents.
Clothes moths are attracted to protein
fibres, and so are especially drawn to silk
, wool, and feather
s. An infestation might be identified through the evidence of white cocoons (or the remnants thereof) on the textiles, or of sighting the insects themselves. They are roughly 8 centimetres long and white in colour .
Like clothes moths, carpet beetles are likewise drawn to proteins, and can be quite destructive. Evidence of an infestation may take of the form of chewed holes, carcasses, or larvae, which appear as small pale worm-like insects .
Silverfish and firebrats are related insects which consume starch
, usually found in sizing or other treatments applied to fabrics, as well as plant-based textiles such as linen
and cotton
. Both are attracted to dark, moist climates, though silverfish prefer cooler temperatures, while firebrats tend towards warmer. Both are about 12 millimetres in length and either light or dark in colouring, depending on which type is present .
Rodent infestations can be identified in the usual ways, such as seeing droppings, nests, or comparatively large chewed areas of textile where they have caused damage.
In all cases, chemical means of pest control
should be avoided if possible, not only due to harm to humans who come in contact with them, but because the chemicals may cause damage to the very textiles the conservator is trying to save. For rodents, snap traps
may be effective, and if needed, a professional exterminator
should be called. Poison baited traps should be avoided, as the rodent could die somewhere inaccessible, and provide a breeding ground for further pests . Also, in the case of a rodent infestation, all access points to the room (such as cracks or holes) through which they might be entering should be located and sealed if possible .
For insect
s, keeping clean storage, display, and work environment is the best method of prevention. Also, sticky traps
(replaced often) around doors, windows, and display cases may be useful for monitoring the insect population. Furthermore, the population of carnivorous insects, such as spider
s, should be observed. While such insects are not harmful to textiles by themselves, they may indicate another population of insects which are .
If the infestation can be limited to one or a few pieces, the insects may be killed through freezing
of the object. The textile should be wrapped in plastic and vacuum-sealed
, then brought to a freezing temperature as quickly as possible, to prevent the insects from adjusting to the cold. The object may be left frozen for several days, but should be brought slowly back up to room temperature to avoid further damage . Note that while this method should kill adults, it may not destroy any eggs that are present.
If chemical means must be employed, it would be best to consult with a professional conservator to be certain that the treatment will not harm the textiles themselves.
Even if no signs of an infestation are present, textiles should still be inspected periodically to be certain that there is no outbreak that has gone unobserved. Additionally, when dealing with a new acquisition which shows signs of insect damage, the specimen should be quarantine
d until it can be determined whether the insects are still present before introducing it to the rest of the collection.
s taking place within the fabric itself, such as the oxidation
of iron-based mordant
s over time, which can cause darkening and discolouration in the surrounding fibres .
One example which is cited frequently throughout the literature is the case of “shattered silk.” During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, many silk manufacturers treated their fabrics with metal
lic salts (usually containing tin
and iron
) to give them a heavier, more luxurious feel. However, as these fabrics have aged, the metals in the fibres have accelerated their decay and caused them to become extremely brittle. The shredded or “shattered” effect this causes is the reason for the name. In this case, the environment of the textile contributes very little to the deterioration from the metallic salts, though exposure to light may accelerate it even further .
Textile preservationists should be familiar with their collections and the history and provenance
of their pieces. Chemical tests can reveal the types of dyes and mordants used, as well as any other treatments applied to the fabric . Such knowledge can lead to the prevention of further decay by learning which pieces need to be handled with particular care.
Because our hands contain oil
s and acid
s in the skin
, clean cloth gloves should be worn when handling textiles. If gloves are unavailable, then frequent hand-washing should be undertaken to ensure that no damage is caused. For similar reasons, the working, display, and storage areas should be free of food, drink, and cigarette smoke, which can also stain or damage the fabric. Finally, to avoid ink stains, only pencils should be used for writing or sketching in the work space.
To avoid snags and pulls, remove any jewelry that may catch in the fabric’s weave, and wear clothing free of large buckles or other objects which may snag the textile. Long hair should also be tied back to allow a clear view of the working area, even when the head is bent over the table.
When working with the textiles, it should be placed on a clean, flat surface which is larger than the textile itself, so that the whole piece is supported evenly. Although it is supported, never place anything on top of the textile while it is in the flat position.
When moving the textile, it is important to maintain the flat, even support of the work space. If the piece is small enough (a handkerchief
or sampler
, for instance), it may be placed on an acid-free board
or similar support and carried as if on a tray. If the piece is too large for this (a carpet or tapestry, for example), the piece may be rolled around an acid-free tube and carried by two people to its new location.
Finally, antique costume
s and clothing should never be worn, as the mere process of putting the clothes on and taking them off will cause damage. Additionally, the model may not fit the costume precisely (remember that clothing was for a long time made to fit a specific person, not mass-produced in approximate sizes), causing strain where there should be none and slack where there likewise should be none.
them. The fabric is placed on a clean, flat work surface. If the specimen is particularly delicate, or simply as a precaution, a fibreglass screen
edged with twill tape
may be placed over the textile. The screen allows dirt and dust
to pass through, but prevents individual threads from being pulled loose or unravelled further by the suction. Using a vacuum attachment and the lowest power setting, move the suction over the screen until the entire area has been cleaned. If needed, move the screen to a new area and begin again. Always remember to vacuum both sides of the textile, as dirt may filter through to the other side . Hanging textiles will need to be vacuumed less often than horizontal pieces, as there are fewer places where dust can collect.
Before cleaning a textile, certain questions should be asked to determine both the best treatment for that particular combination of textile and soil, and to ascertain whether the piece is able to be cleaned, or may sustain damage during the process.
What is the chemical composition of the textile? In other words, does it have a high acid content? Where there chemicals used in its production that might contribute to how it reacts to water? Or how it may react to cleaning chemicals?
What are the characteristics of the fibres? For instance, cotton and linen, being plant fibers, are both stronger wet than dry, and so may be able to withstand a more mechanical stress than something like silk. Wool can absorb large amounts of water, but mats if washed in high temperatures. All silks become brittle with age, but weighted silks (see Textile Instability above) decay more quickly, and thus must be handled with extreme care . Additionally, some silks, once wet, can be permanently spotted. Learn the basic characteristics of the type of fibres you have, and how they have been treated before undertaking any kind of cleaning.
What colourant
s have been used, and how will they react to cleaning? This can apply not only to dye
s but to mordants as well. Different parts of the world may have different dye processes, so here is where knowledge of when and where a textile originated, as well as a working knowledge of chemistry
, can come in handy. If in doubt as to the wash ability of a dye, apply a drop or two of water to an inconspicuous place and blot with a clean white cloth. If the dye transfers to the cloth, even in small amounts, the textile should not be washed .
Are there finishes or surface treatments that must be preserved? For example, is the fabric paint
ed? If so, it should never be washed; some other cleaning method should be used .
What kinds of soils are there? The older the stain, the more difficult it is to remove. After a certain point, it may be best to leave the stain or soil, or remove it only partially, in order to preserve the rest of the piece. Additionally, soils which may not be detectable to the naked eye might be present in the textile; flags, for instance, may be highly acidic due to long exposure to air pollutants
, and should be treated by a professional conservator .
What cleaner is safest and most effective? Commercial detergent
s should never be used on antique textiles, whatever their claims of gentleness: the chemicals used in most clothes detergents are too harsh for old fibres to withstand. A wide range of speciality detergents are available from conservation suppliers, though most sources suggest Ivory dish soap
as a last-minute substitution if needed. Never use chemical spot cleaners, as they are likewise too harsh for old fibres to tolerate. This is especially important for pieces in situ
, as this may endanger other nearby pieces as well (the wooden part of an upholstered piece of furniture, for instance) .
What additives and cleaning aids are needed? This can include physical supplies (water
, screens, a vacuum cleaner), as well as chemical (water softener
, cleaning agents, etc.).
How long can the specimen be exposed to the cleaner? Prolonged exposure may cause additional damage to the fibres.
What mechanical action can be used? The older and more fragile a textile, the less movement it will be able to tolerate during the cleaning process, so this should be considered before undertaking a cleaning.
Once the best cleaning process has been determined, the piece should be prepared for washing
. Usually, this involves vacuuming to remove any surface dirt. Linings
and backing should also be removed, vacuumed, and washed separately. This is not only to prevent colour bleeding, but to avoid trapping dirt between the layers, which may cause discolouration from the inside. Additionally, different fibres react differently to cleaning, and fabrics may shrink or stretch, which, if still attached together, may cause rippling and distortion
in the lining and outer layer of the textile .
As with moving or working with dry pieces, the textile should be washed in a flat, fully supported position. Usually this is achieved through the use of screens like the ones used in vacuuming, though these may be supported in a frame of some kind for added stability. The textile should be sandwiched between two screens. If the piece is particularly delicate or fragile, it may be wrapped in netting
, then placed between the screens .
The cleaning solution
should be prepared using distilled water
. If that is unavailable, softened water may be substituted. The main concern is to avoid hard water
, which will leave deposits of mineral
s in the fibres . The solution should be placed in a container large enough for the textile to lie flat in. For large pieces, it may be necessary to construct a temporary basin outside or in a large room: Putnam and Finch suggest using boards or bricks to constrict a frame, then lining it with a large piece of plastic
, weighted on the sides, and strong enough to support the water that will be poured into it. If a smaller basin is used, it should be of ceramic
, stainless steel
or a stable plastic.
The screen-encased textile is lowered into the solution. The textile can then be washed by pressing a soft sponge directly down onto the fibres. DO NOT RUB the sponge, as this will cause unnecessary abrasion
at a moment when the textile is already weak from the water . The textile may be submerged for no more than an hour, and should be rinsed at least four times after it is cleaned (Mailand). The final rinse should always be with distilled water. The textile should be placed to dry on a flat surface or screen, in a well-ventilated room away from heat.
is generally only used for oil stains, as it is a very stressful process of the textile. Commercial dry cleaners should never be used, as the chemicals used in the process are too strong for old fabrics to withstand without damage. If dry cleaning is absolutely necessary, consult a professional conservator .
ing and ironing
textiles should be done with caution, as the heat may affect the viability of the fibres. More importantly, the fabric should always be cleaned before either of these processes is used, since heat may trap dirt and stains in the fibres to such an extent that the stain becomes permanent. Always use the lowest setting for either of these procedures . If a garment relies on folds to maintain its proper shape (such as pleat
s), it may be better to finger-press the folds into place when the garment is damp and allow it to dry that way, rather than subject it to the added stress of ironing .
s up with the edges of the roll. Textiles with a decorative side (such as velvet
s and embroidered
textiles) should always be rolled with the decorative side facing out. This is because the inner layer, especially if there is a lining, may crease, stretch, or fold while it is on the roll. The rolled textiles can then be covered with a muslin
wrapper to protect it from dust .
ed gown
s, for instance), or those whose fabric may distort easily (such as some stretch fabric
s, or those cut on the bias) should also be stored in flat storage. Garments suitable for hanging should be placed on plastic hangers which have been padded to mimic the shape of human shoulders, and covered with a plastic or cloth cover with an open bottom to allow air circulation while keeping the costume clean . Wooden hangers may have a high acid content, which may cause discolouration or decay to the costume. Likewise, metal hangers do not provide sufficient support, and may lead to distortion of the garments’ shoulders. Therefore, both forms of hanging should be avoided .
If sufficient space is available, selected garments may be stored on dummies
to better keep their shape. If this method is used, dummies should be fitted out with the proper undergarment
s, such as bustle
s or panniers
, to provide adequate support for the garments as they were intended to be worn. However, while the main concern of a display may be to make the garment look attractive on the dummy, storage need have no such considerations. Loose, unsupported parts of the garment (such as sleeves or shirts) should be loosely stuffed with acid-free tissue paper to provide additional support .
Costume accessories
can be stored in a variety of ways. Generally, bonnets and gloves should be loosely stuffed with acid-free tissue and placed in archival-quality boxes or under cover. Fans and parasols may be stored in half-open positions, which provide the least amount of stress on the fabrics .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBo2G18y74A&feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WD-kk-mxvs&feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4emRz2k296M&feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYI5ExSdUHs&feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PZTx_MUBgw&feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiJz7-mzzxM&feature=relmfu
Textile
A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, or other material to produce long strands...
s are cared for and maintained to be preserved
Preservation (library and archival science)
Preservation is a branch of library and information science concerned with maintaining or restoring access to artifacts, documents and records through the study, diagnosis, treatment and prevention of decay and damage....
from future damage. The field falls under the category of art conservation as well as library preservation
Preservation (library and archival science)
Preservation is a branch of library and information science concerned with maintaining or restoring access to artifacts, documents and records through the study, diagnosis, treatment and prevention of decay and damage....
, depending on the type of collection. In this case, the concept of textile preservation applies to a wide range of artifacts, including tapestries
Tapestry
Tapestry is a form of textile art, traditionally woven on a vertical loom, however it can also be woven on a floor loom as well. It is composed of two sets of interlaced threads, those running parallel to the length and those parallel to the width ; the warp threads are set up under tension on a...
, carpet
Carpet
A carpet is a textile floor covering consisting of an upper layer of "pile" attached to a backing. The pile is generally either made from wool or a manmade fibre such as polypropylene,nylon or polyester and usually consists of twisted tufts which are often heat-treated to maintain their...
s, quilt
Quilt
A quilt is a type of bed cover, traditionally composed of three layers of fiber: a woven cloth top, a layer of batting or wadding and a woven back, combined using the technique of quilting. “Quilting” refers to the technique of joining at least two fabric layers by stitches or ties...
s, clothing
Clothing
Clothing refers to any covering for the human body that is worn. The wearing of clothing is exclusively a human characteristic and is a feature of nearly all human societies...
, flag
Flag
A flag is a piece of fabric with a distinctive design that is usually rectangular and used as a symbol, as a signaling device, or decoration. The term flag is also used to refer to the graphic design employed by a flag, or to its depiction in another medium.The first flags were used to assist...
s and curtain
Curtain
A curtain is a piece of cloth intended to block or obscure light, or drafts, or water in the case of a shower curtain. Curtains hung over a doorway are known as portières...
s, as well as objects which ‘’contain’’ textiles, such as upholstered furniture
Furniture
Furniture is the mass noun for the movable objects intended to support various human activities such as seating and sleeping in beds, to hold objects at a convenient height for work using horizontal surfaces above the ground, or to store things...
, dolls, and accessories such as fans, parasols
Umbrella
An umbrella or parasol is a canopy designed to protect against rain or sunlight. The term parasol usually refers to an item designed to protect from the sun; umbrella refers to a device more suited to protect from rain...
, glove
Glove
A glove is a garment covering the hand. Gloves have separate sheaths or openings for each finger and the thumb; if there is an opening but no covering sheath for each finger they are called "fingerless gloves". Fingerless gloves with one large opening rather than individual openings for each...
s and hat
Hat
A hat is a head covering. It can be worn for protection against the elements, for ceremonial or religious reasons, for safety, or as a fashion accessory. In the past, hats were an indicator of social status...
s or bonnets
Bonnet (headgear)
Bonnets are a variety of headgear for both sexes, which have in common only the absence of a brim. Bonnet derives from the same word in French, where it originally indicated a type of material...
. Many of these artifacts require specialized care, often by a professional conservator. The goal of this article is to provide a general overview of the textile preservation process, and to serve as a jumping-off point for further research into more specialized care. Always contact a professional conservator if you are unsure of how to proceed in the preservation process.
Collections
Historic textile collections can largely be divided into three categories: museumMuseum
A museum is an institution that cares for a collection of artifacts and other objects of scientific, artistic, cultural, or historical importance and makes them available for public viewing through exhibits that may be permanent or temporary. Most large museums are located in major cities...
s, historic societies/locations, and private collection
Private collection
A private collection is a privately owned collection of works, usually a collection of art. If seen in a museum alongside a work or describing said work, it signifies that piece of art in a museum is not actually owned by that museum, but is on loan from an independent source. This source will...
s. The needs of each of these locations will vary. A private collection, for instance, is less likely to have as high a traffic flow as a museum, and may thus be able to take preservation steps that a working museum cannot (such as keeping lights to a minimum for longer periods of time). The different venues may also have different problems that arise, such as the fact that many historic homes do not have climate control, and rely strongly on natural light to display their furnishings, both of which may contribute to textile decay.
Environment
Light
LightLight
Light or visible light is electromagnetic radiation that is visible to the human eye, and is responsible for the sense of sight. Visible light has wavelength in a range from about 380 nanometres to about 740 nm, with a frequency range of about 405 THz to 790 THz...
can have a variety of effects on textiles over time. In some cases, it may contribute to fading or discoloration, but of more concern is the damage which the fibers may suffer under prolonged exposure to non-visible light, such as ultraviolet
Ultraviolet
Ultraviolet light is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than that of visible light, but longer than X-rays, in the range 10 nm to 400 nm, and energies from 3 eV to 124 eV...
and infrared
Infrared
Infrared light is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength longer than that of visible light, measured from the nominal edge of visible red light at 0.74 micrometres , and extending conventionally to 300 µm...
lighting. Ideally, textiles should be stored or displayed in as little light as possible, and preferably in total darkness . However, as this is impractical for display and care of the piece, knowing the limits of lighting as well as the safest amounts of lighting, become important.
Natural light
Sunlight
Sunlight, in the broad sense, is the total frequency spectrum of electromagnetic radiation given off by the Sun. On Earth, sunlight is filtered through the Earth's atmosphere, and solar radiation is obvious as daylight when the Sun is above the horizon.When the direct solar radiation is not blocked...
is the most common source of ultraviolet light, and as such, care should be taken to avoid exposure to direct sunlight at all costs, and indirect sunlight whenever possible. This may mean storing or displaying textiles in an area without windows, or with blackout curtains, which can be pulled whenever the room is not in use. If a room relies on natural light, UV screens or coatings can be applied to the windows to block harmful rays while still allowing light to pass through. These filters should be checked periodically, however, as they have a limited lifespan and may need to be replaced every few years .
Fluorescent
Fluorescence
Fluorescence is the emission of light by a substance that has absorbed light or other electromagnetic radiation of a different wavelength. It is a form of luminescence. In most cases, emitted light has a longer wavelength, and therefore lower energy, than the absorbed radiation...
and halogen-produced light can also produce large amounts of UV radiation, though filters which fit over the bulbs are available to limit the damaging light . These filters will need to be replaced when the bulbs are changed, so maintenance staff should be aware of them and their use.
One advantage of fluorescent lights is that they produce little heat
Heat
In physics and thermodynamics, heat is energy transferred from one body, region, or thermodynamic system to another due to thermal contact or thermal radiation when the systems are at different temperatures. It is often described as one of the fundamental processes of energy transfer between...
, which may also be harmful to textiles. Incandescent lights
Incandescent light bulb
The incandescent light bulb, incandescent lamp or incandescent light globe makes light by heating a metal filament wire to a high temperature until it glows. The hot filament is protected from air by a glass bulb that is filled with inert gas or evacuated. In a halogen lamp, a chemical process...
produce a large amount of heat in addition to large quantities of infrared radiation, which is likewise damaging to the fibers in antique textiles. If incandescent lights must be used, they should be placed far enough away from display cases that their heat does not affect the contents .
In the case of particularly delicate textiles, display organizers might consider motion-activated
Motion detection
Motion detection is a process of confirming a change in position of an object relative to its surroundings or the change in the surroundings relative to an object. This detection can be achieved by both mechanical and electronic methods...
or timed lighting, or lighting controlled though a visitor-activated switch, which would allow the textiles to remain in darkness when they are not under view . All textiles should be displayed on a rotating schedule, allowing them a few months of display, then the rest of the year in dark storage, to prolong their life.
Climate
Humidity
Humidity is a term for the amount of water vapor in the air, and can refer to any one of several measurements of humidity. Formally, humid air is not "moist air" but a mixture of water vapor and other constituents of air, and humidity is defined in terms of the water content of this mixture,...
can both contribute and a textile’s deterioration. However, excessive dryness may also cause damage, especially to elastic fibers, such as wool
Wool
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, vicuña, alpaca, camel from animals in the camel family, and angora from rabbits....
, which rely on some amount of moisture
Moisture
Humidity is the amount of moisture the air can hold before it rains. Moisture refers to the presence of a liquid, especially water, often in trace amounts...
to maintain their flexibility (Putnam and Finch). Additionally, temperature
Temperature
Temperature is a physical property of matter that quantitatively expresses the common notions of hot and cold. Objects of low temperature are cold, while various degrees of higher temperatures are referred to as warm or hot...
and humidity should be kept as constant as possible; changes in either of these may cause the textile fibers to expand and contract, which, over time, can also cause damage and deterioration to the textile. For this reason, both storage and display areas should be fitted with monitoring equipment
Hygrometer
A hygrometer is an instrument used for measuring the moisture content in the environmental air, or humidity. Most measurement devices usually rely on measurements of some other quantity such as temperature, pressure, mass or a mechanical or electrical change in a substance as moisture is absorbed...
to gauge the temperature and humidity of rooms, display cases, enclosed storage facilities, and work areas.
Ideally, temperature should be kept around 70 degrees Fahrenheit
Fahrenheit
Fahrenheit is the temperature scale proposed in 1724 by, and named after, the German physicist Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit . Within this scale, the freezing of water into ice is defined at 32 degrees, while the boiling point of water is defined to be 212 degrees...
, though some slight fluctuation in either direction is permissible, as long as it occurs gradually . For instance, temperature may be slightly lower in winter to save energy costs, but the change should be effected slowly, so as not to place the fibers under undue stress.
As for humidity, the preservationist or conservator should aim for a relative humidity of 50%, though, as with temperature, some small fluctuation is allowable, as long as it occurs gradually (Mailand). In enclosed display or storage cases, humidity can be somewhat maintained through the use of silica gel
Silica gel
Silica gel is a granular, vitreous, porous form of silica made synthetically from sodium silicate. Despite its name, silica gel is a solid. It is a naturally occurring mineral that is purified and processed into either granular or beaded form...
crystals. These crystals should not be placed in contact with the textiles, but may be placed in breathable muslin bags and hung inside the case to maintain a constant humidity ; they should be monitored periodically, however, to be sure that they are working.
In areas where climate control
HVAC
HVAC refers to technology of indoor or automotive environmental comfort. HVAC system design is a major subdiscipline of mechanical engineering, based on the principles of thermodynamics, fluid mechanics, and heat transfer...
is unavailable (such as in historic buildings), the conservator can still moderate the temperature and relative humidity through use of fans, humidifiers and dehumidifiers, and portable heating or cooling units .
In addition to temperature and humidity, air flow is also a concern for textile preservation. Textiles should never be sealed in plastic or other air-tight casing unless it is part of a treatment or cleaning process. Proper circulation, combined with the suggested humidity, will help to prevent the growth of mold
Mold
Molds are fungi that grow in the form of multicellular filaments called hyphae. Molds are not considered to be microbes but microscopic fungi that grow as single cells called yeasts...
and mildew
Mildew
Mildew refers to certain kinds of molds or fungi.In Old English, it meant honeydew , and later came to mean mildew in the modern sense of mold or fungus....
, which may stain
Stain
A stain is a discoloration that can be clearly distinguished from the surface, material, or medium it is found upon. Stains are caused by the chemical or physical interaction of two dissimilar materials...
or weaken antique textiles .
Pests
Pests are another significant threat to textile collections, as there are a number of creatures which can cause damage to fibres. Among the most common are clothes mothsTineidae
Tineidae is a family of moths in the order Lepidoptera. Collectively, they are known as fungus moths or tineid moths. The family contains considerably more than 3,000 species in over 300 genera. Most of the tineid moths are small or medium-sized, with wings held roofwise over the body at rest...
, carpet beetles, silverfish
Silverfish
Lepisma saccharina, frequently called silverfish, fishmoths, carpet sharks or paramites, are small, wingless insects in the order Thysanura...
, firebrat
Firebrat
The Firebrat is a small insect similar to the Silverfish, both in the order Thysanura....
s and rodents.
Clothes moths are attracted to protein
Protein
Proteins are biochemical compounds consisting of one or more polypeptides typically folded into a globular or fibrous form, facilitating a biological function. A polypeptide is a single linear polymer chain of amino acids bonded together by peptide bonds between the carboxyl and amino groups of...
fibres, and so are especially drawn to silk
Silk
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity...
, wool, and feather
Feather
Feathers are one of the epidermal growths that form the distinctive outer covering, or plumage, on birds and some non-avian theropod dinosaurs. They are considered the most complex integumentary structures found in vertebrates, and indeed a premier example of a complex evolutionary novelty. They...
s. An infestation might be identified through the evidence of white cocoons (or the remnants thereof) on the textiles, or of sighting the insects themselves. They are roughly 8 centimetres long and white in colour .
Like clothes moths, carpet beetles are likewise drawn to proteins, and can be quite destructive. Evidence of an infestation may take of the form of chewed holes, carcasses, or larvae, which appear as small pale worm-like insects .
Silverfish and firebrats are related insects which consume starch
Starch
Starch or amylum is a carbohydrate consisting of a large number of glucose units joined together by glycosidic bonds. This polysaccharide is produced by all green plants as an energy store...
, usually found in sizing or other treatments applied to fabrics, as well as plant-based textiles such as linen
Linen
Linen is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant, Linum usitatissimum. Linen is labor-intensive to manufacture, but when it is made into garments, it is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather....
and cotton
Cotton
Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective capsule, around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus Gossypium. The fiber is almost pure cellulose. The botanical purpose of cotton fiber is to aid in seed dispersal....
. Both are attracted to dark, moist climates, though silverfish prefer cooler temperatures, while firebrats tend towards warmer. Both are about 12 millimetres in length and either light or dark in colouring, depending on which type is present .
Rodent infestations can be identified in the usual ways, such as seeing droppings, nests, or comparatively large chewed areas of textile where they have caused damage.
In all cases, chemical means of pest control
Pest control
Pest control refers to the regulation or management of a species defined as a pest, usually because it is perceived to be detrimental to a person's health, the ecology or the economy.-History:...
should be avoided if possible, not only due to harm to humans who come in contact with them, but because the chemicals may cause damage to the very textiles the conservator is trying to save. For rodents, snap traps
Mousetrap
A mousetrap is a specialized type of animal trap designed primarily to catch mice; however, it may also trap other small animals. Mousetraps are usually set in an indoor location where there is a suspected infestation of rodents. There are various types of mousetrap, each with its own advantages...
may be effective, and if needed, a professional exterminator
Pest control
Pest control refers to the regulation or management of a species defined as a pest, usually because it is perceived to be detrimental to a person's health, the ecology or the economy.-History:...
should be called. Poison baited traps should be avoided, as the rodent could die somewhere inaccessible, and provide a breeding ground for further pests . Also, in the case of a rodent infestation, all access points to the room (such as cracks or holes) through which they might be entering should be located and sealed if possible .
For insect
Insect
Insects are a class of living creatures within the arthropods that have a chitinous exoskeleton, a three-part body , three pairs of jointed legs, compound eyes, and two antennae...
s, keeping clean storage, display, and work environment is the best method of prevention. Also, sticky traps
Insect trap
Insect traps are used to monitor or directly reduce insect populations. They typically use food, visual lures, chemical attractants and pheromones as bait and are installed so that they do not injure other animals or humans or result in residues in foods or feeds. Visual lures use light, bright...
(replaced often) around doors, windows, and display cases may be useful for monitoring the insect population. Furthermore, the population of carnivorous insects, such as spider
Spider
Spiders are air-breathing arthropods that have eight legs, and chelicerae with fangs that inject venom. They are the largest order of arachnids and rank seventh in total species diversity among all other groups of organisms...
s, should be observed. While such insects are not harmful to textiles by themselves, they may indicate another population of insects which are .
If the infestation can be limited to one or a few pieces, the insects may be killed through freezing
Freezing
Freezing or solidification is a phase change in which a liquid turns into a solid when its temperature is lowered below its freezing point. The reverse process is melting....
of the object. The textile should be wrapped in plastic and vacuum-sealed
Vacuum packing
Vacuum packing or vacuum packaging is a method of packaging that removes air from the package prior to sealing. It can involve both rigid and flexible types of packaging...
, then brought to a freezing temperature as quickly as possible, to prevent the insects from adjusting to the cold. The object may be left frozen for several days, but should be brought slowly back up to room temperature to avoid further damage . Note that while this method should kill adults, it may not destroy any eggs that are present.
If chemical means must be employed, it would be best to consult with a professional conservator to be certain that the treatment will not harm the textiles themselves.
Even if no signs of an infestation are present, textiles should still be inspected periodically to be certain that there is no outbreak that has gone unobserved. Additionally, when dealing with a new acquisition which shows signs of insect damage, the specimen should be quarantine
Quarantine
Quarantine is compulsory isolation, typically to contain the spread of something considered dangerous, often but not always disease. The word comes from the Italian quarantena, meaning forty-day period....
d until it can be determined whether the insects are still present before introducing it to the rest of the collection.
Textile instability
In some cases, the textiles are weakened not by outside causes such as light or pests, but by chemical reactionChemical reaction
A chemical reaction is a process that leads to the transformation of one set of chemical substances to another. Chemical reactions can be either spontaneous, requiring no input of energy, or non-spontaneous, typically following the input of some type of energy, such as heat, light or electricity...
s taking place within the fabric itself, such as the oxidation
Redox
Redox reactions describe all chemical reactions in which atoms have their oxidation state changed....
of iron-based mordant
Mordant
A mordant is a substance used to set dyes on fabrics or tissue sections by forming a coordination complex with the dye which then attaches to the fabric or tissue. It may be used for dyeing fabrics, or for intensifying stains in cell or tissue preparations. The term mordant comes from the Latin...
s over time, which can cause darkening and discolouration in the surrounding fibres .
One example which is cited frequently throughout the literature is the case of “shattered silk.” During the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, many silk manufacturers treated their fabrics with metal
Metal
A metal , is an element, compound, or alloy that is a good conductor of both electricity and heat. Metals are usually malleable and shiny, that is they reflect most of incident light...
lic salts (usually containing tin
Tin
Tin is a chemical element with the symbol Sn and atomic number 50. It is a main group metal in group 14 of the periodic table. Tin shows chemical similarity to both neighboring group 14 elements, germanium and lead and has two possible oxidation states, +2 and the slightly more stable +4...
and iron
Iron
Iron is a chemical element with the symbol Fe and atomic number 26. It is a metal in the first transition series. It is the most common element forming the planet Earth as a whole, forming much of Earth's outer and inner core. It is the fourth most common element in the Earth's crust...
) to give them a heavier, more luxurious feel. However, as these fabrics have aged, the metals in the fibres have accelerated their decay and caused them to become extremely brittle. The shredded or “shattered” effect this causes is the reason for the name. In this case, the environment of the textile contributes very little to the deterioration from the metallic salts, though exposure to light may accelerate it even further .
Textile preservationists should be familiar with their collections and the history and provenance
Provenance
Provenance, from the French provenir, "to come from", refers to the chronology of the ownership or location of an historical object. The term was originally mostly used for works of art, but is now used in similar senses in a wide range of fields, including science and computing...
of their pieces. Chemical tests can reveal the types of dyes and mordants used, as well as any other treatments applied to the fabric . Such knowledge can lead to the prevention of further decay by learning which pieces need to be handled with particular care.
Handling
It goes without saying that fragile and/or valuable textiles should be handled with care, and as little as necessary in any given circumstance. However, should handling be necessary, there are precautions which can be taken to ensure the safety of the textile.Because our hands contain oil
Oil
An oil is any substance that is liquid at ambient temperatures and does not mix with water but may mix with other oils and organic solvents. This general definition includes vegetable oils, volatile essential oils, petrochemical oils, and synthetic oils....
s and acid
Acid
An acid is a substance which reacts with a base. Commonly, acids can be identified as tasting sour, reacting with metals such as calcium, and bases like sodium carbonate. Aqueous acids have a pH of less than 7, where an acid of lower pH is typically stronger, and turn blue litmus paper red...
s in the skin
Skin
-Dermis:The dermis is the layer of skin beneath the epidermis that consists of connective tissue and cushions the body from stress and strain. The dermis is tightly connected to the epidermis by a basement membrane. It also harbors many Mechanoreceptors that provide the sense of touch and heat...
, clean cloth gloves should be worn when handling textiles. If gloves are unavailable, then frequent hand-washing should be undertaken to ensure that no damage is caused. For similar reasons, the working, display, and storage areas should be free of food, drink, and cigarette smoke, which can also stain or damage the fabric. Finally, to avoid ink stains, only pencils should be used for writing or sketching in the work space.
To avoid snags and pulls, remove any jewelry that may catch in the fabric’s weave, and wear clothing free of large buckles or other objects which may snag the textile. Long hair should also be tied back to allow a clear view of the working area, even when the head is bent over the table.
When working with the textiles, it should be placed on a clean, flat surface which is larger than the textile itself, so that the whole piece is supported evenly. Although it is supported, never place anything on top of the textile while it is in the flat position.
When moving the textile, it is important to maintain the flat, even support of the work space. If the piece is small enough (a handkerchief
Handkerchief
A handkerchief , also called a handkercher or hanky, is a form of a kerchief, typically a hemmed square of thin fabric that can be carried in the pocket or purse, and which is intended for personal hygiene purposes such as wiping one's hands or face, or blowing one's nose...
or sampler
Sampler (needlework)
A sampler is a piece of embroidery produced as a demonstration or test of skill in needlework. It often includes the alphabet, figures, motifs, decorative borders and sometimes the name of the person who embroidered it and the date...
, for instance), it may be placed on an acid-free board
Acid-free paper
Acid-free paper is paper that has a neutral or basic pH . It can be made from any cellulose fiber as long as the active acid pulp is eliminated during processing. It is also lignin and sulfur free...
or similar support and carried as if on a tray. If the piece is too large for this (a carpet or tapestry, for example), the piece may be rolled around an acid-free tube and carried by two people to its new location.
Finally, antique costume
Costume
The term costume can refer to wardrobe and dress in general, or to the distinctive style of dress of a particular people, class, or period. Costume may also refer to the artistic arrangement of accessories in a picture, statue, poem, or play, appropriate to the time, place, or other circumstances...
s and clothing should never be worn, as the mere process of putting the clothes on and taking them off will cause damage. Additionally, the model may not fit the costume precisely (remember that clothing was for a long time made to fit a specific person, not mass-produced in approximate sizes), causing strain where there should be none and slack where there likewise should be none.
Vacuuming
One of the safest and easiest ways to clean textiles is to vacuumVacuum cleaner
A vacuum cleaner, commonly referred to as a "vacuum," is a device that uses an air pump to create a partial vacuum to suck up dust and dirt, usually from floors, and optionally from other surfaces as well. The dirt is collected by either a dustbag or a cyclone for later disposal...
them. The fabric is placed on a clean, flat work surface. If the specimen is particularly delicate, or simply as a precaution, a fibreglass screen
Window screen
A window screen, insect screen or bug screen is a metal wire, fiberglass, or other synthetic fiber mesh, stretched in a frame of wood or metal, designed to cover the opening of an open window. Its primary purpose is to keep leaves, debris, insects, birds, and other animals from entering a building...
edged with twill tape
Twill tape
Twill tape is a flat twill-woven ribbon of cotton, linen, polyester, or wool.Twill tape is available in various widths, generally up to 1 inch , and a wide range of colors....
may be placed over the textile. The screen allows dirt and dust
Dust
Dust consists of particles in the atmosphere that arise from various sources such as soil dust lifted up by wind , volcanic eruptions, and pollution...
to pass through, but prevents individual threads from being pulled loose or unravelled further by the suction. Using a vacuum attachment and the lowest power setting, move the suction over the screen until the entire area has been cleaned. If needed, move the screen to a new area and begin again. Always remember to vacuum both sides of the textile, as dirt may filter through to the other side . Hanging textiles will need to be vacuumed less often than horizontal pieces, as there are fewer places where dust can collect.
Wet cleaning
One of the key standards of preservation is that of reversibility: anything done to preserve a piece should be able to be undone with minimal damage to the piece itself. Because wet cleaning is a chemical process, it is not reversible, and so should be used only when absolutely necessary.Before cleaning a textile, certain questions should be asked to determine both the best treatment for that particular combination of textile and soil, and to ascertain whether the piece is able to be cleaned, or may sustain damage during the process.
What is the chemical composition of the textile? In other words, does it have a high acid content? Where there chemicals used in its production that might contribute to how it reacts to water? Or how it may react to cleaning chemicals?
What are the characteristics of the fibres? For instance, cotton and linen, being plant fibers, are both stronger wet than dry, and so may be able to withstand a more mechanical stress than something like silk. Wool can absorb large amounts of water, but mats if washed in high temperatures. All silks become brittle with age, but weighted silks (see Textile Instability above) decay more quickly, and thus must be handled with extreme care . Additionally, some silks, once wet, can be permanently spotted. Learn the basic characteristics of the type of fibres you have, and how they have been treated before undertaking any kind of cleaning.
What colourant
Colourant
A colourant or colorant is something added to something else to cause a change in colour. Colourants can be:* Dyes* Pigments* Biological pigments* Inks* Paint* Coloured chemicals...
s have been used, and how will they react to cleaning? This can apply not only to dye
Dye
A dye is a colored substance that has an affinity to the substrate to which it is being applied. The dye is generally applied in an aqueous solution, and requires a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye on the fiber....
s but to mordants as well. Different parts of the world may have different dye processes, so here is where knowledge of when and where a textile originated, as well as a working knowledge of chemistry
Chemistry
Chemistry is the science of matter, especially its chemical reactions, but also its composition, structure and properties. Chemistry is concerned with atoms and their interactions with other atoms, and particularly with the properties of chemical bonds....
, can come in handy. If in doubt as to the wash ability of a dye, apply a drop or two of water to an inconspicuous place and blot with a clean white cloth. If the dye transfers to the cloth, even in small amounts, the textile should not be washed .
Are there finishes or surface treatments that must be preserved? For example, is the fabric paint
Paint
Paint is any liquid, liquefiable, or mastic composition which after application to a substrate in a thin layer is converted to an opaque solid film. One may also consider the digital mimicry thereof...
ed? If so, it should never be washed; some other cleaning method should be used .
What kinds of soils are there? The older the stain, the more difficult it is to remove. After a certain point, it may be best to leave the stain or soil, or remove it only partially, in order to preserve the rest of the piece. Additionally, soils which may not be detectable to the naked eye might be present in the textile; flags, for instance, may be highly acidic due to long exposure to air pollutants
Air pollution
Air pollution is the introduction of chemicals, particulate matter, or biological materials that cause harm or discomfort to humans or other living organisms, or cause damage to the natural environment or built environment, into the atmosphere....
, and should be treated by a professional conservator .
What cleaner is safest and most effective? Commercial detergent
Detergent
A detergent is a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants with "cleaning properties in dilute solutions." In common usage, "detergent" refers to alkylbenzenesulfonates, a family of compounds that are similar to soap but are less affected by hard water...
s should never be used on antique textiles, whatever their claims of gentleness: the chemicals used in most clothes detergents are too harsh for old fibres to withstand. A wide range of speciality detergents are available from conservation suppliers, though most sources suggest Ivory dish soap
Ivory (soap)
The name "Ivory" refers to a series of products created by the Procter & Gamble Company , including varieties of a white and mildly fragranced bar soap, that became famous for its pure content and for floating in water. Over the years, the bar soap has been altered into other varieties...
as a last-minute substitution if needed. Never use chemical spot cleaners, as they are likewise too harsh for old fibres to tolerate. This is especially important for pieces in situ
In situ
In situ is a Latin phrase which translated literally as 'In position'. It is used in many different contexts.-Aerospace:In the aerospace industry, equipment on board aircraft must be tested in situ, or in place, to confirm everything functions properly as a system. Individually, each piece may...
, as this may endanger other nearby pieces as well (the wooden part of an upholstered piece of furniture, for instance) .
What additives and cleaning aids are needed? This can include physical supplies (water
Water
Water is a chemical substance with the chemical formula H2O. A water molecule contains one oxygen and two hydrogen atoms connected by covalent bonds. Water is a liquid at ambient conditions, but it often co-exists on Earth with its solid state, ice, and gaseous state . Water also exists in a...
, screens, a vacuum cleaner), as well as chemical (water softener
Water softening
Water softening is the reduction of the concentration of calcium, magnesium, and certain other metal cations in hard water. These "hardness ions" can cause a variety of undesired effects including interfering with the action of soaps, the build up of limescale, which can foul plumbing, and...
, cleaning agents, etc.).
How long can the specimen be exposed to the cleaner? Prolonged exposure may cause additional damage to the fibres.
What mechanical action can be used? The older and more fragile a textile, the less movement it will be able to tolerate during the cleaning process, so this should be considered before undertaking a cleaning.
Once the best cleaning process has been determined, the piece should be prepared for washing
Washing
Washing is one way of cleaning, namely with water and often some kind of soap or detergent. Washing is an essential part of good hygiene and health....
. Usually, this involves vacuuming to remove any surface dirt. Linings
Lining (sewing)
In sewing and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material inserted into clothing, hats, luggage, curtains, handbags and similar items....
and backing should also be removed, vacuumed, and washed separately. This is not only to prevent colour bleeding, but to avoid trapping dirt between the layers, which may cause discolouration from the inside. Additionally, different fibres react differently to cleaning, and fabrics may shrink or stretch, which, if still attached together, may cause rippling and distortion
Distortion
A distortion is the alteration of the original shape of an object, image, sound, waveform or other form of information or representation. Distortion is usually unwanted, and often many methods are employed to minimize it in practice...
in the lining and outer layer of the textile .
As with moving or working with dry pieces, the textile should be washed in a flat, fully supported position. Usually this is achieved through the use of screens like the ones used in vacuuming, though these may be supported in a frame of some kind for added stability. The textile should be sandwiched between two screens. If the piece is particularly delicate or fragile, it may be wrapped in netting
Net (textile)
Net or netting is any textile in which the warp and weft yarns are looped or knotted at their intersections, resulting in a fabric with large open spaces between the yarns....
, then placed between the screens .
The cleaning solution
Solution
In chemistry, a solution is a homogeneous mixture composed of only one phase. In such a mixture, a solute is dissolved in another substance, known as a solvent. The solvent does the dissolving.- Types of solutions :...
should be prepared using distilled water
Distilled water
Distilled water is water that has many of its impurities removed through distillation. Distillation involves boiling the water and then condensing the steam into a clean container.-History:...
. If that is unavailable, softened water may be substituted. The main concern is to avoid hard water
Hard water
Hard water is water that has high mineral content . Hard water has high concentrations of Ca2+ and Mg2+ ions. Hard water is generally not harmful to one's health but can pose serious problems in industrial settings, where water hardness is monitored to avoid costly breakdowns in boilers, cooling...
, which will leave deposits of mineral
Mineral
A mineral is a naturally occurring solid chemical substance formed through biogeochemical processes, having characteristic chemical composition, highly ordered atomic structure, and specific physical properties. By comparison, a rock is an aggregate of minerals and/or mineraloids and does not...
s in the fibres . The solution should be placed in a container large enough for the textile to lie flat in. For large pieces, it may be necessary to construct a temporary basin outside or in a large room: Putnam and Finch suggest using boards or bricks to constrict a frame, then lining it with a large piece of plastic
Plastic
A plastic material is any of a wide range of synthetic or semi-synthetic organic solids used in the manufacture of industrial products. Plastics are typically polymers of high molecular mass, and may contain other substances to improve performance and/or reduce production costs...
, weighted on the sides, and strong enough to support the water that will be poured into it. If a smaller basin is used, it should be of ceramic
Ceramic
A ceramic is an inorganic, nonmetallic solid prepared by the action of heat and subsequent cooling. Ceramic materials may have a crystalline or partly crystalline structure, or may be amorphous...
, stainless steel
Stainless steel
In metallurgy, stainless steel, also known as inox steel or inox from French "inoxydable", is defined as a steel alloy with a minimum of 10.5 or 11% chromium content by mass....
or a stable plastic.
The screen-encased textile is lowered into the solution. The textile can then be washed by pressing a soft sponge directly down onto the fibres. DO NOT RUB the sponge, as this will cause unnecessary abrasion
Abrasion (mechanical)
Abrasion is the process of scuffing, scratching, wearing down, marring, or rubbing away. It can be intentionally imposed in a controlled process using an abrasive...
at a moment when the textile is already weak from the water . The textile may be submerged for no more than an hour, and should be rinsed at least four times after it is cleaned (Mailand). The final rinse should always be with distilled water. The textile should be placed to dry on a flat surface or screen, in a well-ventilated room away from heat.
Dry cleaning
Dry cleaningDry cleaning
Dry cleaning is any cleaning process for clothing and textiles using a chemical solvent other than water. The solvent used is typically tetrachloroethylene , abbreviated "perc" in the industry and "dry-cleaning fluid" by the public...
is generally only used for oil stains, as it is a very stressful process of the textile. Commercial dry cleaners should never be used, as the chemicals used in the process are too strong for old fabrics to withstand without damage. If dry cleaning is absolutely necessary, consult a professional conservator .
Steaming and ironing
SteamSteam
Steam is the technical term for water vapor, the gaseous phase of water, which is formed when water boils. In common language it is often used to refer to the visible mist of water droplets formed as this water vapor condenses in the presence of cooler air...
ing and ironing
Ironing
Ironing is the use of a heated tool to remove wrinkles from fabric. The heating is commonly done to a temperature of 180-220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric. Ironing works by loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules in the fibers of the material...
textiles should be done with caution, as the heat may affect the viability of the fibres. More importantly, the fabric should always be cleaned before either of these processes is used, since heat may trap dirt and stains in the fibres to such an extent that the stain becomes permanent. Always use the lowest setting for either of these procedures . If a garment relies on folds to maintain its proper shape (such as pleat
Pleat
A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference....
s), it may be better to finger-press the folds into place when the garment is damp and allow it to dry that way, rather than subject it to the added stress of ironing .
Storage
As stated in the Climate section, the best storage environment for textiles is clean, dark, cool, and moderately dry, with a constant temperature and relative humidity. Ideally, there should be no strain on any one particular area of cloth. There are three basic kinds of storage for textiles, and the choice of which to use relies on the type of textile and the space available. The three types are: Flat, Rolled, and Hanging storage.Flat storage
Flat storage is the best option for exceptionally fragile pieces because it provides the most even support for the fibres. Enamelled metal shelves or drawers may be used, or acid-free boxes. The textiles may be placed in the boxes or drawers flat, if at all possible. If folding becomes necessary, acid-free tissue paper should be used to form soft rolls around which the folds can be shaped, to prevent creases from forming. Even so, folded textiles should be removed and refolded differently every few months, to allow even wear on the piece .Rolled storage
For exceptionally large textiles, such as tapestries, draperies, carpets and quilts, rolled storage is the best option. Like the upholstery section of a fabric store, the rolled storage area should consist of racks, each containing horizontally suspended acid-free or fabric-covered tubes around which the fabrics can be wrapped, being sure to line the selvageSelvage
The selvage or selvedge is the term for the self-finished edges of fabric. The selvages keep the fabric from unraveling or fraying. The selvages are a result of how the fabric is created...
s up with the edges of the roll. Textiles with a decorative side (such as velvet
Velvet
Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed,with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive feel.The word 'velvety' is used as an adjective to mean -"smooth like velvet".-Composition:...
s and embroidered
Embroidery
Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins....
textiles) should always be rolled with the decorative side facing out. This is because the inner layer, especially if there is a lining, may crease, stretch, or fold while it is on the roll. The rolled textiles can then be covered with a muslin
Muslin
Muslin |sewing patterns]], such as for clothing, curtains, or upholstery. Because air moves easily through muslin, muslin clothing is suitable for hot, dry climates.- Etymology and history :...
wrapper to protect it from dust .
Hanging costume storage
For costumes, flat storage may create more problems than it solves, since it is impossible to store them in this manner without forming folds and creases. Therefore, unless the costume is so weakened that it cannot support its own weight, hanging storage is perhaps the best option. Costumes which are unusually heavy (heavily beadBead
A bead is a small, decorative object that is usually pierced for threading or stringing. Beads range in size from under to over in diameter. A pair of beads made from Nassarius sea snail shells, approximately 100,000 years old, are thought to be the earliest known examples of jewellery. Beadwork...
ed gown
Gown
A gown is a loose outer garment from knee- to full-length worn by men and women in Europe from the early Middle Ages to the 17th century ; later, gown was applied to any woman's garment consisting of a bodice and attached skirt.A long, loosely-fitted gown called a Banyan was worn by men in the 18th...
s, for instance), or those whose fabric may distort easily (such as some stretch fabric
Stretch fabric
Stretch fabric is a term that refers to synthetic fabrics which stretch. Stretch fabrics are split into two categories: 2-way stretch and 4-way stretch....
s, or those cut on the bias) should also be stored in flat storage. Garments suitable for hanging should be placed on plastic hangers which have been padded to mimic the shape of human shoulders, and covered with a plastic or cloth cover with an open bottom to allow air circulation while keeping the costume clean . Wooden hangers may have a high acid content, which may cause discolouration or decay to the costume. Likewise, metal hangers do not provide sufficient support, and may lead to distortion of the garments’ shoulders. Therefore, both forms of hanging should be avoided .
If sufficient space is available, selected garments may be stored on dummies
Mannequin
A mannequin is an often articulated doll used by artists, tailors, dressmakers, and others especially to display or fit clothing...
to better keep their shape. If this method is used, dummies should be fitted out with the proper undergarment
Undergarment
Undergarments or underwear are clothes worn under other clothes, often next to the skin. They keep outer garments from being soiled by bodily secretions and discharges, shape the body, and provide support for parts of it. In cold weather, long underwear is sometimes worn to provide additional...
s, such as bustle
Bustle
A bustle is a type of framework used to expand the fullness or support the drapery of the back of a woman's dress, occurring predominantly in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles were worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. Heavy fabric tended to...
s or panniers
Pannier (clothing)
Panniers or side hoops are women's undergarments worn in the 18th century to extend the width of the skirts at the side while leaving the front and back relatively flat...
, to provide adequate support for the garments as they were intended to be worn. However, while the main concern of a display may be to make the garment look attractive on the dummy, storage need have no such considerations. Loose, unsupported parts of the garment (such as sleeves or shirts) should be loosely stuffed with acid-free tissue paper to provide additional support .
Costume accessories
Fashion accessory
Fashion accessories are decorative items that supplement and complement clothes, such as jewelery, gloves, handbags, hats, belts, scarves, wigs, watches, sunglasses, pins, stockings, bow ties, hand fans, leg warmers, leggings, neckties, suspenders, and tights....
can be stored in a variety of ways. Generally, bonnets and gloves should be loosely stuffed with acid-free tissue and placed in archival-quality boxes or under cover. Fans and parasols may be stored in half-open positions, which provide the least amount of stress on the fabrics .
Display
The conditions required for display of textiles are largely those that have already been discussed in the Storage and Environment sections. Dry, cool, and dark, are to be preferred, with clean surroundings and frequent checks to be certain that the textiles are remaining in good condition. Lighting should be kept to a minimum, and textiles should be rotated through display, so that each is only exposed to light for a few months at a time before being returned to darkness or taken for cleaning/conservation work. Textiles should be vacuumed before and after display.Works cited
- Fahey, Mary (2007). “The Care and Preservation of Antique Textiles and Costumes.” Henry Ford Museum. http://www.thehenryford.org/explore/artifacts/textile.asp
- Finch, Karen, and Greta Putnam (1977). Caring for Textiles. London: Barrie & Jenkins.
- Mailand, Harold F (1978). Considerations for the Care of Textiles and Costumes: A Handbook for the Non-Specialist. Indianapolis, IN: Indianapolis Museum of Art.
- Mailand, Harold F. and Dorothy Stiles Alig (1999). Preserving Textiles: A Guide for the Non- Specialist. Inaianapolis, IN: Indianapolis Museum of Art.
- Rice, James W. (1972). “Principals of Fragile Textile Cleaning.” Textile Conservation. Jentina E. Leene, ed. New York: Smithsonian Institution. 32-72.
- Schweppe, Helmut (1984). “Identification of Dyes in Historic Textile Materials.” Historic Textile and Paper Materials: Conservation and Characterization. Howard L. Needles and S. Haig Zeronian, ed. United States: American Chemical Society. 153-175.
Further reading
- Historic Textiles: Conservation and Characterization. Ed. by Howard L. Needles and S. Haig Zeronian. United States: American Chemical Society. 1984.
- Historic Textiles, Papers, and Polymers in Museums. Ed. by Jeanette M. Cardamone and Mary T. Baker. United States: American Chemical Society. 2001.
- Textile Conservation. Jentina E. Leene, ed. New York: Smithsonian Institution. 1972.
- Textile Symposium in Honor of Pat Reeves. Catherine C. McLean and Patricia Connell, ed. Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art. 1986.
External links
Textile conservation video files
- Materials You Need - (Part 1 of 6) Conservation and Preservation of Heirloom Textiles
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBo2G18y74A&feature=relmfu
- How to Make a Padded Hanger - (Part 2 of 6) Conservation and Preservation of Heirloom Textiles
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WD-kk-mxvs&feature=relmfu
- Storing Costumes in Boxes - (Part 3 of 6) Conservation and Preservation of Heirloom
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4emRz2k296M&feature=relmfu
- Storage of Flat Textiles in Boxes - (Part 4 of 6) Conservation and Preservation of Heirloom Textiles
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYI5ExSdUHs&feature=relmfu
- Storage of Quilts and Coverlets - (Part 5 of 6) Conservation and Preservation of Heirloom Textiles
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PZTx_MUBgw&feature=relmfu
- Rolling Textiles on a Tube - (Part 6 of 6) Conservation and Preservation of Heirloom Textiles
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiJz7-mzzxM&feature=relmfu